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Venice<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Ibiza, London<br />
(LGW), Lyon, Madrid,<br />
Naples, Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />
Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The ACTV yellow<br />
bus 5 runs to<br />
Piazzale Roma. Tickets:<br />
€2.50 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Ristorante Diana<br />
(2519 Fondamenta<br />
Misericordia,<br />
Cannaregio, tel: 041<br />
715 977) A good choice<br />
for a decent, traditional<br />
meal that doesn’t cost<br />
the earth, in a pleasant<br />
canal-side location.<br />
The menu features<br />
a wide range of fi sh and<br />
meat specialities.<br />
UP TO €30 Al<br />
Mascaron (5225 Calle<br />
Longa Santa Maria<br />
Formosa, Castello, tel:<br />
041 522 5995) There’s a<br />
great atmosphere in this<br />
historic hostelry, which is<br />
much frequented by the<br />
locals. Beamed ceilings<br />
and chunky wooden<br />
tables characterise the<br />
décor, while the menu<br />
is a roll-call of classic<br />
Venetian recipes.<br />
UP TO €50 Osteria<br />
La Zucca (1762 Calle<br />
del Tentor, Santa<br />
Croce, tel: 041 524<br />
1570) This charming<br />
Mediterranean-style<br />
place serves some<br />
inspired vegetarian<br />
dishes, but there’s plenty<br />
for hardened carnivores<br />
too. Herbs and spices<br />
abound, including the<br />
homemade desserts<br />
– try the spicy red wine<br />
and raspberry tart.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Al Gatto<br />
Nero (88 Via Giudecca,<br />
Burano, tel: 041 730<br />
120) Excellent Venetian<br />
specialities and a good<br />
wine list – plus a lovely,<br />
peaceful position on<br />
Burano – make a meal<br />
here one to be savoured.<br />
Start with fresh fi sh and<br />
round off your meal with<br />
some of the island’s<br />
buranelli biscuits.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Caff è<br />
Florian (56–59 Piazza<br />
San Marco, San Marco,<br />
tel: 041 520 5641) Be<br />
transported back in time<br />
at this famous – and<br />
costly – café, which has<br />
welcomed numerous<br />
illustrious clients since<br />
it opened in 1720. The<br />
classic piano and string<br />
ensembles add to the<br />
unique atmosphere.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Caff è<br />
Rosso (2963 Campo<br />
Santa Margherita,<br />
Dorsoduro, tel: 041 528<br />
7998) A great place for<br />
watching the comings<br />
and goings of Campo<br />
Santa Margherita, this<br />
lively bar holds frequent<br />
concerts. Come back<br />
in the morning for a<br />
frothy cappuccino and a<br />
glimpse of the square’s<br />
daytime persona.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Taverna l’Olandese<br />
Volante (5658 Campo<br />
San Lio, Castello, tel: 041<br />
528 9349) The “Flying<br />
Dutchman” may not be<br />
a traditional Venetian<br />
tavern, but the largely<br />
international clientèle<br />
appreciates the beer<br />
and snacks served in<br />
a fun, contemporary<br />
environment.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Highly skilled<br />
glass engraver Luigi<br />
Camozzo doesn’t limit<br />
himself to standard<br />
methods and designs<br />
– he’s forever trying<br />
new techniques. Pop in<br />
to watch him work and<br />
treat yourself to one of<br />
his beautiful creations<br />
(3 Fondamenta Venier,<br />
tel: 041 736 875).<br />
ROYAL SAN<br />
MARCO<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
The grand hotel lies<br />
off St Mark’s Square.<br />
Such a superb location<br />
combined with the<br />
Venetian interiors<br />
make a magical stay.<br />
From €95, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
SEE Catch the small<br />
exhibition dedicated to<br />
Dutch artist Hieronymus<br />
Bosch (1450–1516).<br />
Thanks to his surrealist,<br />
fantasy themes, he’s<br />
sometimes considered<br />
a forerunner of Salvador<br />
Dalì. Until 20 March<br />
(Palazzo Grimani, 4858<br />
Ramo Grimani, Castello,<br />
tel: 041 241 1507).<br />
GO Night and day,<br />
the area around the<br />
historic Rialto fi sh and<br />
produce market is<br />
one of Venice’s most<br />
animated. Come in the<br />
morning to see stalls<br />
selling the day’s catch<br />
and plenty of juicy local<br />
fruit and veg, and stay<br />
late to relax at some of<br />
the city’s best bars.<br />
ESCAPE Take the train<br />
to Vicenza (45 minutes)<br />
and be inspired by<br />
the Renaissance<br />
architecture, mostly<br />
designed by Andrea<br />
Palladio. Feast your eyes<br />
on the elegant columns<br />
and sweeping lines of<br />
the centre’s palazzi,<br />
and don’t miss the<br />
landmark dome of<br />
the hilltop La Rotonda.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In the days of the<br />
Venetian Republic,<br />
strong links with the<br />
Middle East brought<br />
much to Venice,<br />
including silk and spices<br />
– fundamental to many<br />
gastronomic specialities.<br />
Even the globally famous<br />
tradition of glass-making<br />
was learnt from Arab<br />
countries. To return the<br />
favour, in 1537 Venice<br />
produced the world’s<br />
fi rst printed Koran.<br />
Sarah Lane<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 179<br />
Vienna<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The CAT train<br />
goes to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €9 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Zum<br />
Schwarzen Kameel (5<br />
Bognergasse, tel: 01 533<br />
8125) Eat cheaply but in<br />
aristocratic style at this<br />
longstanding haunt. Tuck<br />
into daintily prepared<br />
sandwiches. Beethoven<br />
is said to have been a<br />
former customer.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Vestibül<br />
(2 Dr Karl Lueger-<br />
Ring, tel: 01 532<br />
4999) If Midge Ure<br />
wanted to reshoot his<br />
video for Vienna, this<br />
opulent venue would<br />
fi t the bill. Housed<br />
in the sumptuous<br />
Burgtheater, this swish<br />
restaurant is a favourite<br />
with opera-goers.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY MAK-Café<br />
(5 Stubenring, tel: 01<br />
714 0121) A super-suave<br />
bar housed in the slick<br />
Museum of Applied<br />
Arts. The waiters can<br />
advise on the best local<br />
Sekt (sparkling wine),<br />
while there’s food on<br />
hand for the famished.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Passage (Corner<br />
of Burgring &<br />
Babenbergasse, tel: 01<br />
961 8800) The Inner<br />
City is notably short on<br />
beatboxes, but Passage,<br />
which occupies a former<br />
pedestrian pass on<br />
the western fringe,<br />
ticks all the boxes for<br />
those in search of<br />
late-night revelry.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP A charming<br />
chocolate shop with<br />
a contemporary slant,<br />
Schokov is the perfect<br />
place to pick up some<br />
souvenirs of the edible<br />
variety. Find it in the<br />
hip Spittelberg district<br />
(20 Siebensterngasse).<br />
SEE Head over to the<br />
Albertina to savour<br />
Roy Lichtenstein’s<br />
drawings from the<br />
1960s. You can check<br />
out the works of the<br />
pop art star throughout<br />
March (1 Albertinaplatz,<br />
albertina.at).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In 1948, director Carol<br />
Reed discovered zither<br />
player Anton Karas in<br />
a Viennese wine<br />
tavern. Having been<br />
hired to create the<br />
soundtrack for<br />
classic movie The Third<br />
Man, Karas became<br />
a global sensation.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
vienna-life.com