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132 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Düsseldorf<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

London (LGW), Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Trains to the<br />

Hauptbahnhof<br />

leave every 10 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €3.30.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Curry<br />

(2 Hammer Strasse,<br />

tel: 0211 303 2857)<br />

Top-notch sausages,<br />

twice-cooked chips<br />

and a range of sauces<br />

from fruity curry to<br />

aioli ensure the simple<br />

and inexpensive fare at<br />

Curry is very chic.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Tafelspitz 1876 (42A<br />

Grünerstrasse, tel: 0211<br />

171 7361) A former cake<br />

shop reworked by Daniel<br />

Dal-Ben as a Michelinstarred<br />

gourmet<br />

restaurant, Tafelspitz<br />

1876 is the place to feast<br />

on goose liver praline,<br />

oxtail soup with rare ribeye<br />

steak or line-caught<br />

zander with warm Black<br />

Forest ham gelée.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Brauerei<br />

Schumacher (123<br />

Oststrasse, tel: 0211 828<br />

9020) You won’t get the<br />

Schumacher brewery’s<br />

traditional Düsseldorf Alt<br />

beer fresher than on the<br />

site where it’s brewed.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Anaconda Lounge (11<br />

Andreasstrasse, tel:<br />

0172 272 7252) Original<br />

1960s design meets<br />

cocktails and electro<br />

to create a club in<br />

miniature at Anaconda<br />

Lounge, open until<br />

5am on Fridays<br />

and for Saturday’s<br />

Elektromeisterei.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP This month<br />

the GDS international<br />

shoe fair is in town, but<br />

unless you’re a trade<br />

visitor you won’t get in.<br />

Head instead for Jerry’s<br />

Exclusiv, where you’ll fi nd<br />

luxurious Lobb footwear<br />

for men and fi ne Italian<br />

shoes for women (Kö-<br />

Galerie, 58 Königsallee,<br />

jerrys-exclusiv.de).<br />

SEE Carnival is known<br />

as the “fi fth season”<br />

here. It climaxes with<br />

Rosenmontag on 7<br />

March, when a giant<br />

parade makes its way<br />

through the city, and<br />

costumes and silliness<br />

are the order of the day<br />

(comitee-duesseldorfercarneval.de).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

It was here in 1970<br />

that Ralf Hütter and<br />

Florian Schneider<br />

came together to form<br />

celebrated synthesizer<br />

pioneers Kraftwerk.<br />

Neville Walker<br />

Edinburgh<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Basel-<br />

Mulhouse, Belfast (BFS),<br />

Bristol, Cologne, Cyprus<br />

(Paphos), Geneva, Krakow,<br />

Lisbon, London (LGW,<br />

LTN, STN), Lyon, Madrid,<br />

Milan (MXP), Munich,<br />

Majorca, Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £15.<br />

The Airlink 100<br />

service goes to<br />

the centre. Tickets: £6.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Illegal<br />

Jack’s South West Grill<br />

(113–117 Lothian Road,<br />

tel: 0131 622 7499) This<br />

is a big, plainly set-out<br />

eatery that gets its Tex-<br />

Mex style exactly right.<br />

It isn’t sophisticated, but<br />

it’s certainly fi lling, fresh<br />

and friendly, with the<br />

accent as much on the<br />

food as it is on being fast.<br />

UP TO €30 The<br />

Magnum Restaurant<br />

& Bar (1 Albany Street,<br />

tel: 0131 557 4366) The<br />

Magnum delivers strong,<br />

old-fashioned service<br />

and a Scottish menu<br />

that gives a modern<br />

twist to the suitably<br />

traditional element that’s<br />

in keeping with its New<br />

Town setting. Satisfyingly<br />

comfy dining on all levels,<br />

with a great wine list.<br />

UP TO €50 Calistoga<br />

Restaurant & Sideways<br />

Wines (70 Rose Street<br />

North Lane, tel: 0131 225<br />

1233) Bang in the heart<br />

of the New Town, but<br />

hidden away down a tiny<br />

lane, this is Californian<br />

dining of the kind that<br />

likes local sourcing and<br />

Pacifi c Rim fl avours.<br />

The choice isn’t vast so<br />

the attention to detail is<br />

strong, with the steamed<br />

bass particularly piquant.<br />

The wine list is long<br />

but aff ordable.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Castle<br />

