You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
pepper to spaghetti<br />
with anchovies. They<br />
also do a great<br />
tiramisu for dessert.<br />
Le Tamerici (79 Vicolo<br />
Scavolino, tel: 06 6920<br />
0700) This minimalist<br />
and modern restaurant<br />
near the Trevi Fountain<br />
stands out for its<br />
range of breads and<br />
homemade olive oil. Try<br />
the pelt pasta and the<br />
rich, milky mozzarella<br />
– such as burrata from<br />
Apulia or tender buffalo<br />
meat – you won’t fi nd<br />
it elsewhere in Rome.<br />
For dessert, go for<br />
the apple strudel with<br />
cinnamon whipped<br />
cream. Delicious!<br />
EXCLUSIVE Vivendo<br />
del St Regis Grand<br />
(3 Via Vittorio<br />
Emmanuele Orlando,<br />
tel: 06 4709 2736) An<br />
elegant restaurant on<br />
the ground fl oor of<br />
a famous hotel. Maître<br />
d’ Luciano Cerri and his<br />
staff courteously and<br />
effi ciently serve dishes<br />
including rice with lamb<br />
sauce and black truffl e.<br />
For dessert you could<br />
go for the inventive<br />
tomato gazpacho with<br />
orange and mint and<br />
pearls of fresh fruit.<br />
Agata e Romeo (45<br />
Via Carlo Alberto, tel:<br />
06 446 6115) Run by<br />
Agatta Parisella and<br />
Romeo Caracci, this<br />
excellent trattoria is<br />
famous for its creative<br />
seasonal cuisine. It<br />
also boasts a huge<br />
cellar with hundreds<br />
of high quality wines<br />
from all corners of<br />
the globe. Order<br />
the amazing veal<br />
tenderloin with bacon<br />
and rosemary, and you<br />
won’t be disappointed.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Buccone<br />
(19–20 Via di Ripetta,<br />
tel: 06 361 2154)<br />
An historic enotecca<br />
(wine bar) close to<br />
popular Piazza del<br />
Popolo with a mind<br />
boggling selection of<br />
wines. It’s a wonderful<br />
place to stop and<br />
either buy or drink<br />
a bottle of Italian wine.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Circolo<br />
Degli Artisti (42 Via<br />
Casilina Vecchia, tel: 06<br />
7030 5684) A huge<br />
venue for live music<br />
and dancing outside<br />
the city centre. As well<br />
as an enormous and<br />
usually packed dance<br />
fl oor there is a bar and<br />
a pizzeria, so order a<br />
pizza as you listen to<br />
a selection of hip hop,<br />
Italian pop and punk.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Classico Village<br />
(3 Via Guisseppe<br />
Libetta, tel: 06 572<br />
8857) This buzzing<br />
club boasts a large<br />
performance area<br />
and stage, two bars,<br />
dance fl oors, and<br />
accomplished DJs<br />
who play a wide<br />
range of music till late.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Leone<br />
Limentani began selling<br />
homeware in 1820 and<br />
today boasts one of<br />
the biggest selections<br />
of porcelain, silver and<br />
glassware in the city<br />
– this is a great place<br />
to buy wedding<br />
presents (47–48 Via del<br />
Portico d’Ottavia).<br />
SEE Twenty of<br />
Caravaggio’s<br />
masterpieces are on<br />
show at the Galleria<br />
Borghese, along with<br />
10 pieces of work by<br />
Francis Bacon in a<br />
delightful exhibition<br />
that will keep you<br />
entertained for hours<br />
(685 Via Prenestina,<br />
galleriaborghese.it).<br />
GO In 1555, Pope<br />
Paul V confi ned the<br />
city’s ancient Jewish<br />
community to an area<br />
near Largo Argentina,<br />
walling the people in<br />
and locking them in<br />
at night. Although the<br />
walls are long gone,<br />
there is still a big<br />
Jewish presence in the<br />
area, which is packed<br />
with kosher pizza<br />
takeaways, bakeries,<br />
restaurants, and cafés.<br />
ESCAPE Villa d’Este,<br />
Tivoli is situated up<br />
on the hills and is<br />
a beautiful day trip, 40<br />
minutes from Rome.<br />
Expect UNESCO World<br />
Heritage gardens<br />
bathed in winter<br />
sunlight and fountains<br />
– the most spectacular<br />
one was designed<br />
by famous architect,<br />
Bernini. Take a bus from<br />
the Ponte Mammolo<br />
