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one side <strong>of</strong> the shrine, we come to another court, plainer than the last,<br />
and at the back <strong>of</strong> the little temple inside it is a flight <strong>of</strong> stone steps, at the<br />
top <strong>of</strong> which, protected by a bronze door, stands a simple monumental<br />
urn <strong>of</strong> bronze on a stone pedestal. Under this is the grave itself; and it<br />
has always struck me that there is no small amount <strong>of</strong> poetical feeling in<br />
this simple ending to so much magnificence; the sermon may have been<br />
preached by design, or it may have been by accident, but the lesson is<br />
there.<br />
There is little difference between the three shrines, all <strong>of</strong> which are<br />
decorated in the same manner. <strong>It</strong> is very difficult to do justice to their<br />
beauty in words. Writing many thousand miles away from them, I have<br />
the memory before me <strong>of</strong> a place green in winter, pleasant and cool in<br />
the hottest summer; <strong>of</strong> peaceful cloisters, <strong>of</strong> the fragrance <strong>of</strong> incense, <strong>of</strong><br />
the subdued chant <strong>of</strong> richly robed priests, and the music <strong>of</strong> bells; <strong>of</strong> exquisite<br />
designs, harmonious colouring, rich gilding. The hum <strong>of</strong> the vast<br />
city outside is unheard here: Iyéyasu himself, in the mountains <strong>of</strong> Nikkô,<br />
has no quieter resting-place than his descendants in the heart <strong>of</strong> the city<br />
over which they ruled.<br />
Besides the graves <strong>of</strong> the Shoguns, Zôjôji contains other lesser shrines,<br />
in which are buried the wives <strong>of</strong> the second, sixth, and eleventh Shoguns,<br />
and the father <strong>of</strong> Iyénobu, the sixth Shogun, who succeeded to the<br />
<strong>of</strong>fice by adoption. There is also a holy place called the Satsuma Temple,<br />
which has a special interest; in it is a tablet in honour <strong>of</strong> Tadayoshi, the<br />
fifth son <strong>of</strong> Iyéyasu, whose title was Matsudaira Satsuma no Kami, and<br />
who died young. At his death, five <strong>of</strong> his retainers, with one Ogasasawara<br />
Kemmotsu at their head, disembowelled themselves, that they<br />
might follow their young master into the next world. They were buried<br />
in this place; and I believe that this is the last instance on record <strong>of</strong> the<br />
ancient <strong>Japan</strong>ese custom <strong>of</strong> Junshi, that is to say, "dying with the master."<br />
There are, during the year, several great festivals which are specially<br />
celebrated at Zôjoji; the chief <strong>of</strong> these are the Kaisanki, or founder's day,<br />
which is on the eighteenth day <strong>of</strong> the seventh month; the twenty-fifth<br />
day <strong>of</strong> the first month, the anniversary <strong>of</strong> the death <strong>of</strong> the monk Hônen,<br />
the founder <strong>of</strong> the Jôdo sect <strong>of</strong> Buddhism (that to which the temple belongs);<br />
the anniversary <strong>of</strong> the death <strong>of</strong> Buddha, on the fifteenth <strong>of</strong> the<br />
second month; the birthday <strong>of</strong> Buddha, on the eighth day <strong>of</strong> the fourth<br />
month; and from the sixth to the fifteenth <strong>of</strong> the tenth month.<br />
At Uyéno is the second <strong>of</strong> the burial-grounds <strong>of</strong> the Shoguns. The<br />
Temple Tô-yei-zan, which stood in the grounds <strong>of</strong> Uyéno, was built by<br />
Iyémitsu, the third <strong>of</strong> the Shoguns <strong>of</strong> the house <strong>of</strong> Tokugawa, in the year<br />
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