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Venice<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Ibiza, London<br />

(LGW), Lyon, Madrid,<br />

Naples, Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />

Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The ACTV yellow<br />

bus 5 runs to<br />

Piazzale Roma. Tickets:<br />

€2.50 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Ristorante Diana<br />

(2519 Fondamenta<br />

Misericordia,<br />

Cannaregio, tel: 041<br />

715 977) A good choice<br />

for a decent, traditional<br />

meal that doesn’t cost<br />

the earth, in a pleasant<br />

canal-side location.<br />

The menu features<br />

a wide range of fi sh and<br />

meat specialities.<br />

UP TO €30 Al<br />

Mascaron (5225 Calle<br />

Longa Santa Maria<br />

Formosa, Castello, tel:<br />

041 522 5995) There’s a<br />

great atmosphere in this<br />

historic hostelry, which is<br />

much frequented by the<br />

locals. Beamed ceilings<br />

and chunky wooden<br />

tables characterise the<br />

décor, while the menu<br />

is a roll-call of classic<br />

Venetian recipes.<br />

UP TO €50 Osteria<br />

La Zucca (1762 Calle<br />

del Tentor, Santa<br />

Croce, tel: 041 524<br />

1570) This charming<br />

Mediterranean-style<br />

place serves some<br />

inspired vegetarian<br />

dishes, but there’s plenty<br />

for hardened carnivores<br />

too. Herbs and spices<br />

abound, including the<br />

homemade desserts<br />

– try the spicy red wine<br />

and raspberry tart.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Al Gatto<br />

Nero (88 Via Giudecca,<br />

Burano, tel: 041 730<br />

120) Excellent Venetian<br />

specialities and a good<br />

wine list – plus a lovely,<br />

peaceful position on<br />

Burano – make a meal<br />

here one to be savoured.<br />

Start with fresh fi sh and<br />

round off your meal with<br />

some of the island’s<br />

buranelli biscuits.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Caff è<br />

Florian (56–59 Piazza<br />

San Marco, San Marco,<br />

tel: 041 520 5641) Be<br />

transported back in time<br />

at this famous – and<br />

costly – café, which has<br />

welcomed numerous<br />

illustrious clients since<br />

it opened in 1720. The<br />

classic piano and string<br />

ensembles add to the<br />

unique atmosphere.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Caff è<br />

Rosso (2963 Campo<br />

Santa Margherita,<br />

Dorsoduro, tel: 041 528<br />

7998) A great place for<br />

watching the comings<br />

and goings of Campo<br />

Santa Margherita, this<br />

lively bar holds frequent<br />

concerts. Come back<br />

in the morning for a<br />

frothy cappuccino and a<br />

glimpse of the square’s<br />

daytime persona.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Taverna l’Olandese<br />

Volante (5658 Campo<br />

San Lio, Castello, tel: 041<br />

528 9349) The “Flying<br />

Dutchman” may not be<br />

a traditional Venetian<br />

tavern, but the largely<br />

international clientèle<br />

appreciates the beer<br />

and snacks served in<br />

a fun, contemporary<br />

environment.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Highly skilled<br />

glass engraver Luigi<br />

Camozzo doesn’t limit<br />

himself to standard<br />

methods and designs<br />

– he’s forever trying<br />

new techniques. Pop in<br />

to watch him work and<br />

treat yourself to one of<br />

his beautiful creations<br />

(3 Fondamenta Venier,<br />

tel: 041 736 875).<br />

ROYAL SAN<br />

MARCO<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

The grand hotel lies<br />

off St Mark’s Square.<br />

Such a superb location<br />

combined with the<br />

Venetian interiors<br />

make a magical stay.<br />

From €95, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

SEE Catch the small<br />

exhibition dedicated to<br />

Dutch artist Hieronymus<br />

Bosch (1450–1516).<br />

Thanks to his surrealist,<br />

fantasy themes, he’s<br />

sometimes considered<br />

a forerunner of Salvador<br />

Dalì. Until 20 March<br />

(Palazzo Grimani, 4858<br />

Ramo Grimani, Castello,<br />

tel: 041 241 1507).<br />

GO Night and day,<br />

the area around the<br />

historic Rialto fi sh and<br />

produce market is<br />

one of Venice’s most<br />

animated. Come in the<br />

morning to see stalls<br />

selling the day’s catch<br />

and plenty of juicy local<br />

fruit and veg, and stay<br />

late to relax at some of<br />

the city’s best bars.<br />

ESCAPE Take the train<br />

to Vicenza (45 minutes)<br />

and be inspired by<br />

the Renaissance<br />

architecture, mostly<br />

designed by Andrea<br />

Palladio. Feast your eyes<br />

on the elegant columns<br />

and sweeping lines of<br />

the centre’s palazzi,<br />

and don’t miss the<br />

landmark dome of<br />

the hilltop La Rotonda.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In the days of the<br />

Venetian Republic,<br />

strong links with the<br />

Middle East brought<br />

much to Venice,<br />

including silk and spices<br />

– fundamental to many<br />

gastronomic specialities.<br />

Even the globally famous<br />

tradition of glass-making<br />

was learnt from Arab<br />

countries. To return the<br />

favour, in 1537 Venice<br />

produced the world’s<br />

fi rst printed Koran.<br />

Sarah Lane<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 179<br />

Vienna<br />

Austria<br />

DIALLING CODE +43<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The CAT train<br />

goes to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €9 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Zum<br />

Schwarzen Kameel (5<br />

Bognergasse, tel: 01 533<br />

8125) Eat cheaply but in<br />

aristocratic style at this<br />

longstanding haunt. Tuck<br />

into daintily prepared<br />

sandwiches. Beethoven<br />

is said to have been a<br />

former customer.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Vestibül<br />

(2 Dr Karl Lueger-<br />

Ring, tel: 01 532<br />

4999) If Midge Ure<br />

wanted to reshoot his<br />

video for Vienna, this<br />

opulent venue would<br />

fi t the bill. Housed<br />

in the sumptuous<br />

Burgtheater, this swish<br />

restaurant is a favourite<br />

with opera-goers.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY MAK-Café<br />

(5 Stubenring, tel: 01<br />

714 0121) A super-suave<br />

bar housed in the slick<br />

Museum of Applied<br />

Arts. The waiters can<br />

advise on the best local<br />

Sekt (sparkling wine),<br />

while there’s food on<br />

hand for the famished.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Passage (Corner<br />

of Burgring &<br />

Babenbergasse, tel: 01<br />

961 8800) The Inner<br />

City is notably short on<br />

beatboxes, but Passage,<br />

which occupies a former<br />

pedestrian pass on<br />

the western fringe,<br />

ticks all the boxes for<br />

those in search of<br />

late-night revelry.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP A charming<br />

chocolate shop with<br />

a contemporary slant,<br />

Schokov is the perfect<br />

place to pick up some<br />

souvenirs of the edible<br />

variety. Find it in the<br />

hip Spittelberg district<br />

(20 Siebensterngasse).<br />

SEE Head over to the<br />

Albertina to savour<br />

Roy Lichtenstein’s<br />

drawings from the<br />

1960s. You can check<br />

out the works of the<br />

pop art star throughout<br />

March (1 Albertinaplatz,<br />

albertina.at).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In 1948, director Carol<br />

Reed discovered zither<br />

player Anton Karas in<br />

a Viennese wine<br />

tavern. Having been<br />

hired to create the<br />

soundtrack for<br />

classic movie The Third<br />

Man, Karas became<br />

a global sensation.<br />

Nick Hodge/<br />

vienna-life.com

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