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60 THE HERALDRY OF YORK MINSTER.<br />

In the gth of Edward I., 1281, it is provided and commanded that no<br />

woman of the city shall go to market, or in the King's highway, out of her<br />

house, with a hood furred with other than lambskin or rabbitskin, on pain<br />

of losing her hood to the use of the sheriffs. Ladies who wear furred capes<br />

may have on the hoods such furs as they think proper and this because<br />

;<br />

the regeatresses (females who sold articles by retail), nurses and other<br />

servants, and women of loose life, bedizen themselves, and wear hoods<br />

furred with gros-vair and minever, in<br />

guise of good ladies.<br />

By 24th of Edward III., 1351, it is<br />

provided and ordered by the mayor,<br />

sheriffs, aldermen, and commoners of the said city, that women of immoral<br />

character shall not " be so daring as to be attired by day or night in any<br />

" kind of vesture trimmed with fur, such as menevyer, grey-purree of<br />

" stranlyng, popelle of squirrels, bys (i.e.<br />

brown hue) of rabbits or hares, or<br />

" any other manner of noble budge, or lined with seradale, bokerames,<br />

" samytes (samite, a rich texture of silk), or any other noble lining," on<br />

pain<br />

of forfeiture.<br />

In the jrd of Richard II., 1382, it is ordered that such women shall<br />

have and use hoods of ray only, and should not wear any manner of budge,<br />

or perreie (purree), or revers (some kind of fur specially used for trimmings<br />

and linings) any one transgressing to be brought to the compter, and<br />

the furs<br />

forfeited.<br />

Edward II., 1310, forbids tailors to scour fur in the Chepe "that so<br />

" the great lords and good folks passing through<br />

. . .<br />

might not by<br />

" such manner of scouring be disturbed or delayed in passing." They are<br />

to be scoured in some " dead lane, where no great lords are passing, either<br />

" going or coming, and whereby no dispute may arise."<br />

The ermine holds, perhaps, the chief place in popular estimation<br />

amongst furs, not so much from the finish of its<br />

assumed significance.<br />

quality, but because of its<br />

Anne of Bretagne (says Palliser, p. 1 13), 1513, Queen of Charles VIII.,<br />

and afterwards of Louis XII., adopted the ermine, the ancient hereditary<br />

device of her duchy, with the motto, "Malo mori quam fcedari" "Better<br />

" to die than be<br />

"<br />

sullied or as the French render "<br />

it, Plutot mourir<br />

" que souiller."<br />

Anne appears more frequently to<br />

have used the motto of the Breton<br />

order of the ermine, "A ma vie." It was placed on the herse erected at<br />

Nantes after her death to receive her heart; and on a fountain of the<br />

market-place of Tours may still be seen on one side the porcupine of<br />

Louis XII., and on the other the ermine of Queen Anne, with the<br />

" A ma vie."<br />

motto,<br />

After the death of Charles VIII. she encircled her arms with the<br />

cordeliere or cord of St. Francis, which she afterwards converted into an<br />

order for widow ladies.

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