Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

288
CHAPTER 11 . SIDE TRIPS FROM LAS VEGAS
red rocks. Farther along, the mountains become solid limestone, with canyons
running between them, which lead to an evergreen forest—a surprising sight in
the desert.
If you’re up to it, however, we can’t stress enough that the way to really see the
canyon is by hiking. Every trail is incredible—glance over your options and
decide what you might be looking for. You can begin from the visitor center or
drive into the loop, park your car, and start from points therein. Hiking trails
range from a 7 ⁄10-mile-loop stroll to a waterfall (its flow varying seasonally) at
Lost Creek to much longer and more strenuous treks. Actually, all the hikes
involve a certain amount of effort, as you have to scramble over rocks on even
the shortest hikes. Unfit or undexterous people should beware. Be sure to wear
good shoes, as the rocks can be slippery. You must have a map; you won’t get lost
forever (there usually are other hikers around to help you out, eventually), but
you can get lost. It is often tough to find a landmark, and once deep into the
rocks, everything looks the same, even with the map. Consequently, give yourself
extra time for each hike (at least an additional hour), regardless of its billed
length, to allow for the lack of paths, getting disoriented, and simply to slow
down and admire the scenery.
A popular 2-mile round-trip hike leads to Pine Creek Canyon and the creekside
ruins of a historic homesite surrounded by ponderosa pine trees. Our hiking
trail of choice is the Calico Basin, which is accessed along the loop. After an
hour walk up the rocks (which is not that well marked), you end up at an oasis
surrounded by sheer walls of limestone (which makes the oasis itself inaccessible,
alas). In the summer, flowers and deciduous trees grow out of the walls.
As you hike, keep your eyes peeled for lizards, the occasional desert tortoise,
herds of bighorn sheep, birds, and other critters. But the rocks themselves are
the most fun, with many minicaves to explore and rock formations to climb on.
(Relive childhood with a politically incorrect game of Cowboys and Indians!)
On trails along Calico Hills and the escarpment, look for “Indian marbles,” a
local name for small, rounded sandstone rocks that have eroded off larger sandstone
formations. Petroglyphs are also tucked away in various locales.
Biking is another option; riding a bicycle would be a tremendous way to
travel the loop. There are also terrific off-road mountain-biking trails, with levels
from amateur to expert.
After you tour the canyon, drive over to Bonnie Springs Ranch (details in the
next section) for lunch or dinner. See chapter 7 for further details on biking and
climbing.
4 Bonnie Springs Ranch/Old Nevada
About 24 miles W of Las Vegas, 5 miles past Red Rock Canyon
Bonnie Springs Ranch/Old Nevada is a kind of Wild West theme park with
accommodations and a restaurant. If you’re traveling with kids, a day or
overnight trip to Bonnie Springs is recommended, but it is surprisingly appealing
for adults too. It could even be a romantic getaway, as it offers horseback riding,
gorgeous mountain vistas, proximity to Red Rock Canyon, and
temperatures 5°F to 10°F (–15°C to–12°C) cooler than on the Strip.
For additional information, you can call Bonnie Springs Ranch/Old Nevada
at & 702/875-4191 or visit them on the Web at www.bonniesprings.com.
If you’re driving, a trip to Bonnie Springs Ranch can be combined easily with
a day trip to Red Rock Canyon; it is about 5 miles farther on. But you can also
stay overnight.