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FEATURES | MARRAKECH<br />

appeal runs far beyond the shelves of used<br />

books and free Wi-Fi. This is a place where<br />

you can slip into local life, relaxing into the<br />

rhythm of the neighbourhood.<br />

Another excellent place to watch<br />

Guéliz life go by is the legendary Café les<br />

Négociants (Avenue Mohammed V, tel:<br />

+212 (0)524 435 782). A pavement eatery<br />

par excellence, it stands at the heart of the<br />

district and serves glasses of tar-like café<br />

noir. Sit there for half an hour and waves<br />

of street sellers, shoe cleaners and<br />

mendicants weave between the tables,<br />

gently vying for your attention.<br />

But Guéliz isn’t just for the casual<br />

consumer. Over the past decade, it has<br />

erupted on to the style scene, and boasts<br />

74 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

galleries, bars and restaurants that would<br />

be the talk of the town even if they were in<br />

London, New York or Shanghai. Eclectic<br />

and modern, Gallerie Rê (Résidence Al<br />

Andalous III, Angle Rues de la Mosquée<br />

et Ibn Toumert no 3, galeriere.com) is<br />

patronised by art lovers from Morocco<br />

and beyond. An invitation to one of its<br />

viewings is as sought after as one of Willy<br />

Wonka’s golden tickets, and it’s a sure place<br />

to rub shoulders with fashionable locals<br />

and the international jet-set.<br />

One of the fi nest places to dine is<br />

the Table du Marché (4 rue de Temple<br />

Hivernage, tel: +212 (0)524 424 100), where<br />

chef Christophe Leroy conjures magic with<br />

local produce found, as the name would<br />

suggest, in Marrakech’s markets. Another<br />

gem, the Grand Café de la Poste (Boulevard<br />

El Mansour Eddahbi, tel: +212 (0)524<br />

433 038), is a local favourite and offers<br />

extraordinarily stylish cuisine with prices<br />

that won’t break the bank.<br />

After dinner, there’s no shortage of<br />

places to drink and dance. The Yellow Sub<br />

(82 Avenue Hassan II, tel: +212 (0)672 569<br />

864) attracts the international crowd with<br />

its Beatles-inspired psychedelia, while Jad<br />

Mahal (10 Rue Haroune Erracid, tel: +212<br />

(0)524 436 984) offers a fusion of exotic<br />

Moroccan and Indian styles. The crosscultural<br />

entertainment continues at Le<br />

Comptoir Darna (Avenue Echouhada,<br />

tel: +212 (0)524 437 702), with

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