Terrace (33–35 Castle<br />

Terrace, tel: 0131 229<br />

1222) It only opened<br />

last July, but a “rising<br />

star” in the <strong>2011</strong><br />

Michelin Guide marks<br />

out this uncluttered,<br />

sophisticated restaurant<br />

for future greatness.<br />

Chef and patron<br />

Dominic Jack holds true<br />

to mentor Tom Kitchin’s<br />

from-nature-to-plate<br />

philosophy, bringing<br />

techniques learned<br />

in starred French<br />

restaurants to<br />

Scottish produce.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Hyde<br />

Out (2 Fountainbridge<br />

Square, tel: 0131 221<br />

0632) A classy newstyle<br />

bar on the canal<br />

waterfront at Edinburgh<br />

Quay, where the bespoke<br />

designer trimmings are<br />

as noteworthy as the<br />

superior menu. A cool<br />

place to lounge with<br />

cocktails and fi ne wines.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Bannerman’s Bar (212<br />

Cowgate, tel: 0131 556<br />

3254) Barrel-vaulted<br />

ceilings don’t improve<br />

the acoustics of this<br />

vibrant haunt for local<br />

bands, but they help<br />

keep the enthusiasm<br />

levels high. There’s live<br />

music most evenings,<br />

for those who like it loud.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Pivo<br />

(2 Calton Road, tel: 0131<br />

557 2925) Edinburgh’s<br />

up-and-coming DJs<br />

display their mixing skills<br />

every night at this stylish<br />

and lively bar that’s open<br />

from 4pm to 3am. It’s<br />

a good central pre-club<br />

hangout, or a great place<br />

to stay all night.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Threadbare is an<br />

Aladdin’s cave of retro,<br />

kitsch and collectable<br />

clothing, tucked away<br />

in a basement at the<br />

bottom of Broughton<br />

Street. Perfect for a<br />

TEN HILL<br />

PLACE HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Find a little peace and<br />

quiet among the<br />

hustle and bustle<br />

of the city at this<br />

stylish and tastefully<br />

decorated hotel.<br />

From €74, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

unique bargain item<br />

to set off an outfi t – or<br />

a piece of designer<br />

cashmere (66A<br />

Broughton Street).<br />

SEE There’s sensuality<br />

all month at the Royal<br />

Lyceum Theatre, with<br />

Stella Quines’ genrebusting,<br />

sexy ensemble<br />

piece Age of Arousal<br />

until 12 March, and Sue<br />

Glover’s Marilyn – about<br />

Monroe and Simone<br />

Signoret – from 15<br />

March (Grindlay Street,<br />

tel: 0131 248 4848,<br />

lyceum.org.uk).<br />

GO South of the city<br />

centre, on the 41 bus<br />

route, Blackford Hill<br />

is home to the Royal<br />

Observatory and its<br />

visitors’ centre. One of<br />

the city’s better places to<br />

blow away the cobwebs,<br />

with stunning panoramic<br />

views of the city.<br />

ESCAPE Linlithgow,<br />

20 minutes east of<br />

Edinburgh by train, was<br />

a favoured stopping<br />

place for Scottish<br />

royalty on the road<br />

to Stirling. Linlithgow<br />

Palace was the nursery<br />

for Scottish royalty<br />

in the 16th century,<br />

including Mary Queen<br />

of Scots, although this<br />

impressive building in<br />

beautiful parkland is<br />

now largely ruined.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Hyde Out’s toile<br />

wallpaper, originally<br />

designed for the<br />

Edinburgh International<br />

Festival, caused<br />

outrage with its realistic<br />

depiction of vagrants<br />

and drunks among of<br />

the city’s monuments.<br />

Thom Dibdin

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