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40 CAPITAL DESTINATION What Missoni recognised was that in recent years – perhaps since becoming home to the nation’s new parliament at the Millennium – Edinburgh has quietly emerged as one of Europe’s coolest and most creative communities. Designers, writers, chefs, painters and performers attracted or inspired by the unique annual Festival – and its attendant throngs of international visitors – have all set up shop here. Accommodation has always been among the best in Scotland, with stately establishments such as The Balmoral offering the finest of everything. (It was here JK Rowling wrote the last lines of her final Harry Potter book, a far cry from the modest coffee shop just off the Royal Mile where she wrote the first instalment.) But along with Missoni, a swathe of modern, high-end luxury hotels have opened, including the very grand recently refurbished Waldorf Caledonian which sits at the bottom of Princes Street, beneath the castle. Then there are smaller, more bespoke restaurants-with-rooms such as 21212, a Michelin-starred eatery just off Leith Walk, and the famed Witchery at the top of the Royal Mile. Scottish food, once a bit of an international joke, is now widely regarded as first-class. The country has a superb larder of fresh wild produce such as salmon and venison from the Highlands, fruit from the farmlands of Fife and Perthshire, the finest marbled beef from the borders and Aberdeenshire, and seafood that is in daily demand from restaurants around the world. Any journey around Scotland – particularly in autumn when the land and seascapes are at their most vivid – is defined by the cuisine that greets visitors after superb views of lochs, hills and castles.Edinburgh itself offers the cream of the crop with five Michelin-star restaurants – more than any other UK city outside of London, and all within a few square miles. Tom Kitchin, with his philosophy of “from nature to plate”, opened his restaurant in 2006 in Leith – a former scruffy, dockland warehouse area that has now been gentrified and transformed into a focus for food and nightlife. Six months after opening, at the age of 29, he became the youngest Scottish chef-proprietor to achieve a star. As well as the Michelin stable there are exciting menus elsewhere from the likes of Rhubarb at Prestonfield House, the Indian NOVEMber <strong>2012</strong> restaurant Mithas and the Italian foodie emporium Valvona and Crolla, all catering to an increasingly sophisticated, urban population eager to experiment. Fine Scottish products also extend well beyond the table. Fabrics such as cashmere, Harris Tweed and waxed cotton, once the preserve of landed gentry enjoying a spot of grouse shooting, have been adopted by a new generation of urban designers who appreciate their careful, traditional and small-scale artisanal production. Kilts have also been propelled into a modern vibe thanks to designers such as Edinburgh’s Howie Nicholsby at 21st Century Kilts. He emerged on the catwalk at the 1999 London Men’s Fashion Week, aspiring “to give men throughout the world a realistic alternative to trousers”. Today a free, private viewing and fitting of his kilts can be arranged by a simple call to Howie himself who runs the shop in person. Catherine Aitken, a former film producer whose second career started when she knocked up bags to promote a movie at the Cannes Film Festival, makes handbags and courier bags from traditional Scottish fabrics. But far from being the tough practical baggage that would once have carried home a salmon or a brace of FLY TO edinburgh six times weekly. brusselsairlines.com
4CORNERS IMAGES; GERRYOLEARY.COM; SHANNON TOFTS Above, clockwise from top left: Hotel Missoni; cute designs at Curiouser and Curiouser; the arcane Rosslyn Chapel, which featured in The Da Vinci Code; Harvey Nichols on St Andrew Square; the Royal Yacht Britannia; Below: a fi gure by Craig Mitchell from Coburg House Art Studio rabbits, her creations ons incorporate bright colours, urban styling and have movie-inspired ovie-inspired names such as the Hepburn rn Messenger or the Missy Rutherford. Aitken can be found und working alongside a swathe of other artists at the Coburg House Art Studios in Leith. Browse their funky designer er wear and artworks at Concrete Wardrobe obe – a unique emporium of the best est of Scottish need-to-know edinburgh ■ ACCOMMODATION Hotel Missoni 1 George IV Bridge hotelmissoni.com The Balmoral 1 Princes Street thebalmoralhotel.com The Waldorf Caledonian Princes Street waldorfastoria3.hilton.com The Witchery Castlehill, Royal Mile thewitchery.com ■ RESTAURANTS The Kitchin 78 Commercial Quay, Leith thekitchin.com Rhubarb Prestonfield House, Priestfield Road prestonfi eld.com Mithas 7 Dock Place, Leith mithas.co.uk Valvona and Crolla 19 Elm Row valvonacrolla.co.uk 21212 3 Royal Terrace 21212restaurant.co.uk ■ SHOPPING Harvey Nichols 30-34 St Andrew Square/Multrees Walk harveynichols.com Catherine Aitken 15 Coburg Street catherineaitken.com Coburg House Art Studios 15 Coburg Street coburghouse artstudios.wordpress.com Concrete Wardrobe 50A Broughton Street concretewardrobe.com Curiouser and Curiouser 93 Broughton Street curiouserandcuriouser.com 21st Century Kilts 48 Thistle Street 21stcenturykilts.com ■ TOURING WL Sleigh Ltd sleigh.co.uk The Palace of Holyroodhouse Canongate, The Royal Mile royalcollection.org.uk; entry £10.75 (€13.50) Royal Roy Yacht Britannia Ocean Oce Terminal, Leith royalyachtbritannia.co.uk; roya entr entry £11.75 (€14.50) Rosslyn Ros Chapel Roslin, Ros Midlothian, rosslynchapel. org. org.uk; entry £9 (€11) Glenkinchie Glen Distillery Pencaitland, Tranent, Tran East Lothian discovering-distilleries.com/glen disc kinc kinchie; tour and tasting £6 (€7.50)
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