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PHOTO © PHILIP VOLKERS | COVER ILLUSTRATION © NICK CHAFFE, NEIL SMITH<br />

DECEMBER <strong>2009</strong><br />

CONTENTS<br />

FEATURES<br />

45 Weekenders<br />

Decadent shopping<br />

in Paris or discount<br />

shopping in Pisa<br />

52 Winter<br />

Odyssey<br />

Snow-laden<br />

icecapades on a<br />

boys’ trip from<br />

Stockholm to Milan<br />

by way of Geneva<br />

and London<br />

58 Lanzarote<br />

Fashion<br />

Elemental style in<br />

the Canary Islands<br />

66 Istanbul<br />

Nightlife<br />

Oriental hip-hop,<br />

gypsy funk, and<br />

Anatolian blues<br />

in Turkey’s capital<br />

of culture<br />

72 Divine Dining<br />

Get into the spirit<br />

of Christmas at<br />

some of Europe’s<br />

most sacred<br />

restaurants<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

76 Berlin Ice<br />

Swimming<br />

The German<br />

capital’s coolest<br />

festive affair<br />

82 Snowkiting<br />

in St Moritz<br />

Skiers get some<br />

wind in their sails<br />

off piste in the<br />

French Alps<br />

96 Big Debate<br />

Does the Swiss<br />

banking industry<br />

need cleaning up?<br />

98 Property<br />

Hidden real estate<br />

gems on Germany’s<br />

Baltic coast<br />

105 Business<br />

From vintage design<br />

to cutting-edge<br />

business online in<br />

Zürich-West<br />

LOCATION<br />

Gran Meliá Salinas<br />

Resort, Lanzarote<br />

Silk tie-back dress<br />

(£149) from Goldhawk;<br />

cowrie shell necklace<br />

(£165) from Pebble<br />

DECEMBER 09 | TRAVELLER | 3

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