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Jersey<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk on arrival<br />

for special easyJet<br />

infl ight rates.<br />

Holiday Taxis<br />

(easyJet.holiday<br />

taxis.com) take you from<br />

home to the airport, then<br />

city or destination.<br />

The journey to<br />

St Helier costs<br />

Authentic Indian and<br />

Bangladeshi dishes<br />

such as syleti singla and<br />

malai kufta are on<br />

the menu at this<br />

fantastic restaurant.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Tassili<br />

(Esplanade, St Helier,<br />

tel: 01534 722 301)<br />

Part of the luxurious<br />

Grand Hotel, Tassili<br />

uses fresh, local<br />

ingredients in a range<br />

of imaginative dishes<br />

created by head chef<br />

Richard Allen. Try the<br />

highly recommended<br />

tasting menu, which<br />

includes foie gras parfait,<br />

langoustine tortellini,<br />

roast loin of venison<br />

and caramelised<br />

Armagnac tart.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The<br />

Café Bar (Liberation<br />

Square, St Helier,<br />

tel: 01534 880 110)<br />

Situated in the Pomme<br />

d’Or Hotel and adjacent<br />

to Liberation Square,<br />

The Café Bar offers<br />

meals and snacks<br />

all day, plus a tempting<br />

range of early<br />

evening cocktails.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Roberto’s (Savoy<br />

Hotel, St Helier, tel:<br />

01534 727 521) Newly<br />

refurbished, modern<br />

jazz bar Roberto’s<br />

features live jazz in<br />

authentic surroundings.<br />

Fridays see big bands<br />

and talents, in the<br />

week it’s a bit more<br />

chilled out.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Watersplash<br />

(La Grande Route des<br />

Mielles, tel: 01534 482<br />

885) A surfers’ haunt<br />

by day and clubbers’<br />

paradise by night,<br />

“Splash” is out of town<br />

but attracts the crowds.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP From designer<br />

to high street, fi nd every<br />

fashion brand you need<br />

under one roof, in the<br />

refurbished fi rst fl oor of<br />

the 170-year-old Voisin<br />

department store. Try a<br />

multitude of Christmas<br />

frocks, before picking<br />

your favourite (9<br />

King Street).<br />

SEE The Christmas<br />

festival in the streets<br />

of St Helier, La Fête dé<br />

Noué features street<br />

markets, a Christmas<br />

parade, open-air carol<br />

concerts and night-time<br />

shopping all under<br />

a canopy of bright<br />

lights. Head down<br />

before 20 December to<br />

get a taste of Christmas<br />

on the island.<br />

GO Within a couple<br />

of hundred metres of<br />

Liberation Square, you<br />

will fi nd four museums<br />

and at least half a dozen<br />

restaurants and pubs to<br />

hide away from the cold.<br />

ESCAPE An hour<br />

away by ferry, St Peter’s<br />

Port in Guernsey is<br />

particularly attractive<br />

around Christmas.<br />

The narrow cobbled<br />

streets are beautifully<br />

decorated and there’s<br />

a market brimming with<br />

Christmas spirit.<br />

TAXI TAXI<br />

about £16.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Murray’s<br />

(La Neuve Route,<br />

St Aubin, tel: 01534<br />

747 963) An all-day<br />

restaurant and café,<br />

Murray’s offers<br />

a tasty three-course<br />

menu for just £10 and<br />

the delicious pizzas<br />

and pasta are freshly<br />

made on the premises<br />

every day.<br />

UP TO €30 Dix-Neuf<br />

(19 Halkett Place, St<br />

Helier, tel: 01534 724<br />

065) This brasserie and<br />

bar is ideally situated<br />

in the centre of town.<br />

The Continental-style<br />

menu includes dishes<br />

like tempting ovenbaked<br />

salmon.<br />

UP TO €50 Café<br />

Spice (53 Kensington<br />

Place, St Helier, tel:<br />

01534 737 377)<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Shell Garden in<br />

