march-2011

Leeds
Bradford UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Geneva
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £20.
Buses leave every
30 minutes to both
cities. Tickets: £2.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet off ers.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Art’s Cafe
Bar (42 Call Lane, tel:
0113 243 8243) This
bar-bistro is a popular
spot with the young
professional crowd. Make
sure you try the Yorkshire
plate for a true taste
of the area, including
Wensleydale cheese.
EXCLUSIVE Vennell’s
Restaurant (7 Silver
Street, Masham, Ripon,
tel: 01765 689 000)
With two AA rosettes
and mentions in the
Good Food Guide, this
is one restaurant to
book in advance. Head
chef Jon Vennell learnt
his trade in the city’s
top hotel restaurants.
In 2005 he opened his
own establishment,
determined to serve
fresh local produce
handled with care and
served sympathetically.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Cuthbert Brodrick
(99 Portland Crescent,
tel: 0113 204 8570) Not
your usual chain bar,
The Cuthbert Brodrick
takes its name from the
architect who designed
Leeds Town Hall and
the Corn Exchange.
This bar serves great
drinks, and you’ll fi nd
a vibrant atmosphere.
LATE & LIVELY
Nation of Shopkeepers
(27–37 Cookridge Street,
tel: 0113 203 1831)
Imported beers and
real ales complement
DJs and live bands once
the sun sets. Nation of
Shopkeepers is defi nitely
the place to see urban
hipsters and the indie set.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Aspecto is a
menswear shop located
in the city centre. Very
friendly staff help
you choose between
diff erent brand names
(1 Queen Victoria Street,
aspecto.co.uk).
GO The Hepworth
Gallery will hold
a collection of 40
sculptures by local artist
Barbara Hepworth,
alongside works by
international artists
(hepworthwakefi eld.org).
NO WAY!
About a third of all UK
internet traffi c is hosted
in Leeds, with more
ISDN lines per head of
population than any
other city in the world.
Gina Davies
Lisbon
Portugal
DIALLING CODE +351
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Barcelona,
Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin,
Bristol, Edinburgh,
Geneva, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN),
Lyon, Madeira, Madrid,
Milan (MXP), Paris
(CDG), Rome (FCO),
Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Worldwide Relocation
Fine Art & Antiques Shipping
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
The Aerobus
leaves every 20
minutes. Tickets: €3.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Cantina
Lx Factory (103
Rua Rodrigues Faria,
Alcântara, tel: 21
314 3399) Scarcely
renovated, this old
workshop in the creative
Lx Factory area has a
limited menu – it is, after
all, a canteen – but it
does good, cheap food in
an amazing space. Much
of the cuisine comes out
from the huge oven in
the centre of the room.
UP TO €30 Passage
to India (45 Avenida
Praia da Vitória, tel: 21
354 4073) Something
of an oasis in an area
that is gastronomically
unpromising, this is a
classy joint with cool
décor and sophisticated
service. It has a popular
lunchtime buff et.
Passage to India also
has an extensive
á la carte menu and
decent wine list.
UP TO €50
Pap’Açorda (57–59 Rua
da Atalaia, tel: 21 346
4811) Right in the heart
of Bairro Alto, this is the
place to fi nd a bit of glam
and glitz. The cuisine is
a contemporary take on
Portuguese classics.
Be sure to book.
EXCLUSIVE
Restaurant Flores
(Hotel de Bairro Alto,
2 Praça Luís de
Camões, tel: 21 340
8252) A hotel restaurant
bang in the centre of
things that’s far more
stylish than most and
boasts an adventurous
menu with variations
on Portuguese and
Mediterranean staples.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Botequim
(79 Largo da Graça,
tel: 21 888 8511) A
legendary hang-out of
artists and intellectuals,
this small bar has
recently reopened
with food, drinks and
a programme of music
and poetry readings.
LIVE MUSIC Casino
Lisboa Arena Lounge
(Alameda dos Oceanos,
tel: 21 892 9000)
This sparkling, glitzy,
glamorous casino off ers
some free treats too.
The Arena Lounge has
DESTINATION GUIDES | 147
free concerts most
nights starting at 9pm,
mostly – but not always
– featuring jazz.
LATE & LIVELY
Jamaica (6 Rua Nova do
Carvalho, Cais de Sodre,
tel: 21 342 1859) One of
the old waterfront joints,
once popular
with seamen, Jamaica
retains a whiff of its
raffi sh past, but it’s
now one of the best
places to listen to
reggae music in the city.
THIS MONTH
SHOP A Outra Face da
Lua continues to be the
best downtown outlet
for vintage clothes and
other artefacts. It also
boasts a pleasant café
with tables outside. Just
around the corner is an
overspill warehouse with
many cheaper treats for
the less-discerning buyer
(22 Rua da Assunção).
SEE The New York
gypsy-punk combo
Gogol Bordello will be
at the Campo Pequeno
bullring on 7 March
EUROSTARS
DAS LETRAS
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
This little taste of
Lisbon luxury off ers
a unique stay with a
literary theme. Each
room is dedicated to
a celebrated writer.
From €89, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
(campopequeno.com);
Joan Wasser in her
challenging guise of
Joan as Policewoman
will be at the Lisbon
Casino on 13 March
(casino-lisboa.pt), and
on 20 March thousands
will be running in the
huge Lisbon halfmarathon(lisbonhalf-marathon.com).
GO The Principe Real
garden is one of the hubs
of fashionable Lisbon
life, and the surrounding
streets and squares
have lots to off er the
casual stroller. As well
as a host of classy
bars, restaurants and
designer shops, there’s
also the stupendous and
neglected delight of the
botanical garden and
the Patriarchal Reservoir,
which has an entrance
in the garden itself.
ESCAPE Setúbal,
Portugal’s third city, is
under an hour from the
capital. It may not be the
most beautiful of cities,
but it’s well situated and
has plenty of attractions,
including the Troia
peninsula just a ferry
ride away and the lovely
Arrábida hills to the west.
In the city itself, the only
notable monument is the
Manueline Monastery of
Jesus, with its incredible
twisted columns.
NO WAY!
The queen of pastelarias
(cake shops) has to be
Fábrica de Pastéis de
Nata in Belém, which
has been turning out
thousands of delectable
little custard tarts every
day since 1837.
Jonathan Weightman
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