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Edinburgh<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk on arrival for<br />

easyJet infl ight rates.<br />

Holiday Taxis<br />

(easyjet.holiday<br />

taxis.com) take you from<br />

home to the airport, then<br />

city or destination.<br />

TAXI<br />

The 25-minute<br />

journey to<br />

Edinburgh costs £15.<br />

The Airlink 100<br />

service goes to<br />

Waverley Bridge in the<br />

centre of Edinburgh.<br />

Tickets: £6 open return.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Café at<br />

the Palace (Palace of<br />

Holyrood House)<br />

A spacious café in the<br />

mews of the Queen’s<br />

Edinburgh residence,<br />

where you can tuck<br />

into delicious, homebaked<br />

goodies.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

L’Artichaut (14 Eyre<br />

Place, tel: 0131 558<br />

1608) The application<br />

of French techniques<br />

to vegetarian cuisine<br />

works a treat in this<br />

friendly restaurant.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Wedgwood (267<br />

Canongate, tel: 0131 558<br />

8737) A real gem on the<br />

Royal Mile, this elegant<br />

restaurant serves<br />

Scottish cuisine with an<br />

international twist.<br />

EXCLUSIVE 21212<br />

(3 Royal Terrace,<br />

tel: 0131 523 1030)<br />

Michelin-starred chef<br />

Paul Kitching brings<br />

wit and invention to a<br />

fi nely tuned menu. The<br />

decadent interior will<br />

tempt you to linger over<br />

another bottle of wine.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Banter<br />

(85–87 Fountainbridge,<br />

tel: 0131 228 8793)<br />

A laidback bar just off<br />

Lothian Road, Banter is<br />

great for lounging with<br />

a coffee or enjoying<br />

a meal with your pint.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Electric<br />

Circus (36–39 Market<br />

Street, tel: 0131 226<br />

4224) A vibrant venue<br />

with touring and local<br />

bands playing. Recent<br />

refurbishment has<br />

provided new, private<br />

karaoke rooms.<br />

THE<br />

GLASSHOUSE<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

This luxurious hotel’s<br />

individually styled<br />

rooms come with<br />

wooden fl oors, fl oorto-ceiling<br />

windows<br />

and extremely<br />

comfortable beds. The<br />

hotel is a short walk<br />

from Princes Street.<br />

From €81, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Medina (45–47 Lothian<br />

Street) Open till 3am<br />

nightly, this Moroccanthemed<br />

club below<br />

Negociants attracts<br />

top name DJs.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP There are party<br />

frocks, special outfi ts<br />

and unique accessories<br />

at Armstrong’s,<br />

Edinburgh’s biggest<br />

vintage and retro<br />

clothing emporium<br />

(83 The Grassmarket).<br />

SEE Scottish<br />

pantomimes are famous<br />

for being big and brash,<br />

and Edinburgh’s <strong>2009</strong><br />

edition, Robinson<br />

Crusoe and the<br />

Caribbean Pirates at<br />

King’s, promises to be<br />

no different (King’s<br />

Theatre, 2 Leven Street).<br />

GO East Princes Street<br />

Gardens turn into<br />

‘Winter Wonderland’<br />

for the festive season,<br />

with a fair, Christmas<br />

market, big ferris wheel<br />

and magical ice-rink.<br />

ESCAPE The Rosslyn<br />

Chapel is just 11km<br />

south of Princes Street<br />

(take bus number 15),<br />

but the ornate carvings<br />

of pagan “Green Men”<br />

are a million miles<br />

from Edinburgh’s<br />

classical architecture.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The huge Christmas<br />

tree on the Mound,<br />

traditionally given to<br />

Edinburgh by the<br />

people of Hordaland,<br />

Norway, is now<br />

grown in the Scottish<br />

Borders to reduce its<br />

carbon footprint.<br />

Thom Dibdin<br />

Faro<br />

Portugal<br />

DIALLING CODE +351<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk on arrival<br />

for special easyJet<br />

infl ight rates.<br />

Holiday Taxis<br />

(easyJet.holiday<br />

taxis.com) take you from<br />

home to the airport, then<br />

city or destination.<br />

TAXI<br />

The fare to the city<br />

centre is about €9.<br />

Eva buses<br />

go to various<br />

destinations. It’s a 20minute<br />

journey to Faro.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Casa da<br />

