march-2011

PHOTO © 4CORNERS
Sipping an espresso in a shady corner of
the square, you can properly take in the
half-whitewashed building and ponder
the city’s lucky escape.
Unlike many other towns in the
Algarve, Faro wasn’t too badly damaged
by the earthquake, and it escaped
the ensuing tsunami thanks to the
vast swathes of sand and mud that
protected it from the sea. The natural
sand barriers that stand between Faro
and the Atlantic are still around, and
from spring onwards locals go down
there to swim, sunbathe and unwind.
The most popular, and the only one
you can drive to directly, is Praia de
Faro, a huge spit of golden-yellow sand
that’s bounded by gentle waves on one
side and a tranquil blue lagoon on the
other. Stop in at Camané (tel: +351 289
817 539), an intimate little gourmet
restaurant that sits next to the beach,
to enjoy specialities such as rice with
razor clams and a magnifi cent lobster
stew. The food is fi t for a king – and not
just metaphorically either – the Spanish
monarch is one of a growing list of
celebrities who’ve dined here.
If you want to get even further away
from the crowds, head to the Porta
FEATURES | FARO
Nova pier. From here you can take
a ferry across to the sublime Ilha
Deserta (ilha-deserta.com), part of the
breathtakingly beautiful Ria Formosa
National Park. The most southerly island
off Portugal’s mainland, this deserted
haven stretches for almost 10km, with
little more for visitors to do than enjoy
a leisurely stroll along the boardwalk,
languish in the sun, or watch the local
birdlife – including fl amingos and terns
– from the pristine beaches. If you go
now before the summer rush you’re likely
to have the whole island to yourself. Take
a picnic or eat at the eco-friendly
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 65