Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

98
CHAPTER 5 . WHERE TO STAY
are. It could be especially disappointing after you have braved the long, cluttered
walk (particularly from the new tower rooms) to get there. Three whirlpool spas
nestle amid rocks and foliage, there are two sand-volleyball courts, and blueand-white-striped
cabanas (equipped with rafts and misting coolers) can be
rented for $100 and up per day. The 18-hole championship Rio Secco golf
course was designed by Rees Jones.
3700 W. Flamingo Rd. (at I-15), Las Vegas, NV 89103.& 888/752-9746 or 702/777-7777. Fax 702/777-7611.
www.playrio.com. 2,582 units. Sun–Thurs $90 and up double-occupancy suite, Fri–Sat $140 and up doubleoccupancy
suite. Extra person $30, no discount for children. Inquire about golf packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free
self- and valet parking. Amenities: Casino; showrooms; 13 restaurants; 4 outdoor pools; golf course; health
club and spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; video arcade; concierge; car-rental desk; business center; shopping arcade; 24-hr.
room service; in-room massage; laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms.
In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron and board, safe.
TI at The Mirage Huh? What happened to Treasure Island? What happened
to the pirates? Why, Vegas grew up, that’s what. Or, rather, it wants the
kids it once actively tried to court to grow up, or at least, not come around until
they are able to drink and gamble properly.
Originally the most modern family-friendly hotel, the former Treasure Island
was a blown-up version of Disneyland’s Pirates of the Caribbean. But that’s all
behind them now, and the name change is there to make sure you understand
this is a grown-up, sophisticated resort. There might still be the odd pirate element
here and there, but only because someone absent-mindedly missed it in a
recent ruthless purging of the last remnants. The latest victim is the pirate stunt
show out front; as we write this, it was being shut down, reconceived, and will,
by the time you read this, have reopened with the addition of, and we did not
make this up, “sexy dancers” who will “battle the pirates.” Right.
To be fair, none of this matters a whit, unless, like us, you got a kick out of
the skulls and crossbones, and treasure chests bursting with jewels and gold, that
originally decorated the place. What remains, after they stripped the pirate gilt,
is such a nice place to stay that in some ways, it even outranks its older sister,
The Mirage. The well-sized rooms pretty much follow the pattern of The
Mirage—modified French Regency with a mélange of patterns, but the monochromatic
color (many shades of gold) tones it down, and overall, while not distinctive,
per se, they are much nicer than most in their price range. Good
bathrooms feature a large soaking tub—a bather’s delight. Best of all, Strip-side
rooms have a view of the pirate battle (however it’s going to end up looking)—
views are best from the sixth floor on up.
The hotel’s premier restaurant, the Buccaneer Bay Club, is described in
chapter 6, as are the hotel’s buffet offerings. And we’re incredibly enthusiastic
about the new branch of Los Angeles’s Canter’s deli that opened as this book
went to press. The Battle Bar, in the casino near the race and sports book, airs
athletic events on TV monitors overhead and offers live music Tuesday through
Sunday nights. More importantly, it provides patio seating overlooking Buccaneer
Bay; for the best possible view of what’s now going to be called “The Sirens
of TI,” arrive at least 45 minutes before the show and snag a table by the railing.
Treasure Island is home to Cirque du Soleil’s Mystère (p. 248), one of the best
shows in town.
A free tram travels between Treasure Island and The Mirage almost around
the clock. For a good photo op, sit in the front of the first car: As you leave the
loading dock, note how The Mirage, palm trees, and a bit of the New York–New
York skyline are framed in an attractive, and surreal, manner.