march-2011

FEATURES | FARO
O Estaminé restaurant (tel: +351 917 811
856) – it’s the only one on the island, and
the chef creates some of the freshest fi sh
dishes you’ll ever taste from his solarpowered
kitchen.
Back in Faro, the food is just as
inspiring. The locals are serious about
eating, and there are countless familyrun
restaurants hugging the edges of the
twisting pedestrian streets. Uphill from the
marina, great icy cabinets of freshly caught
seafood reel people into one of Faro’s oldest
and best. Adega Dois Irmãos (14 Largo
Terreiro do Bispo, tel: +351 289 823 337)
was opened by two brothers (the dois
irmãos) in 1925, and it was serving hearty
local dishes long before mass-market
tourism hit the Algarve.
Another distinctive – but very different
– fl avour of the region comes from Faro’s
deliciously sweet cakes and pastries. The
city has a huge selection of sweet-smelling
pastelarias selling pastéis de nata (custard
tarts), bolos (small cakes) and many other
66 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11
naughty treats. Gardy (16 Rua de Santo
Antonio, tel: +351 289 824 062) is widely
regarded as one of the best – choose your
pastry at the glass counter before taking
a seat at one of the tables sprawled along
the pavement to enjoy your food.
ONCE FED AND CAFFEINATED you’ll be
ready to set out again, and as you wander
through the city you won’t fail to notice
the bold blue-and-white azulejo tiles
decorating the buildings. Apparently
these glazed tiles were fi rst introduced to
Portugal by the Moors, who believed in the
notion of horror vacui – quite literally, the
fear of empty spaces. As a result, churches
across Portugal were transformed into
ornate and elegant patchworks covered
with elaborate tiled designs. Seek out the
Igreja de São Francisco on Largo de São
Francisco, a 17th-century church in the
Old Town, and marvel at the mesmerising
panels that cover its walls, depicting the
life of St Francis.
Clockwise from left,
Portuguese-style fried
sardines, the Museu
Arqueológico, Largo da
Sé and the cathedral,
Faro’s tranquil marina.
Previous page, the Ria
Formosa lagoon
Today many of these beautiful buildings
have been put to new uses, so they aren’t
just for looking at. An even older church,
the tiny 16th-century Italianate Jesuit
Colégio de Santiago Maior, was stripped
of its original interior and reopened as
a theatre in 1843. The Teatro Lethes, as it’s
now known (59 Rua de Portugal, tel: +351
289 820 300), has gained a reputation as
Faro’s cultural hotspot, offering a varied
programme that covers everything from
children’s shows to dance festivals.
It only takes a few days to uncover Faro’s
treasures, but this compact, sophisticated
city packs a punch. As appealing as it might
be to head straight for the beach, Faro
offers a rare chance to soak up the sights,
smells and sounds of old Portugal
– try it and you won’t be disappointed.
easyJet flies to...
Faro from eight destinations.
See our insider guide on page 134.
Book online at easyJet.com
PHOTOS © ALAMY, 4CORNERS, CORBIS