Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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CHAPTER 6 . WHERE TO DINE
poivre, though its side of pancetta-wrapped shrimp dumplings (think fancy
bacon-wrapped shrimp) is not as successful. Also winning raves is the potatocrusted
John Dory. The lobster potpie is cooked in a pot, then brought to the
table and disassembled with great ceremony, as 1 1 ⁄2 pounds of lobster is laid out,
a creamy sauce with veggies is poured over it, and it’s all topped with the crust.
Do try some of their dainty and clever desserts, particularly their signature rootbeer
float—no, really. It’s got root-beer sorbet, sarsaparilla ice cream, a chocolate
straw, and warm cookies right out of the oven.
In Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S. & 702/693-7223. Reservations recommended. Main courses $29–$34
(lobster and whole foie gras higher). AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–10pm.
Buccaneer Bay Club Finds AMERICAN/CONTINENTAL This is a good
middle-of-the-road choice—a little bit of adventure for those who don’t usually
take dining risks, but not so much that the truly timid will find nothing to eat.
As we write this, however, the restaurant, originally built as a place to watch TI’s
Pirate Battle, is getting an overhaul—perhaps to tone down the pirate imagery,
since said Pirate Battle is turning into a showcase for scantily clad dancers. It’s
going to be more fun than ever to watch fellow diners drop their forks and race
to the windows when the cry “Pirates are on!” goes up.
Appetizers come in both hot (jerk-style shrimp Jamaica and escargot brioche)
and cold (shrimp cocktail and Parma prosciutto) varieties. The savory celeryroot
flan and the quail are the true stars of the appetizer menu. (The quail wasn’t
on the menu, so be sure to ask about specials.) Entrees range from poultry to
beef to seafood. Consider the Colorado buffalo prime rib, which is roasted and
grilled over mesquite wood and served with creamy horseradish potatoes. If you
haven’t tried buffalo before, check it out. Desserts include apple beignets, whitechocolate
cheesecake with raspberry sauce, and the house specialty, apricot or
harlequin (Grand Marnier and white and dark chocolate) mini soufflés.
In Treasure Island, 3300 Las Vegas Blvd. S. & 702/894-7223. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$20–$35. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–10:30pm.
Delmonico Steakhouse CONTEMPORARY CREOLE/STEAK
Watching the Food Network, you might well feel that Emeril Lagasse is
omnipresent. Slowly but surely, he’s becoming as ubiquitous here in Vegas
(though he has a long way to go to match Puck) as he is in New Orleans, as he
brings variations on his Big Easy brand-name eateries to town. This latest is a
steakhouse version of his hard-core classic Creole restaurant; this ever-so-slight
twist is just enough to make it a superior choice over the more disappointing
New Orleans locale. It’s set in two dining rooms (the left-hand one is ’70s-den
ugly—choose instead the Neutra/Schindler–influenced right-hand side).
You can try Emeril’s concoctions, plus fabulous cuts of red meat. You can’t go
wrong with most appetizers, especially the superbly rich smoked mushrooms
with homemade tasso ham over pasta—it’s enough for a meal in and of itself.
The same advice holds for any of the specials, or the gumbo, particularly if it’s
the hearty, near-homemade country selection. If you want to experiment, definitely
do it with the appetizers; you’re better off steering clear of complex
entrees, no matter how intriguing they sound (such as a 1-night special of foie
gras–stuffed ahi tuna). We’ve found the entree specials to be generally disappointing,
while the more deceptively simple choices are more successful. The
bone-in rib steak is rightly recommended (skip the gummy béarnaise sauce in
favor of the fabulous homemade Worcester or the A.O.K. sauce). Sides are hit
or miss—the creamed spinach was too salty, but a sweet-potato purée (a special,