Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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CHAPTER 6 . WHERE TO DINE
Commander’s Palace CREOLE This is an offshoot of the famous New
Orleans restaurant, which is considered the best in that town, and sometimes
even the best in the country. We did not expect quite that high a level of, well,
anything, from this branch, but we did expect a lot, and they came through. It
doesn’t look precisely like the one in New Orleans, so it wasn’t the huge shock to
the system we expected (what city are we in now?), but it does have that classic
handsome old New Orleans restaurant wood paneling, big chandeliers, and that
sort of thing. Service is nearly as good as at the original; no group of waiters hovering
to fulfill every whim and remove every crumb, but we hardly felt neglected.
And the food was, if not yet as spectacular as that of its elder cousin’s, just about
the best we’ve had in Vegas yet, with not one thing, from appetizer to dessert, that
disappointed our palates. On the other hand, it’s interesting to see how portions
shrink and prices rise when exposed to the Vegas area code. You might be best off
getting the $39 three-course Creole favorite, featuring Commander’s justly legendary
turtle soup with sherry, Louisiana pecan-crusted fish, and signature bread
pudding soufflé, three things they do very, very well indeed. Shrimp rémoulade,
though, is another fine starter, and the Chocolate Sheba is one of our top desserts.
Overall, this is a really nice restaurant run by people who really care about the
restaurant business.
3663 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (in the Desert Passage in the Aladdin hotel). & 702/892-8272. www.commanders
palace.com. Reservations suggested. Lunch $16–$28, dinner $25–$39. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–
3:30pm and 6–10pm.
Coyote Cafe SOUTHWESTERN Mark Miller was one of the first
celebrity chefs to hit Vegas, way back before the current boom of trendy restaurants.
His robust regional cuisine combines elements of traditional Mexican,
Native American, Creole, and Cajun cookery. The Grill Room menu changes
monthly, but on a recent visit we enjoyed a bibb-lettuce salad with a lovely, light
lemon dressing and some fine, spicy pork chops. Desserts include a chocolatebanana
torte served on banana crème anglaise and topped with a scoop of vanilla
ice cream. The wine list includes many by-the-glass selections, including champagnes
and sparkling wines, which nicely complement spicy Southwestern fare;
Brazilian daiquiris are a house specialty.
The Cafe menu offers similar but somewhat lighter fare. Southwestern breakfasts
($6–$9.50) range from huevos rancheros to blue-corn pancakes with
toasted pine nuts, honey butter, and real maple syrup.
In the MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. S. & 702/891-7349. Reservations recommended for the Grill
Room, not accepted for the Cafe. Grill Room main courses $15–$32. Cafe main courses $7.50–$18 (many
under $10). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Grill Room daily 5:30–10pm; cafe daily 8:30am–11pm.
Emeril’s New Orleans Fish House CONTEMPORARY CREOLE
Chef Emeril Lagasse, a ubiquitous presence on cable’s Food Network, is becoming
nearly as common in Vegas as in his adopted hometown of New Orleans.
Seafood is the specialty here, flown in from Louisiana or from anywhere else that
he finds the quality of the ingredients to be the very finest. Be sure to start off
with one of Lagasse’s savory “cheesecakes”: a lobster cheesecake with tomato-tarragon
sauce, topped with a dollop of succulent Louisiana choupique fish caviar.
It’s a heady, rich appetizer that may be completely unlike anything you’ve ever
had. Oysters on the half shell are also a favorite, served with two tangy dipping
sauces. And try the barbecued shrimp, which come in a garlic-and-herb butter
sauce that will have you mopping your plate with bread. For an entree, try one
of Lagasse’s sauce-enhanced fish dishes. Meat eaters will also be very happy with