Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

EAST OF THE STRIP 153
MODERATE
Carluccio’s Tivoli Gardens Finds ITALIAN A bit of a drive, but well
worth it for those seeking an authentic (read: dining in a restaurant that’s been
around more than 10 years) Vegas experience. This joint used to be owned by
none other than the Rhinestone King himself, Liberace. See, it’s formerly Liberace’s
Tivoli Gardens, and he designed the interior himself, so you know what
that looks like (it was reopened a few years after his death and they kept the
decor pretty much intact). This kind of history is more and more rare in this
town with no memory, plus it’s right next door to the Liberace Museum, no
coincidence, so go pay your giggling respects in the late afternoon and then stop
here for dinner. Expect traditional Italian food (pasta, pasta, pasta, and scampi).
1775 E.Tropicana Blvd. (at Spencer).& 702/795-3236. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$25.
AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 4:30–10pm.
Gordon-Biersch Brewing Company CALIFORNIA This is a traditional
brewpub (exposed piping and ducts, but still comfortable and casual), but it’s
worth going to for a meal as well. The menu is pub fare meets California cuisine
(kids will probably find the food too complicated), and naturally, there are a lot
of beers (German-style lagers) to choose from. Appetizers include satays (marinated
meat on skewers served with spicy peanut sauce), pot stickers, calamari,
baby back ribs, delicious beer-battered onion rings, and amazing garlicencrusted
fries. A wood-burning pizza oven turns out pies with California-type
toppings: eggplant, shrimp, and so forth. For lunch, there are various pastas, stirfries,
sandwiches, and salads. The dinner menu eliminates the sandwiches and
adds rosemary chicken, steaks, fish items, and, just in case you forgot it was a
brewpub-type joint, beer everything: beer-glazed ham, beer meatloaf, and beerbarbecued
glazed ribs. Doesn’t that make you want to order a glass of milk?
3987 Paradise Rd. (just north of Flamingo Rd.). & 702/312-5247. Main courses $11–$16. AE, DISC, MC, V.
Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm; bar open until 2am daily.
Kabuki JAPANESE Primarily catering to a Japanese clientele, the Kabuki is a
real taste of Japan. Rice paper covers the windows of this tastefully converted
diner, while various paintings of Japanese kabuki actors grace the walls. The
service is excellent, starting your meal off with a warm towel and green tea. Yes,
they do have a small sushi bar, but the locals (who voted this their favorite Japanese
restaurant in a recent Las Vegas Review-Journal poll) come back for the other
Japanese dishes. Negi ma, a teriyaki-marinated beef rolled with onions, and yaki
gyoza (pot stickers) are both amazing starters. For the main course, try zarusoba
(cold Japanese buckwheat noodles), beef and chicken teriyaki, or tatsuta age
(marinated chicken). They have plenty of sushi specials, including yellowtail,
shrimp, and calamari, but there are other sushi places in town that do sushi better
(admittedly in some cases for a higher price).
3949 S. Maryland Pkwy.& 702/733-0066. Reservations required on weekend nights. Main courses $7–$17.
AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5:30–11pm.
Komol THAI This is a hole-in-the-wall dive, like most good ethnic places.
The menu is pretty large, divided into different sections for poultry, beef, and
pork, plus a separate section for vegetarian dishes, plus many rice and noodle
selections. They’ll spice the food to your specifications. Unless you know your
spicy Asian food, it might be best to play it on the safe side. (While we don’t
want things bland, too much heat can overwhelm all other flavors. The mild to
medium packs enough of a kick for most people.)