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112 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Athens<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, London<br />
(LGW), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris<br />
(ORY), Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Proastiako and<br />
metro line trains<br />
service the city. Tickets:<br />
€6 single; €10 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Cabrio<br />
(34–36 Kastorias Street,<br />
Votanikos, tel: 210 348<br />
0000) The colourful and<br />
modern café-restaurant<br />
in the Athinais arts<br />
centre has a small but<br />
well-executed menu with<br />
multi-ethnic overtones.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Funky Gourmet (13<br />
Paramythias Street, tel:<br />
210 524 2727) Always<br />
on the cutting edge<br />
of culinary art, chefs<br />
Hiliadaki, Bantis and<br />
Roussos have taken<br />
a few pointers from<br />
across the Atlantic and<br />
produced their own<br />
table-top desserts at<br />
this restaurant.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Kinky<br />
Café (24 Megalou<br />
Alexandrou Street)<br />
The name says it all.<br />
The erotic ambience<br />
is reinforced by the<br />
artwork on the walls and<br />
the suggestively named<br />
drinks on the menu.<br />
Defi nitely X-rated.<br />
LATE & LIVELY D.C.<br />
(30–32 Iera Odos Street,<br />
Gazi) This mainstream<br />
club is decorated to look<br />
like a street with the<br />
walls of the buildings<br />
removed, letting you<br />
see parts of a garage,<br />
a kitchen, a living room<br />
and a school library.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Block colours,<br />
animal appliques and<br />
clothes as collage: the<br />
Heel Shop is 100%<br />
Greek and fun – it’s all<br />
about discovering the<br />
child within (11 Irakleitou<br />
Street, heelshop.gr).<br />
SEE The exhibition<br />
Obsessions & Intimacy,<br />
featuring work by<br />
Austrian artists, will<br />
be on display at the<br />
B&M Theocharakis<br />
Foundation for the<br />
Fine Arts and Music<br />
throughout the month (9<br />
Vassilissis Sofi as Avenue,<br />
tel: 210 361 1206).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
March coincides with<br />
Orthodox Lent, which<br />
is a much stricter aff air<br />
than in most of Europe.<br />
Apart from chocolate, a<br />
decent Lent fast bans all<br />
types of meat, eggs and<br />
dairy products, except<br />
“bloodless” seafood<br />
such as shellfi sh.<br />
Eva Webster<br />
Barcelona<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Dortmund, Geneva,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN), Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Newcastle<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Aerobus runs<br />
a frequent service<br />
to Plaça Catalunya.<br />
Tickets: €5.<br />
Trains service the<br />
Sants Estació.<br />
Tickets: €2.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 La Divina<br />
(5 Carrer d’Ataulf, tel: 93<br />
180 6940) Tucked out of<br />
sight in the Barri Gotic,<br />
this suave little barrestaurant<br />
serves tasty<br />
Euro-Iberian and Tex-Mex<br />
cuisine at friendly prices.<br />
During lunch (1–4pm),<br />
take advantage of the<br />
three-course menú del<br />
día for under €10.<br />
UP TO €30 Mesón<br />
David (63 Carrer de<br />
Carretas, tel: 93 441<br />
5934) Classic Spanish<br />
dishes from every<br />
region of the country<br />
have found their way<br />
on to the menu of this<br />
superb restaurant.<br />
Basque hake, Navarran<br />
trout and Galician stews<br />
are all served in huge<br />
portions – suffi ce to say<br />
no one leaves Mesón<br />
David hungry.<br />
UP TO €50 I Buoni<br />
Amici (193 Carrer<br />
Casanova, tel: 93<br />
439 6816) With its<br />
quirky décor, intimate<br />
atmosphere and<br />
delicious pasta, it’s no<br />
surprise this is one<br />
of L’Eixample’s most<br />
popular Italian eateries. I<br />
Buoni Amici also serves<br />
a mean steak if you fancy<br />
something more meaty.<br />
EXCLUSIVE 7 Portes<br />
(14 Passeig Isabel II,<br />
tel: 93 319 3033) A<br />
Barcelona icon since<br />
1836, the stately 7 Portes<br />
has seen generations<br />
of genteel Barcelonans<br />
pass through its seven<br />
doors for wonderful<br />
seafood and rice dishes.<br />
The paella is legendary.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cervecería<br />
Jazz (44 Carrer de<br />
Margarit, tel: 93 443<br />
3259) A tremendous fi nd<br />
in the earthy district of<br />
Poble Sec, this bar has<br />
little to do with jazz but a<br />
lot to do with tasty beers<br />
and ales from around<br />
the world. The perfect<br />
antidote to another night<br />
of bland big-brand lager.<br />
LIVE MUSIC La Cova<br />
de les Cultures (12<br />
Carrer de l’ Ángel, tel:<br />
93 237 5260) This selfstyled<br />
“laboratory of<br />
art” is located in Gracia<br />
and throws on several<br />
concerts each month,<br />
typically ethnic jams by<br />
established musicians.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Manchester Bar (5<br />
Carrer de Milans) A<br />
cult fave among the<br />
alternative crowd, the<br />
“Manchester” part of the<br />
bar’s name is a clue to its<br />
soundtrack: Joy Division,<br />
Stone Roses and Oasis<br />
all feature heavily. A great<br />
place to start or end any<br />
pub crawl in El Gotico.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Wawas has a<br />
smorgasbord of gifts<br />
on display, from fridge<br />
magnets by local artists<br />
to tapas cookbooks and<br />
even the odd calendar.<br />
Needless to say, all are<br />
better than a T-shirt<br />
saying “My sister went<br />
to Barcelona...”<br />
(14 Carrer de Carders,<br />
wawasbarcelona.com).<br />
SEE It’s not quite<br />
Rio, but the Sitges<br />
Carnival (3–9 March)<br />
is nonetheless one<br />
HOTEL<br />
MODERNO<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Tucked on a side<br />
street just 20m from<br />
Las Ramblas, you’ll<br />
fi nd this your perfect<br />
Barcelona base.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €95, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
fantastic party. Everyone<br />
descends on the coastal<br />
resort in fancy dress<br />
and dances on the<br />
streets until dawn. The<br />
35-minute train ride<br />
from Barcelona will<br />
seem a lot easier going<br />
out than coming back<br />
with a sore head.<br />
GO The area above<br />
El Borne, known as La<br />
Ribera, is a perfect place<br />
to discover a quiet slice<br />
of Barcelona for yourself.<br />
Amid the narrow lanes,<br />
scenic squares and<br />
locally patroned cafés<br />
and bars, the splendid<br />
Palau Música Catalana<br />
rises up in all its redbrick<br />
Modernisme splendour<br />
(11 Carrer de Sant<br />
Pere Més Alt).<br />
ESCAPE The sacred<br />
mountain of Montserrat<br />
is one of the most<br />
popular day trips from<br />
Barcelona, thanks to its<br />
dramatic jagged rock<br />
face rising over the<br />
Benedictine Santa Maria<br />
abbey. The latter houses<br />
the famous 12thcentury<br />
Black Virgin<br />
statue and one of the<br />
oldest printing presses<br />
in the world. Trains<br />
leave frequently from<br />
Barcelona embarking on<br />
the hour-long journey.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
When Franco paid a<br />
visit to Palau Música<br />
Catalana in 1960, local<br />
rebels treated him to a<br />
rendition of a regional<br />
hymn in Catalan, a<br />
language the dictator<br />
had made illegal. Franco<br />
responded by having the<br />
perpetrators arrested.<br />
Duncan Rhodes/<br />
Barcelona-life.com