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Jersey<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk on arrival<br />
for special easyJet<br />
infl ight rates.<br />
Holiday Taxis<br />
(easyJet.holiday<br />
taxis.com) take you from<br />
home to the airport, then<br />
city or destination.<br />
The journey to<br />
St Helier costs<br />
Authentic Indian and<br />
Bangladeshi dishes<br />
such as syleti singla and<br />
malai kufta are on<br />
the menu at this<br />
fantastic restaurant.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Tassili<br />
(Esplanade, St Helier,<br />
tel: 01534 722 301)<br />
Part of the luxurious<br />
Grand Hotel, Tassili<br />
uses fresh, local<br />
ingredients in a range<br />
of imaginative dishes<br />
created by head chef<br />
Richard Allen. Try the<br />
highly recommended<br />
tasting menu, which<br />
includes foie gras parfait,<br />
langoustine tortellini,<br />
roast loin of venison<br />
and caramelised<br />
Armagnac tart.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Café Bar (Liberation<br />
Square, St Helier,<br />
tel: 01534 880 110)<br />
Situated in the Pomme<br />
d’Or Hotel and adjacent<br />
to Liberation Square,<br />
The Café Bar offers<br />
meals and snacks<br />
all day, plus a tempting<br />
range of early<br />
evening cocktails.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Roberto’s (Savoy<br />
Hotel, St Helier, tel:<br />
01534 727 521) Newly<br />
refurbished, modern<br />
jazz bar Roberto’s<br />
features live jazz in<br />
authentic surroundings.<br />
Fridays see big bands<br />
and talents, in the<br />
week it’s a bit more<br />
chilled out.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Watersplash<br />
(La Grande Route des<br />
Mielles, tel: 01534 482<br />
885) A surfers’ haunt<br />
by day and clubbers’<br />
paradise by night,<br />
“Splash” is out of town<br />
but attracts the crowds.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP From designer<br />
to high street, fi nd every<br />
fashion brand you need<br />
under one roof, in the<br />
refurbished fi rst fl oor of<br />
the 170-year-old Voisin<br />
department store. Try a<br />
multitude of Christmas<br />
frocks, before picking<br />
your favourite (9<br />
King Street).<br />
SEE The Christmas<br />
festival in the streets<br />
of St Helier, La Fête dé<br />
Noué features street<br />
markets, a Christmas<br />
parade, open-air carol<br />
concerts and night-time<br />
shopping all under<br />
a canopy of bright<br />
lights. Head down<br />
before 20 December to<br />
get a taste of Christmas<br />
on the island.<br />
GO Within a couple<br />
of hundred metres of<br />
Liberation Square, you<br />
will fi nd four museums<br />
and at least half a dozen<br />
restaurants and pubs to<br />
hide away from the cold.<br />
ESCAPE An hour<br />
away by ferry, St Peter’s<br />
Port in Guernsey is<br />
particularly attractive<br />
around Christmas.<br />
The narrow cobbled<br />
streets are beautifully<br />
decorated and there’s<br />
a market brimming with<br />
Christmas spirit.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
about £16.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Murray’s<br />
(La Neuve Route,<br />
St Aubin, tel: 01534<br />
747 963) An all-day<br />
restaurant and café,<br />
Murray’s offers<br />
a tasty three-course<br />
menu for just £10 and<br />
the delicious pizzas<br />
and pasta are freshly<br />
made on the premises<br />
every day.<br />
UP TO €30 Dix-Neuf<br />
(19 Halkett Place, St<br />
Helier, tel: 01534 724<br />
065) This brasserie and<br />
bar is ideally situated<br />
in the centre of town.<br />
The Continental-style<br />
menu includes dishes<br />
like tempting ovenbaked<br />
salmon.<br />
UP TO €50 Café<br />
Spice (53 Kensington<br />
Place, St Helier, tel:<br />
01534 737 377)<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Shell Garden in<br />
St Brelade is the<br />
