heraldryofyorkmi01custuoft

248 THE HERALDRY OF YORK MINSTER.
But the next figure, King Stephen, has a very
remarkable belt or
girdle, which is probably intended to represent pieces of
metal fastened together side by side, the ends being bent
over at right angles, and ornaments adorned with some
simple device.
The statue of Henry V. is girt with a very rich and
beautiful girdle,
ornamented in
the centre with
a
representation
of the Pelican
vulning
herself, or as it
is termed, "the
Pelican in her
piety." This
forms a charge
in the arms of Pelham, and also of Corpus Christ! College,
Cambridge, founded 1351, and Corpus Christi College,
Oxford, 1516. It is not mentioned amongst the royal
badges, and therefore I am disposed to regard it here,
as in these two latter coats, as having simply a religious significance.
On the dress of Richard I. will be noticed a representation of an
aulmoniere, sometimes called an alner, i.e. a bag, pouch, or purse. It is
mentioned in the Lay of St. Launfal
"I will give thee an alner
Made of silk and gold clear."*
It was more or less ornamented, and generally hung from the girdle
here it seems attached to the dress.
by long laces of silk and gold;
The girdle, therefore, was evidently an important and honourable
part of the costume, and, for that reason, might well be regarded as
finding its expression in the Fess. But besides the girdle, there seems to
have been another belt of far greater significance. Even the belt of
knighthood, or " le ceinture noble," which appears not to have been worn by
anyone under the rank of knight, and which, by its excessive magnificence,
imparts a marked character to the costume of the period, ranging from
the middle of the reign of Edward III. to the end of that of Henry VI.
It was not worn round the waist but encircled the hips, and always formed
part of the costume, alike over the "coat hardie" in hall and at banquet,
as over the "jupon" in the lists, or the field of battle. It was made
Planche's History of Costume, vol. i., page 23.