St Brelade is the<br />

world’s largest garden<br />

made of shells, boasting<br />

more than one million<br />

delicate shells.<br />

Peter Body<br />

Krakow<br />

Poland<br />

DIALLING CODE +48<br />

CURRENCY Zloty (PLN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk on arrival<br />

for special easyJet<br />

infl ight rates.<br />

Holiday Taxis<br />

(easyJet.holiday<br />

taxis.com) take you from<br />

home to the airport, then<br />

city or destination.<br />

A taxi costs<br />

about PLN80 to<br />

the city centre.<br />

The 208 goes to<br />

Central station in<br />

about 35 minutes, while<br />

the 292 goes to the Old<br />

Town. Tickets: PLN2.50.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 U Babci<br />

Maliny (17 Ulica<br />

Slawkowska, tel: 012<br />

422 7601) Expect great<br />

cuisine based on the<br />

recipes of dear old Babci<br />

Maliny (translated as<br />

Grandma Raspberry)<br />

where the menu is full of<br />

hearty dishes.<br />

UP TO €30 Pod<br />

Wawelem (26–29 Ulica<br />

Sw Gertrudy, tel: 012<br />

421 2336) Here the<br />

owners have long<br />

tables running through<br />

the ballroom of<br />

a Habsburg-era hotel.<br />

They’ve whipped up<br />

a beer-hall ambience<br />

with all the trimmings,<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 145<br />

including steins of beer<br />

and schnitzels galore.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Cyrano<br />

de Bergerac (26 Ulica<br />

Slawkowska, tel: 012 411<br />

7288) Burrow down into<br />

Krakow’s subterranean<br />

kingdom in this stylish<br />

cellar where French<br />

cuisine is dished up in<br />

a decidedly aristocratic<br />

interior. Prince Charles<br />

has dined here.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Cafe<br />

Manekin (25 Ulica Sw<br />

Tomasza) Duck out of<br />

the cold in this cosy<br />

spot in central Krakow,<br />

where cheery barmen<br />

serve pints to a loyal<br />

crowd of regulars.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Klub<br />

Studio (4 Ulica<br />

Budryka, tel: 012 617<br />

4545) Nestled amid<br />

student residences,<br />

this rough diamond<br />

serves up dirt cheap<br />

beer and local and<br />

international acts.<br />

UP TO<br />

€50<br />

Trattoria La<br />

Campana (7 Ulica<br />

Kanonicza, tel: 012<br />

430 2232) A perfectly<br />

placed spot near<br />

the castle, restaurant<br />

La Campana serves<br />

up exquisite<br />

Italian cuisine on<br />

a cobbled street that<br />

seems straight out<br />

of a fairytale.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Lodz Kaliska (15 Ulica<br />

Florianska, tel: 012<br />

422 7042) This hip<br />

bar-of-the-moment has<br />

given a string of cellars<br />

a baroque makeover. It’s<br />

a good place for a long<br />

night of partying.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP For a quirky<br />

Christmas present,<br />

head to Kazimierz and<br />

the curious shops of<br />

Ulica Jozefa.<br />

SEE Drop by the<br />

Historical Museum<br />

for Krakow’s annual<br />

Christmas crib exhibition<br />

(35 Rynek Glowny).<br />

GO Kazimierz was,<br />

for centuries the hub<br />

of Krakow’s Jewish<br />

community. Its rich<br />

heritage has been<br />

restored, while artists<br />

have led the way in<br />

breathing new life into<br />

tenement houses, with<br />

plenty of galleries.<br />

ESCAPE The<br />

Suloszowa Castle<br />

of Pieskowa Skala<br />

– set within an unspoilt<br />

wooded valley – is one<br />

of the most romantic<br />

prospects in the region.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Legend has it that<br />

when the clock strikes<br />

midnight on Christmas<br />

Eve, the ghosts of<br />

Poland’s long-fallen<br />

monarchs convene in<br />

a hidden chamber in<br />

Wawel Castle. Look out<br />

for two knights hurtling<br />

through the night sky on<br />

their fl ying steeds – they<br />

have come all the way<br />

from the Carpathians.<br />

Nick Hodge/<br />

cracow-life.com

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