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Journal of Italian Translation

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Blossom S. Kirschenbaum /Fernanda Pivano<br />

world and we headed out toward the highway. Passing in front <strong>of</strong><br />

a westernized shoe shop we recognized or thought we recognized<br />

from his strange attire one <strong>of</strong> the Bedouins seen the day before along<br />

the street. He was squatting on the ground and in a pensive and<br />

diffident way he kept turning between his hands a pair <strong>of</strong> women’s<br />

shoes, the kind from the Third World, ten years out <strong>of</strong> date.<br />

I thought:<br />

“Everything’s turning to shit.” I said:<br />

“Let’s hope he doesn’t buy them.”<br />

“What’s that?” asked Lino, who was busy photographing the<br />

Bedouin.<br />

“Nothing,” I said. “Nothing.”<br />

When we arrived at the frontier I was still thinking about my<br />

Bedouin and I forgot him only on account <strong>of</strong> the difficulties <strong>of</strong> crossing<br />

back again, even more muddled than those <strong>of</strong> entering.<br />

We arrived at the hotel in the late evening and found that<br />

horrible guide waiting for us. He pretended that we had forgotten<br />

which day it was, that he had waited for us since morning; he<br />

made out that he expected to be paid. What a nuisance. But there<br />

were no other guides available, and we came to an agreement with<br />

him for the next day.<br />

“We must go to the Castle,” he said peremptorily.<br />

That evening we read in the Blue Guide about what the Castle<br />

was and the next day there we were on the ancient Phoenician<br />

beach. Young boys were in the water up to their knees. They had<br />

already raked through the sand and now they were looking around<br />

underwater for greenish Roman shards <strong>of</strong> glass that they sell to<br />

tourists as Phoenician and that I complying with the rule bought<br />

along with a lovely star in relief on a round coin fascinatingly oxidized.<br />

I had in mind that Lino should make a ring out <strong>of</strong> it but Lino<br />

never made it.<br />

The visit to the Crusaders’ Castle I recall poorly. Lino, as always,<br />

photographed everything without paying attention to me<br />

and while I wandered through the corridors in the darkness between<br />

high walls, dank and black, I was unexpectedly attacked by<br />

the so-called guide, who leapt upon me from behind.<br />

“Make love, make love,” he panted in English behind me while<br />

I tried to decide whether to scream. Lino on the other side <strong>of</strong> the<br />

thickness <strong>of</strong> the walls did not hear and when I managed to break<br />

loose I began to run as in an anxiety nightmare, through those very<br />

labyrinths about which so much is said these days at literary conferences,<br />

closely pursued by the guide who was laughing like a<br />

maniac out <strong>of</strong> the stories <strong>of</strong> H. P. Lovecraft. The more I ran the<br />

worse I got lost, and I threw myself into a state <strong>of</strong> anguish fit to tell<br />

93

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