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the easy-going and<br />
diverse crowd. There<br />
are both non-smoking<br />
and smoking areas.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Madame Moustache<br />
(5–7 Quai au Bois à<br />
Brûler, tel: 04 8553<br />
4494) Tremendously<br />
popular since it<br />
opened in 2010, this<br />
venue manages to<br />
combine a bohemian<br />
atmosphere with<br />
great live music. Once<br />
the bands are done,<br />
DJs take over with<br />
an eclectic mix to<br />
make sure the party<br />
continues late into<br />
the night.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Flat (12 Rue de<br />
la Reinette, tel: 04<br />
9590 3203) As the<br />
name of this bar<br />
indicates, the top<br />
fl oor is decorated to<br />
look just like a fl at.<br />
You can enjoy a<br />
cocktail while relaxing<br />
on the bed or even<br />
sit in the bath. The<br />
music pumps late<br />
into the night and<br />
drink prices are<br />
subject to stock<br />
exchange variations.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP With glazed<br />
arcaded storefronts<br />
and light pouring in<br />
through the glass roof,<br />
the Galeries Royales<br />
St-Hubert is defi nitely<br />
worth a stroll even if<br />
you’re not shopping.<br />
If you are, however,<br />
this 19th-century<br />
arcade has plenty of<br />
luxurious shops, cafés<br />
and restaurants.<br />
SEE Check out the<br />
European quarter<br />
<br />
<br />
near Schuman<br />
roundabout –<br />
the European<br />
Commission, Council<br />
and Parliament are<br />
all within a few<br />
minutes’ walk of each<br />
another. While you’re<br />
in the area, take<br />
a trip to the Royal<br />
Belgian Institute of<br />
Natural Sciences,<br />
which has a great<br />
exhibition called<br />
BiodiverCity on<br />
throughout March<br />
(29 Rue Vautier,<br />
naturalsciences.be).<br />
GO Meander<br />
in the Parc du<br />
Cinquantenaire<br />
and take a look at<br />
the triumphal arch<br />
erected in 1905.<br />
Around the park<br />
there are various<br />
museums and the<br />
city’s largest mosque.<br />
ESCAPE Head<br />
to Ghent and walk<br />
around its car-free<br />
area – the largest in<br />
Belgium – and you’ll<br />
soon fi nd out why it’s<br />
often said to be as<br />
beautiful as Bruges.<br />
Check out St Bavo<br />
cathedral and the<br />
church of St Nicholas.<br />
Once you’re done,<br />
hop on a tour boat<br />
and ask the guide<br />
about the city’s<br />
secrets. One of the<br />
best things about<br />
Ghent is that it’s<br />
barely 35 minutes<br />
by train from Brussels.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Brussels truly is an<br />
international city –<br />
27% of the population<br />
are foreigners.<br />
Gaspard Sebag<br />
Bucharest<br />
Romania<br />
DIALLING CODE +40<br />
CURRENCY Leu (RON)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Madrid,<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs RON100.<br />
Bus 783 leaves<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: RON8.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Taverna<br />
La Zavat (16 Strada<br />
Popa Nan, tel: 021 252<br />
2956) Currently the<br />
city’s most talked about<br />
seafood restaurant, La<br />
Zavat is packed most<br />
evenings with small<br />
groups of friends sharing<br />
big plates of fi sh and<br />
seafood. There are also<br />
great salads and a fi ne<br />
selection of local wine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Osho<br />
(19–21 Bulevardul<br />
Primaverii, tel: 021 568<br />
3031) At this butcher’s<br />
shop you can pick your<br />
chops or steak (all the<br />
meat is sourced in<br />
Romania), then send<br />
them to be cooked just<br />
how you like. Set in<br />
Bucharest’s swankiest<br />
neighbourhood, prices<br />
are high but value for<br />
money is guaranteed.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Divan (46–<br />
48 Strada Franceza, tel:<br />
021 312 3034) Possibly<br />
the hippest café in the<br />
Old Town, this place<br />
is usually packed with<br />
young locals drinking<br />
coff ee and cocktails and<br />
smoking hookah pipes<br />
from the comfort of<br />
some funky armchairs.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kulturhaus (4 Strada<br />
Sf Vineri, tel: 021 313<br />
5592) This two-level<br />
arthouse club attracts<br />
a young, friendly crowd<br />
of party people. Expect<br />
a diff erent event each<br />
night of the week,<br />
from live rock and<br />
folk bands to DJs<br />
and themed parties.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Everything sold<br />
at Idelier – a one-stop<br />
shop for clothes, shoes,<br />
accessories and quirky<br />
bits and pieces – is<br />
made and designed in<br />
Romania (1 Bulevardul<br />
Lascar Cartagiu).<br />
SEE Casa Melik is<br />
the oldest house in<br />
Bucharest. Built between<br />
1750 and 1760, today<br />
it’s home to a museum<br />
dedicated to the<br />
Romanian early cubist<br />
artist Theodor Pallady<br />
(22 Strada Spatarului).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Romania’s witches now<br />
have to pay tax following<br />
the introduction of a<br />
labour law that defi nes<br />
fortune-telling and<br />
astrology as professions.<br />
Craig Turp<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 125<br />
Budapest<br />
Hungary<br />
DIALLING CODE +36<br />
CURRENCY Forint (HUF)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Dortmund,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW,<br />
LTN), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
HUF3,500–HUF5,400.<br />
Trains leave for<br />
Western station.<br />
Tickets: HUF455.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 APA Cuka<br />
(5 Horánszky Utca) APA<br />
Cuka is an arty space in<br />
a restored pipe factory<br />
that combines artists’<br />
studios, a live music bar<br />
ART’OTEL<br />
BUDAPEST<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
True to its name, the<br />
Art’Otel adds a real<br />
arty fl avour to your<br />
trip, and has a superb<br />
location on the banks<br />
of the Danube.<br />
From €89, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
and a fun restaurant with<br />
a Hungarian menu.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Babel Delikát Étterem<br />
(1 Szarka Utca, tel:<br />
338 2143) While many<br />
restaurants near here<br />
are tourist traps, Babel<br />
is an exception. The<br />
food is contemporary,<br />
and the kitchen really<br />
shines with various<br />
tasting menus on off er.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Muvész<br />
Kávéház (29 Andrássy<br />
Utca) This coff eehouse<br />
is one of Budapest’s<br />
classic cafés, beloved<br />
among artists who come<br />
for the espresso.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Garzon Café (24<br />
Wesselényi Utca) A<br />
garzon refers to a type<br />
of tatty apartment. This<br />
bar, however, oozes<br />
shabby-chic style, and<br />
is a fun place to spend<br />
the evening.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP A Budapestbased<br />
Russian shoe<br />
designer sells her<br />
footwear creations at<br />
Siberia. She makes<br />
custom designs too<br />
(19 Wesselényi Utca).<br />
GO Check out where<br />
ruinpubs (Budapest’s<br />
retro pubs) fi rst started,<br />
at Fogas Ház at 51<br />
Akácfa Utca and Szimpla<br />
Kert at 14 Kazinczy Utca<br />
in the VI district.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Unicum, the Hungarian<br />
herbal liqueur, is made<br />
from a top-secret recipe<br />
that contains more than<br />
40 diff erent herbs.<br />
Carolyn Bánfalvi