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Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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SOUTH STRIP 77<br />

bobbing in the miniwaves is delightful, as is floating happily in the lazy river<br />

(tubes available for rental—we say, save some bucks and share a tube with friends,<br />

taking turns using it). All in all, this area alone makes this resort a top choice for<br />

families. What doesn’t is the new topless swimming area that opened in 2003.<br />

The health club is sufficiently stocked to give you a good workout (it should<br />

be, as they charge guests $22 per day to use it). The spa area proper—featuring<br />

hot and warm pools, plus a cold plunge—is exotically designed, as close to those<br />

found in the Turkish spas in Eastern Europe as we’ve come across, though without<br />

the patina (read: weathered decay) of decades or centuries, which can be a<br />

good thing. Load up on that rich moisturizer when dressing—it costs $17 a bottle<br />

in the store outside the door.<br />

3950 <strong>Las</strong> <strong>Vegas</strong> Blvd. S. (at Hacienda Ave.), <strong>Las</strong> <strong>Vegas</strong>, NV 89119. & 877/632-7000 or 702/632-7000. Fax<br />

702/632-7228. www.mandalaybay.com. 3,309 units. From $99 standard double; from $149 suite; from $149<br />

House of Blues Signature Rooms. Extra person $35, no discount for children. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free self- and<br />

valet parking. Amenities: Casino; 12,000-seat events center; 1,700-seat performing-arts theater; 13 restaurants;<br />

4 outdoor pools; health club and spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; watersports equipment/rental; concierge; tour desk;<br />

business center; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking<br />

rooms; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, hair dryer, iron and board, safe.<br />

MGM Grand Hotel & Casino Kids <strong>Vegas</strong> goes back and forth on its position<br />

on whether size does matter, and the MGM Grand is a perfect example of<br />

that. When it first opened, the massive glaring green behemoth was the largest<br />

hotel in town, with a casino to match—and its owners were mighty proud of it,<br />

boasting still further of their family-appropriateness, as typified by the theme<br />

park that was originally in the back. But times and emphasis change, and with<br />

everyone else in <strong>Vegas</strong> moving away from the pseudo-family-friendly direction<br />

to the whole luxury-resort persona, the MGM Grand had no choice but to follow.<br />

So if you book here thinking your kids are still welcome, you should think<br />

again. The amusement park in the back is gone, and so is the Wizard of Oz<br />

theme that originally gave the hotel its identity. Instead, there are striptease<br />

shows and a lounge called Tabu. That sort of thing certainly sends a message.<br />

Consider also the place’s size. The hotel management now downplays the<br />

once touted hugeness, trying to pretend that the really big casino is actually several<br />

medium-big casinos. Whatever. Despite plenty of signage, it is still a<br />

lengthy, confusing schlep from anywhere to anywhere. The 80 42-inch TV<br />

monitors (apprising registering guests of hotel happenings) in the otherwise<br />

lovely and vast white-marble lobby only add to the chaotic confusion a guest<br />

might feel—all the worse if you are toting kids. (At least the lobby is now immediately<br />

accessible from the outside world.)<br />

On the absolute plus side, we are just knocked out by the Grand Tower<br />

rooms. No cookie-cutter, generic, upscale-but-forgettably-bland furniture<br />

here—instead, it’s a modern-day homage to 1930s moderne, all clean, curvy<br />

lines, good wood, and a fun palette of colors, plus black-and-white movie-star<br />

glamour photos. The results are some of the most distinctive rooms on the<br />

Strip—and even if there are a heck of a lot of them, they are the best choice in<br />

town in their price range. The Emerald Tower rooms (about 700 of the hotel’s<br />

total rooms) are a whole lot less grand. The remnants of the old Marina Hotel,<br />

these rooms are plainer (and smaller by about 100 sq. ft.) and more run of the<br />

mill (though the windows have shutters, which is semi-nifty). The expanded<br />

pool area is another victory, with several choices for dunking including a lazy<br />

river (though we wish portions of it weren’t closed off for nonsummer months).<br />

Overall, report guests, the staff couldn’t be more friendly and helpful.

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