metro station on Line B.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Santa Cecilia, the<br />
patron saint of music,<br />
is buried in the church<br />
of the same name<br />
in Trastevere. She<br />
is reported to have<br />
survived for several<br />
days after a botched<br />
beheading and spent<br />
the whole time singing!<br />
Alan Goldwater<br />
Salzburg<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk on arrival<br />
for special easyJet<br />
infl ight rates.<br />
Holiday Taxis<br />
(easyJet.holiday<br />
taxis.com) take you<br />
from home to airport,<br />
then city or destination.<br />
TAXI<br />
A trip to the city<br />
costs about €15.<br />
Trains run to<br />
the Salzburg<br />
Hauptbahnhof station<br />
every 10 minutes,<br />
taking 25 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €9 single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Il Sole<br />
(15 Gstättengasse, tel:<br />
0662 843 284) Light<br />
Mediterranean dishes<br />
are served in this<br />
friendly restaurant.<br />
A great choice is<br />
the calamari with<br />
onion bread.<br />
UP TO €30 Maestro<br />
(11 Franz Josefkai,<br />
tel: 0664 203 9889)<br />
Within this minimalist<br />
interior, local and Italian<br />
specialities are fi nely<br />
produced. One of the<br />
stars of the menu is<br />
the salmon steak.<br />
UP TO €50 Gmachl<br />
(35 Dorfstrasse,<br />
tel: 0662 452 124)<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 171<br />
Experience a genuine<br />
Austrian atmosphere<br />
in the Gmachl Hotel<br />
– even the waiting<br />
staff are in traditional<br />
costumes. The menu<br />
includes regional dishes<br />
such as the succulent<br />
veal parmigiana.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Ikarus<br />
(7A Wilhelm Spazier<br />
Strasse, tel: 0662<br />
219 777) In funky<br />
Hangar 7 (a cultural<br />
space in an old aircraft<br />
hanger) this restaurant<br />
invites top-fl ight chefs<br />
to run the kitchen for<br />
a month at a time,<br />
providing a forum for<br />
experimental cuisine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LIVE MUSIC Jazzit<br />
(11 Elisabethstrasse,<br />
tel: 0662 883 264) This<br />
is the city’s legendary<br />
music café, which<br />
organises fantastic jazz<br />
and improvised jam<br />
sessions, attracting<br />
a groovy crowd.<br />
LOW<br />
KEY<br />
220°<br />
(5 Chiemseegasse,<br />
tel: 0662 827 881)<br />
A fantastic café with<br />
a sparse yet stylish<br />
interior where the<br />
wonderful aroma of<br />
freshly roasted coffee<br />
fi lls the air. It may<br />
not be 220° hot,<br />
but this café is the<br />
hottest thing in town.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Watzup (17A Giselakai)<br />
Choose from more than<br />
200 delicious cocktails<br />
and enjoy the easygoing<br />
atmosphere at this<br />
legendary cocktail bar.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If you are<br />
looking for some<br />
decorations for your<br />
Christmas tree, you’re<br />
guaranteed to fi nd what<br />
you’re looking for at the<br />
‘Christmas in Salzburg’<br />
shop (10 Judengasse).<br />
SEE An impressive<br />
collection of landscape<br />
paintings from the<br />
Czernin collection<br />
is on show at the<br />
Residenzgalerie. The<br />
Full Splendour includes<br />
works by Rembrandt,<br />
and Jakob Isaacksz<br />
(1 Residenzplatz).<br />
GO Head to the Old<br />
Town Christmas market<br />
before 26 December,<br />
in the shadow of the<br />
impressive Mirabell<br />
Castle, to taste delicious<br />
almond biscuits and<br />
listen to festive music.<br />
ESCAPE Schladming<br />
is a medieval village with<br />
an excellent ski resort.<br />
Catch the one-hour train<br />
from Salzburg through<br />
picturesque countryside<br />
and you can enjoy long<br />
ski runs, lunch in the<br />
town’s restaurants, or<br />
browse quaint shops.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The salt trade is a big<br />
part of Salzburg’s history<br />
– the world’s oldest salt<br />
mines can be found<br />
just outside the city.<br />
The city’s name literally<br />
means ‘salt castle’.<br />
Uros Urosevic
Change language