world’s largest garden<br />
made of shells, boasting<br />
more than one million<br />
delicate shells.<br />
Peter Body<br />
Krakow<br />
Poland<br />
DIALLING CODE +48<br />
CURRENCY Zloty (PLN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk on arrival<br />
for special easyJet<br />
infl ight rates.<br />
Holiday Taxis<br />
(easyJet.holiday<br />
taxis.com) take you from<br />
home to the airport, then<br />
city or destination.<br />
A taxi costs<br />
about PLN80 to<br />
the city centre.<br />
The 208 goes to<br />
Central station in<br />
about 35 minutes, while<br />
the 292 goes to the Old<br />
Town. Tickets: PLN2.50.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 U Babci<br />
Maliny (17 Ulica<br />
Slawkowska, tel: 012<br />
422 7601) Expect great<br />
cuisine based on the<br />
recipes of dear old Babci<br />
Maliny (translated as<br />
Grandma Raspberry)<br />
where the menu is full of<br />
hearty dishes.<br />
UP TO €30 Pod<br />
Wawelem (26–29 Ulica<br />
Sw Gertrudy, tel: 012<br />
421 2336) Here the<br />
owners have long<br />
tables running through<br />
the ballroom of<br />
a Habsburg-era hotel.<br />
They’ve whipped up<br />
a beer-hall ambience<br />
with all the trimmings,<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 145<br />
including steins of beer<br />
and schnitzels galore.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Cyrano<br />
de Bergerac (26 Ulica<br />
Slawkowska, tel: 012 411<br />
7288) Burrow down into<br />
Krakow’s subterranean<br />
kingdom in this stylish<br />
cellar where French<br />
cuisine is dished up in<br />
a decidedly aristocratic<br />
interior. Prince Charles<br />
has dined here.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cafe<br />
Manekin (25 Ulica Sw<br />
Tomasza) Duck out of<br />
the cold in this cosy<br />
spot in central Krakow,<br />
where cheery barmen<br />
serve pints to a loyal<br />
crowd of regulars.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Klub<br />
Studio (4 Ulica<br />
Budryka, tel: 012 617<br />
4545) Nestled amid<br />
student residences,<br />
this rough diamond<br />
serves up dirt cheap<br />
beer and local and<br />
international acts.<br />
UP TO<br />
€50<br />
Trattoria La<br />
Campana (7 Ulica<br />
Kanonicza, tel: 012<br />
430 2232) A perfectly<br />
placed spot near<br />
the castle, restaurant<br />
La Campana serves<br />
up exquisite<br />
Italian cuisine on<br />
a cobbled street that<br />
seems straight out<br />
of a fairytale.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Lodz Kaliska (15 Ulica<br />
Florianska, tel: 012<br />
422 7042) This hip<br />
bar-of-the-moment has<br />
given a string of cellars<br />
a baroque makeover. It’s<br />
a good place for a long<br />
night of partying.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For a quirky<br />
Christmas present,<br />
head to Kazimierz and<br />
the curious shops of<br />
Ulica Jozefa.<br />
SEE Drop by the<br />
Historical Museum<br />
for Krakow’s annual<br />
Christmas crib exhibition<br />
(35 Rynek Glowny).<br />
GO Kazimierz was,<br />
for centuries the hub<br />
of Krakow’s Jewish<br />
community. Its rich<br />
heritage has been<br />
restored, while artists<br />
have led the way in<br />
breathing new life into<br />
tenement houses, with<br />
plenty of galleries.<br />
ESCAPE The<br />
Suloszowa Castle<br />
of Pieskowa Skala<br />
– set within an unspoilt<br />
wooded valley – is one<br />
of the most romantic<br />
prospects in the region.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Legend has it that<br />
when the clock strikes<br />
midnight on Christmas<br />
Eve, the ghosts of<br />
Poland’s long-fallen<br />
monarchs convene in<br />
a hidden chamber in<br />
Wawel Castle. Look out<br />
for two knights hurtling<br />
through the night sky on<br />
their fl ying steeds – they<br />
have come all the way<br />
from the Carpathians.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
cracow-life.com