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TRAVEL<br />
BLACK SAND ISLAND<br />
IN BEAUTIFUL RANONG<br />
AN OCEAN’S BOUNTY<br />
Koh Sai Dam, or Black Sand Island,<br />
sits in a prime location at the mouth<br />
of a river near the coastline, perfect<br />
for fishing and fresh seafood.<br />
Surrounded by vast shoals with<br />
open sea just beyond, the water<br />
here is a bountiful feeding ground<br />
for pelagic fish and other marine<br />
creatures, including lobsters, mantis<br />
shrimp, crabs, clams, mussels,<br />
squids and many more.<br />
The island lies at the tip of Laem<br />
Makham cape near a mangrove<br />
conservation area with delightful<br />
views of the Andaman. Its beaches<br />
are lined with stretches of smokehued<br />
sand, given their distinctive<br />
color by tiny fragments decaying<br />
bark and leaves from the mangroves,<br />
and layered with seafloor sediment<br />
stirred up by the 2004 tsunami.<br />
The island is also relatively<br />
isolated. It is only accessible via a<br />
20-minute long-tail boat ride from<br />
the mainland’s district of Amphoe<br />
74<br />
<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />
Ngao, and the lack of access has preserved much of<br />
locals’ traditional way of life.<br />
The long-tail boats’ old-fashioned propellers only just<br />
pierce the surface of the sea and they are still driven by<br />
roaring engines. They are nonetheless more efficient than<br />
high-tech propellers, which are submerged in water.<br />
Remarkably, the 97 households on this island have<br />
fixed and built everything by themselves for years. For<br />
this self-sufficient little neighborhood, there is no need<br />
for electric cables, except for solar energy.<br />
They also make a living from the ocean. Ranong<br />
is famed for its eight-month long rainy season, which<br />
creates perfect conditions for catching a cornucopia of<br />
fish and marine invertebrates.<br />
The sale of seafood products is a primary source of<br />
income among Koh Sai Dam communities, and locals<br />
prioritize conservation. Small-scale fishers have seen<br />
steady increases in extra income through the sale of<br />
many marine animals.<br />
Although fishers are earning more with high-value<br />
sales of lobster and crab, for the past six years they have<br />
also begun to cook fresh feasts for seafood lovers as<br />
well, as part of a tourism package.<br />
The community’s four-meal eco-tour package spans<br />
two days and one night. Visitors also learn the art of<br />
fishing on the open sea using nets or<br />
traps, as well as processes involved<br />
in aquaculture, where fish are raised<br />
in floating baskets.<br />
For an authentic local<br />
experience, travelers can also take<br />
a jaunt on one of the area’s wooden<br />
dolmuses (share taxis), which<br />
provide public transport between<br />
Ranong town’s bus terminal and Tha<br />
Ton Son pier.<br />
Your best bet is to buy a full<br />
package, which includes all-youcan-eat<br />
fresh seafood as well as<br />
rides to other islands, like Koh<br />
Payam and Koh Chang, to explore<br />
their wonderfully white sand<br />
beaches.<br />
In addition, Black Sand Island is<br />
a good jumping-off point for other<br />
islands in the Andaman Sea, as well<br />
as for atolls in the territorial waters<br />
of neighboring Myanmar.<br />
Let locals lead the way for an<br />
authentic island adventure!