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Tales of Old Japan - Maybe You Like It

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one side <strong>of</strong> the shrine, we come to another court, plainer than the last,<br />

and at the back <strong>of</strong> the little temple inside it is a flight <strong>of</strong> stone steps, at the<br />

top <strong>of</strong> which, protected by a bronze door, stands a simple monumental<br />

urn <strong>of</strong> bronze on a stone pedestal. Under this is the grave itself; and it<br />

has always struck me that there is no small amount <strong>of</strong> poetical feeling in<br />

this simple ending to so much magnificence; the sermon may have been<br />

preached by design, or it may have been by accident, but the lesson is<br />

there.<br />

There is little difference between the three shrines, all <strong>of</strong> which are<br />

decorated in the same manner. <strong>It</strong> is very difficult to do justice to their<br />

beauty in words. Writing many thousand miles away from them, I have<br />

the memory before me <strong>of</strong> a place green in winter, pleasant and cool in<br />

the hottest summer; <strong>of</strong> peaceful cloisters, <strong>of</strong> the fragrance <strong>of</strong> incense, <strong>of</strong><br />

the subdued chant <strong>of</strong> richly robed priests, and the music <strong>of</strong> bells; <strong>of</strong> exquisite<br />

designs, harmonious colouring, rich gilding. The hum <strong>of</strong> the vast<br />

city outside is unheard here: Iyéyasu himself, in the mountains <strong>of</strong> Nikkô,<br />

has no quieter resting-place than his descendants in the heart <strong>of</strong> the city<br />

over which they ruled.<br />

Besides the graves <strong>of</strong> the Shoguns, Zôjôji contains other lesser shrines,<br />

in which are buried the wives <strong>of</strong> the second, sixth, and eleventh Shoguns,<br />

and the father <strong>of</strong> Iyénobu, the sixth Shogun, who succeeded to the<br />

<strong>of</strong>fice by adoption. There is also a holy place called the Satsuma Temple,<br />

which has a special interest; in it is a tablet in honour <strong>of</strong> Tadayoshi, the<br />

fifth son <strong>of</strong> Iyéyasu, whose title was Matsudaira Satsuma no Kami, and<br />

who died young. At his death, five <strong>of</strong> his retainers, with one Ogasasawara<br />

Kemmotsu at their head, disembowelled themselves, that they<br />

might follow their young master into the next world. They were buried<br />

in this place; and I believe that this is the last instance on record <strong>of</strong> the<br />

ancient <strong>Japan</strong>ese custom <strong>of</strong> Junshi, that is to say, "dying with the master."<br />

There are, during the year, several great festivals which are specially<br />

celebrated at Zôjoji; the chief <strong>of</strong> these are the Kaisanki, or founder's day,<br />

which is on the eighteenth day <strong>of</strong> the seventh month; the twenty-fifth<br />

day <strong>of</strong> the first month, the anniversary <strong>of</strong> the death <strong>of</strong> the monk Hônen,<br />

the founder <strong>of</strong> the Jôdo sect <strong>of</strong> Buddhism (that to which the temple belongs);<br />

the anniversary <strong>of</strong> the death <strong>of</strong> Buddha, on the fifteenth <strong>of</strong> the<br />

second month; the birthday <strong>of</strong> Buddha, on the eighth day <strong>of</strong> the fourth<br />

month; and from the sixth to the fifteenth <strong>of</strong> the tenth month.<br />

At Uyéno is the second <strong>of</strong> the burial-grounds <strong>of</strong> the Shoguns. The<br />

Temple Tô-yei-zan, which stood in the grounds <strong>of</strong> Uyéno, was built by<br />

Iyémitsu, the third <strong>of</strong> the Shoguns <strong>of</strong> the house <strong>of</strong> Tokugawa, in the year<br />

192

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