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GETTING<br />

AROUND IN<br />

AMMAN<br />

Amman was originally built on seven<br />

hills, but it now sprawls across a wide<br />

area. In general, east Amman is poorer<br />

and less developed, so you’re likely<br />

to spend most of your time in west<br />

Amman, where almost all the hotels are<br />

located. The map opposite won’t get<br />

you from A to B, but it should at least<br />

give fi rst-time visitors a rough idea of<br />

where the major areas are and how they<br />

relate to one another. Happy exploring!<br />

SWEIFIYA<br />

A glamorous quarter of fashion<br />

boutiques and shopping malls.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ WAKALAT STREET<br />

ABDOUN<br />

Head to this ritzy, upscale area for<br />

restaurants, cafés and bars.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ ABDOUN CIRCLE<br />

SHMEISANI<br />

This district of banks and offi ces has<br />

some popular pavement cafés. Take<br />

a trip up here and rub shoulders with<br />

local workers on their break.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ ELIA ABU MADI STREET<br />

1870s<br />

Persecution of Muslims<br />

in Russia leads to waves<br />

of refugees entering<br />

Syria and Jordan, with<br />

many settling in the<br />

then-abandoned Roman<br />

ruins at Amman.<br />

1917<br />

Prince Faisal and British<br />

offi cer TE Lawrence (of<br />

Arabia) launch the Arab<br />

Revolt, successfully<br />

ejecting Ottoman<br />

Turkish armies from<br />

the Arab lands of the<br />

Middle East.<br />

JABAL AMMAN<br />

A broad, hilly area of villas, apartment<br />

blocks, offi ces and embassies, marked<br />

by numbered traffi c intersections from<br />

1st to 8th Circle. Off 1st Circle is a string<br />

of sociable, buzzy cafés with a pleasant<br />

neighbourhood vibe – well worth a stop<br />

on your travels around the city.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ RAINBOW STREET<br />

JABAL AL-WEIBDEH<br />

A quiet, residential neighbourhood<br />

which is home to lots of churches and<br />

cultural institutions, including Jordan’s<br />

National Gallery.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ PARIS SQUARE<br />

1967<br />

Israel invades and<br />

occupies Jordanianheld<br />

territory on the<br />

West Bank of the River<br />

Jordan, including holy<br />

sites in Jerusalem and<br />

Bethlehem.<br />

1994<br />

King Hussein of Jordan<br />

and Israeli prime<br />

minister Yitzhak Rabin<br />

sign a full peace treaty.<br />

FEATURES | AMMAN<br />

JABAL AL-QALA’A<br />

“Citadel Hill” looms high above<br />

Downtown, topped by the remains of<br />

a Roman temple and an early Islamic<br />

palace complex.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ THE CITADEL<br />

DOWNTOWN<br />

This is without doubt the heart of<br />

the city. You’ll fi nd the Roman theatre<br />

and antiquities here, as well as the<br />

souks and the bustling street life that<br />

comes with them. Any trip to Amman<br />

should include at least one visit to this<br />

popular area.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ KING FAISAL STREET<br />

A NOBLE DYNASTY<br />

JORDAN IS OFFICIALLY “THE HASHEMITE KINGDOM OF JORDAN” (OR “HKJ” ON CAR BUMPER<br />

STICKERS). THE HASHEMITE DYNASTY ORIGINALLY RULED MECCA, THE HOLIEST CITY IN<br />

ISLAM, BUT NOW COMPRISES JORDAN’S ROYAL FAMILY. THE CURRENT KING, ABDULLAH II,<br />

IS THE 43RD-GENERATION DIRECT DESCENDANT OF THE PROPHET MUHAMMAD.<br />

1999<br />

On the death of King<br />

Hussein, his eldest son<br />

accedes to the throne as<br />

King Abdullah II.<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 57

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