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the easy-going and<br />

diverse crowd. There<br />

are both non-smoking<br />

and smoking areas.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Madame Moustache<br />

(5–7 Quai au Bois à<br />

Brûler, tel: 04 8553<br />

4494) Tremendously<br />

popular since it<br />

opened in 2010, this<br />

venue manages to<br />

combine a bohemian<br />

atmosphere with<br />

great live music. Once<br />

the bands are done,<br />

DJs take over with<br />

an eclectic mix to<br />

make sure the party<br />

continues late into<br />

the night.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Flat (12 Rue de<br />

la Reinette, tel: 04<br />

9590 3203) As the<br />

name of this bar<br />

indicates, the top<br />

fl oor is decorated to<br />

look just like a fl at.<br />

You can enjoy a<br />

cocktail while relaxing<br />

on the bed or even<br />

sit in the bath. The<br />

music pumps late<br />

into the night and<br />

drink prices are<br />

subject to stock<br />

exchange variations.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP With glazed<br />

arcaded storefronts<br />

and light pouring in<br />

through the glass roof,<br />

the Galeries Royales<br />

St-Hubert is defi nitely<br />

worth a stroll even if<br />

you’re not shopping.<br />

If you are, however,<br />

this 19th-century<br />

arcade has plenty of<br />

luxurious shops, cafés<br />

and restaurants.<br />

SEE Check out the<br />

European quarter<br />

<br />

<br />

near Schuman<br />

roundabout –<br />

the European<br />

Commission, Council<br />

and Parliament are<br />

all within a few<br />

minutes’ walk of each<br />

another. While you’re<br />

in the area, take<br />

a trip to the Royal<br />

Belgian Institute of<br />

Natural Sciences,<br />

which has a great<br />

exhibition called<br />

BiodiverCity on<br />

throughout March<br />

(29 Rue Vautier,<br />

naturalsciences.be).<br />

GO Meander<br />

in the Parc du<br />

Cinquantenaire<br />

and take a look at<br />

the triumphal arch<br />

erected in 1905.<br />

Around the park<br />

there are various<br />

museums and the<br />

city’s largest mosque.<br />

ESCAPE Head<br />

to Ghent and walk<br />

around its car-free<br />

area – the largest in<br />

Belgium – and you’ll<br />

soon fi nd out why it’s<br />

often said to be as<br />

beautiful as Bruges.<br />

Check out St Bavo<br />

cathedral and the<br />

church of St Nicholas.<br />

Once you’re done,<br />

hop on a tour boat<br />

and ask the guide<br />

about the city’s<br />

secrets. One of the<br />

best things about<br />

Ghent is that it’s<br />

barely 35 minutes<br />

by train from Brussels.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Brussels truly is an<br />

international city –<br />

27% of the population<br />

are foreigners.<br />

Gaspard Sebag<br />

Bucharest<br />

Romania<br />

DIALLING CODE +40<br />

CURRENCY Leu (RON)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Madrid,<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs RON100.<br />

Bus 783 leaves<br />

every 30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: RON8.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Taverna<br />

La Zavat (16 Strada<br />

Popa Nan, tel: 021 252<br />

2956) Currently the<br />

city’s most talked about<br />

seafood restaurant, La<br />

Zavat is packed most<br />

evenings with small<br />

groups of friends sharing<br />

big plates of fi sh and<br />

seafood. There are also<br />

great salads and a fi ne<br />

selection of local wine.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Osho<br />

(19–21 Bulevardul<br />

Primaverii, tel: 021 568<br />

3031) At this butcher’s<br />

shop you can pick your<br />

chops or steak (all the<br />

meat is sourced in<br />

Romania), then send<br />

them to be cooked just<br />

how you like. Set in<br />

Bucharest’s swankiest<br />

neighbourhood, prices<br />

are high but value for<br />

money is guaranteed.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Divan (46–<br />

48 Strada Franceza, tel:<br />

021 312 3034) Possibly<br />

the hippest café in the<br />

Old Town, this place<br />

is usually packed with<br />

young locals drinking<br />

coff ee and cocktails and<br />

smoking hookah pipes<br />

from the comfort of<br />

some funky armchairs.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Kulturhaus (4 Strada<br />

Sf Vineri, tel: 021 313<br />

5592) This two-level<br />

arthouse club attracts<br />

a young, friendly crowd<br />

of party people. Expect<br />

a diff erent event each<br />

night of the week,<br />

from live rock and<br />

folk bands to DJs<br />

and themed parties.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Everything sold<br />

at Idelier – a one-stop<br />

shop for clothes, shoes,<br />

accessories and quirky<br />

bits and pieces – is<br />

made and designed in<br />

Romania (1 Bulevardul<br />

Lascar Cartagiu).<br />

SEE Casa Melik is<br />

the oldest house in<br />

Bucharest. Built between<br />

1750 and 1760, today<br />

it’s home to a museum<br />

dedicated to the<br />

Romanian early cubist<br />

artist Theodor Pallady<br />

(22 Strada Spatarului).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Romania’s witches now<br />

have to pay tax following<br />

the introduction of a<br />

labour law that defi nes<br />

fortune-telling and<br />

astrology as professions.<br />

Craig Turp<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 125<br />

Budapest<br />

Hungary<br />

DIALLING CODE +36<br />

CURRENCY Forint (HUF)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Dortmund,<br />

Geneva, London (LGW,<br />

LTN), Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

HUF3,500–HUF5,400.<br />

Trains leave for<br />

Western station.<br />

Tickets: HUF455.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 APA Cuka<br />

(5 Horánszky Utca) APA<br />

Cuka is an arty space in<br />

a restored pipe factory<br />

that combines artists’<br />

studios, a live music bar<br />

ART’OTEL<br />

BUDAPEST<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

True to its name, the<br />

Art’Otel adds a real<br />

arty fl avour to your<br />

trip, and has a superb<br />

location on the banks<br />

of the Danube.<br />

From €89, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

and a fun restaurant with<br />

a Hungarian menu.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Babel Delikát Étterem<br />

(1 Szarka Utca, tel:<br />

338 2143) While many<br />

restaurants near here<br />

are tourist traps, Babel<br />

is an exception. The<br />

food is contemporary,<br />

and the kitchen really<br />

shines with various<br />

tasting menus on off er.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Muvész<br />

Kávéház (29 Andrássy<br />

Utca) This coff eehouse<br />

is one of Budapest’s<br />

classic cafés, beloved<br />

among artists who come<br />

for the espresso.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Garzon Café (24<br />

Wesselényi Utca) A<br />

garzon refers to a type<br />

of tatty apartment. This<br />

bar, however, oozes<br />

shabby-chic style, and<br />

is a fun place to spend<br />

the evening.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP A Budapestbased<br />

Russian shoe<br />

designer sells her<br />

footwear creations at<br />

Siberia. She makes<br />

custom designs too<br />

(19 Wesselényi Utca).<br />

GO Check out where<br />

ruinpubs (Budapest’s<br />

retro pubs) fi rst started,<br />

at Fogas Ház at 51<br />

Akácfa Utca and Szimpla<br />

Kert at 14 Kazinczy Utca<br />

in the VI district.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Unicum, the Hungarian<br />

herbal liqueur, is made<br />

from a top-secret recipe<br />

that contains more than<br />

40 diff erent herbs.<br />

Carolyn Bánfalvi

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