march-2011

FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE
CROSS-
COUNTRY
SKIERS
DON’T NEED
TO WAIT
FOR LIFTS
younger classmates, especially going uphill.
In fact, if there had to be a low point of the
day it came while being overtaken on
a path by an arthritic Labrador as Erika
and Christian scooted quickly upwards.
By contrast, the high point was lunch on
the sunny terrace of Chez Lenvers (Place
Centrale, tel: +33 (0)4 5074 0130) in Avoriaz:
a plate of tartifl ette (potatoes, cream, bacon
and reblochon cheese) accompanied by
a large, steaming glass of vin chaud.
During the afternoon things started to
click. There are almost 100km of crosscountry
tracks in this area, so you really can
62 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11
have the back country to yourself even when
the pistes are crowded. And while ski and
boot hire average a very reasonable €11 a day,
you don’t even necessarily need a lift pass
– Morzine’s network of free shuttle buses
can drop you at the start of the best tracks,
for example at the bottom of the Vallée de
la Manche. Group lessons with the French
Ski School (esf.net/en) start at €55 a day
including lunch, so it makes an affordable
option if you want to take a break from
throwing yourself downhill.
Over the next few days my style
improved, although I didn’t see any overall
hardening of my thigh muscles into the
sort of shape that would send the female
population of the Alps into a collective
swoon. I will defi nitely be back next year to
give myself a boost through the winter, but I
think I’ll be returning to my favoured classic
style rather than skating, which should at
least allow elderly French gentlemen to enjoy
their afternoon walk without the risk of
serious bodily harm.
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