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clearer as dawn brightens into day. The men spread out to<br />

watch points on all sides of the roof, eyes skyward, scanning<br />

for avian life. Telescopes are set up on tripods and binoculars<br />

fi xed to faces. None of the usual city noise reaches them from<br />

below, but all the time there’s the roar of fans and the rumble<br />

of air-conditioning units. The roof is a cluttered space, an outlet<br />

for the machines that keep the building functioning, and the<br />

birders have to be careful where they tread. It’s certainly not<br />

the familiar terrain of a hilltop or secluded hide.<br />

The view takes your breath away. London has never<br />

looked so glorious. For a good while I can’t help but just stand<br />

and stare, trying to fi nd all the landmarks that I recognise<br />

as making up my city. I’m also awestruck at the dedication<br />

of those who climb the 600 feet up here every week, at this<br />

unearthly hour, to birdwatch. Such intrepid urban adventuring<br />

before the working day even begins is impressive.<br />

David Lindo is the brains behind what has been<br />

christened the Tower 42 Bird Study Group. But how on earth<br />

did he manage to persuade the building’s management to let<br />

him on to the roof? “It came about by luck really,” he admits.<br />

“I’d been looking for a vantage point for two or three years<br />

and I caught them on a good day. Perhaps surprisingly,<br />

they’ve been brilliant hosts. I guess it gives their building<br />

a unique edge – we’ve turned the roof into kind of a nature<br />

« Avant leur journée de travail,<br />

ces intrépides aventuriers urbains<br />

gravissent 183 mètres pour assouvir<br />

leur passion des oiseaux »<br />

102 METROPOLITAN<br />

Thrush<br />

Grive<br />

reserve. It’s an amazing thing being up here,<br />

looking out over London.”<br />

The birders started coming up here in spring.<br />

Because it was an unprecedented project, they<br />

had no idea what to expect. Lindo says the<br />

season was a good one, despite the weather being<br />

rather unkind. They recorded an array of species<br />

including rarities like the honey buzzard and red<br />

kite. They saw peregrine falcons every session,<br />

with six pairs regularly passing the tower.<br />

During four hours on the roof, we see one of<br />

these handsome birds of prey sitting on Tower<br />

Bridge and another on Tate Modern. Once<br />

threatened with extinction, the peregrine is<br />

now thriving in the built-up London landscape,<br />

which is similar in shape and scale to its natural<br />

one of cliffs and mountains.<br />

In autumn the hope is to see<br />

species migrating: small birds<br />

such as starling, redwing and<br />

brambling that will be heading<br />

to the UK for winter, or the likes<br />

of redstart, swallow and house<br />

martin that will be journeying

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