116 | DESTINATION GUIDES Athens Greece DIALLING CODE +30 CURRENCY € FROM THE AIRPORT Visit the Europcar desk on arrival for special easyJet infl ight rates. Holiday Taxis (easyJet.holiday taxis.com) take you from home to the airport, then city or destination. The fare is about €35 to the centre. Proastiako and Metro line trains UP TO €50 Respentza (24 Evmolpidon Street, Gazi, tel: 210 341 4140) A smart fi sh restaurant in hip Gazi with a rooftop conservatory to show off amazing Acropolis views all the year round. EXCLUSIVE Nabucco (15 Themidos Street, Ekali, tel: 210 813 2020) Hidden amid a forest of pines, this minimalist restaurant is the venue of choice for executive types. The driving force is chef Dimitris Dimitriadis with his accomplished selection of post-modernist Mediterranean fare. AFTER DARK LOW KEY Rockwood (2 Vassilisis Irakliou Street, Museum, tel: 210 823 0337) A classic American-style bar with a southern feel. It offers a selection of draft beers, bar food and has mainstream rock sounds playing in the background. LIVE MUSIC Half Note Jazz Club (17 Trivonianou Street, Mets, tel: 210 921 3360) This is a mecca for lovers of jazz, ethnic and world music. The line up is full of international stars and Mondays see half price entry. LATE & LIVELY Mad (53 Persefonis Street, Gazi, tel: 210 346 2027) The haven of the indie rock scene in Athens, now at a brand new venue, expect a reliably good night with frequent live gigs. THIS MONTH SHOP Open-air street markets are a major feature of Athens life and worth investigating. Every district has its own fruit and veg market, where you can also pick up unlikely bargains such as clothes, jewellery and other sundry items. SEE Retrospective exhibitions of the artists Mark Amerika (Unrealtime) and Iran’s Y.Z. Kami (Beyond Silence) are on show at the National Museum of Contemporary Art throughout this month (EMST, 17–19 Rigillis Street, emst.gr). GO Apart from festive decorations and lights, the city of Athens lays on a host of free events and activities for young and old during the holiday season, including an ice skating rink by Zappion. ESCAPE The ski resort on Mount Parnassus makes a great day trip or weekend break, just two hours away from Athens. Be sure to stop at the nearby scenic village of Arachova for some après-ski refreshments. TAXI TAXI depart every 15–30 minutes for the city centre. Tickets: €6 single; €10 return. BON APPETIT UP TO €15 Simply Burgers (38 Antinoros Street, Pagrati, tel: 210 729 0007) A successful burger chain launched by a Greek-American duo seeking to recreate the authentic ‘Stateside’ experience. UP TO €30 Archeon Gefsis (22 Kodratou Street, Karaiskaki Square, tel: 210 523 9661) Chow down like Socrates and Plato in this themed restaurant, which reconstructs scrumptious dishes of antiquity recreated after much careful research of ancient texts. NO WAY! Despite the huge tree that the Athens city hall erects in Syntagma Square each year, Christmas trees are actually very new to the country, the fi rst arriving in 1833 with the newly installed Bavarian monarchy. Eva Webster Barcelona Spain DIALLING CODE +34 CURRENCY € FROM THE AIRPORT Visit the Europcar desk on arrival for special easyJet infl ight rates. Holiday Taxis (easyJet.holiday taxis.com) take you from home to the airport, then city or destination. A ride to the centre costs €20–€25. The Aerobus stops every six to 15 minutes and heads to Plaça Catalunya. BON APPETIT UP TO €15 Santa Marta (59 Grau i Torras) Sit by the beach and enjoy a tasty Italian salad, sandwich or pasta of the day at Santa Marta. UP TO €30 El Jardí (56 Carrer de l’Hospital, tel: 93 329 1550) Set in the verdant courtyard of the El Antic Hospital Santa Creu, El Jardí is a true oasis. Dine on Mediterranean fusion food and wash down with a delicious mojito. UP TO €50 Big Fish (9 Comercial, tel: 93 268 1728) As the name suggests, this trendy yet cosy restaurant nestled away in the back streets of El Born only serves fi sh, from sushi to the fresh catch of the day. Try the grilled Palomós prawns. AFTER DARK LOW KEY Bar Zim (20 Carrer Daguería) This pint-sized bar is the brainchild of a local cheese trader, whose shop is next door. It offers a range of great wines and masses of Spanish cheese. Open 6pm–10pm daily. LIVE MUSIC Palau de la Música Catalana (4–6 Carrer Palau de la Música, tel: 90 244 2882) The city’s concert hall has a packed programme of classical music this month. On 22 December, tenor Josep Carreras stars in the Christmas concert. LATE & LIVELY Jamsonik (116 Las Ramblas) The liveliest watering hole on Las EXCLUSIVE RESTAURANT Evo (144 Gran Vía, tel: 93 413 5030) Michelin-starred chef Santi Santamaría’s restaurant is located in a sci-fi pod. Try the nine-dish tasting menu, which includes baby squid with white asparagus, while enjoying the jaw-dropping view. Ramblas offers budgetprice cocktails to a young crowd, while DJs keep the mood buzzing. THIS MONTH SHOP From 1 December the streets around the cathedral are taken over with the Fira Santa Llúcia, the city’s Christmas market. Pick up beautiful craft items and unique decorations for your tree back home. SEE In December a giant nativity scene is built outside the city hall on Plaça Sant Jaume. A different artist, or group of artists, is called upon each year to design the phenomenon, resulting in a range of works from traditional to highly conceptual versions. GO Remind yourself of the true meaning of Christmas by visiting the city’s ancient churches. The oldest is Sant Pau del Camp, a Romanesque jewel, open Monday–Friday (101 Sant Pau). ESCAPE Take a walk in the woods at Collserola Natural Park. Hop off the train at Baixador de Vallvidrera (a 20minute ride) where there are picnic spots and sign-posted paths. NO WAY! Caganers, squatting, red-capped peasants shown ‘fertilising’ the ground, are regular nativity scene fi gurines. They’re supposedly a gesture inspired by Catalans’ innate connection to the earth. Suzanne Wales
Switzerland | July 17 – 24, 2010
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