Igreja (Cacela Velha,<br />

Tavira) An evening-only<br />

restaurant specialising<br />

in oysters, picked daily<br />

by the owners of the Ria<br />

Formosa lagoon, just<br />

below the cliff-top where<br />

this gem is hidden.<br />

UP TO €30 Atlantico<br />

(30 Rua General<br />

Humberto Delgado,<br />

tel: 289 562 098) This<br />

traditional restaurant<br />

has been a local<br />

institution for 30 years.<br />

The food has hardly<br />

changed because it<br />

doesn’t need to – expect<br />

tasty, rustic creations.<br />

UP TO €50 Piri Piri<br />

(Sheraton Algarve,<br />

Falesia, tel: 289 500<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 133<br />

100) There’s a new<br />

look and menu for this<br />

hotel-based favourite<br />

with a modern take on<br />

the Portuguese spice<br />

theme, from grilled spicy<br />

beef to piri-piri chocolate<br />

mousse. They even have<br />

a chilli sauce sommelier!<br />

EXCLUSIVE The<br />

Ocean (Vila Vita Parc,<br />

Porches, tel: 282 310<br />

100) Take in stunning<br />

sea views from this<br />

gourmet hotel resort,<br />

where Austrian chef<br />

Hans Neuner gives<br />

a Germanic twist to<br />

locally caught produce.<br />

Try the mussels with<br />

pumpkin and caramel.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Pickwick’s<br />

Tavern (Praia Olhos<br />

d’Agua) An English pub<br />

with a sense of humour<br />

– they have a “husband<br />

crèche” where the girls<br />

can leave their men to<br />

have a drink, while they<br />

hit the nearby shops.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Santo<br />

Estevao Town Hall<br />

(Tavira, tel: 281<br />

320 500) The local<br />

municipality hosts an<br />

interesting and varied<br />

selection of Portuguese,<br />

Brazilian and world<br />

music concerts at<br />

the weekends<br />

throughout winter.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Casa<br />

do Cerro (Cerro da<br />

Piedade, Albufeira)<br />

A Moorish-themed club<br />

with a dramatic hilltop<br />

setting, bustling bar<br />

and pulsating music.<br />

Cool off away from<br />

the crowds on one of<br />

the outside terraces<br />

– Algarve winters are<br />

milder than most.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The awardwinning<br />

Veneza wine<br />

shop now ships its<br />

renowned products<br />

throughout Europe.<br />

Get to the store before<br />

the boat sets sail and<br />

sample its superb range<br />

of Portuguese wines<br />

(Mem Moniz, Paderne).<br />

SEE The only “snow”<br />

you’ll see in the Algarve<br />

is at Portimao’s ice rink.<br />

There are also New<br />

Year’s Eve parties with<br />

live music, fi reworks and<br />

gourmet food in Tavira,<br />

Vale do Lobo, Quinta do<br />

Lago, Faro, Albufeira,<br />

Portimao and Lagos.<br />

GO Guia has been<br />

smartened up: but<br />

it’s the fantastic<br />

choice of restaurants<br />

in the Algarve’s city<br />

of chicken that will<br />

continue to draw most<br />

visitors – as well as<br />

the Algarve Shopping<br />

retail complex.<br />

ESCAPE Odeceixe, on<br />

the Alentejo border, is<br />

the Algarve’s furthestfl<br />

ung outpost (about<br />

75 minutes from Faro)<br />

and one of its prettiest<br />

towns. Eat, shop, take<br />

photos, and then blow<br />

away the cobwebs with<br />

a walk on one of its two<br />

spectacular beaches.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The traditional<br />

Portuguese equivalent<br />

of Christmas pudding<br />

is bolo rei (king’s cake),<br />

a wreath-shaped fruit<br />

brioche. Whoever fi nds<br />

the broad bean hidden<br />

inside has to pay for<br />

next year’s cake!<br />

Paul Rouse/<br />

inspirationsalgarve.com

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