Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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CHAPTER 6 . WHERE TO DINE
Caesars Forum Shops (which means it’s more convenient for those staying at
accommodations east of the Strip). And in many ways, it’s more authentic, from
its revolving pastry case to the middle-aged waitresses with thick foundation and
thick ankles who shout your order back to the kitchen. The clientele are classic
Vegas characters, of an age to have been fans of the youthful Paul Anka. If you
are lucky, you might sit next to a table full of dealers swapping war stories about
their pit bosses.
As mentioned, these are not the monster portions of modern-day chain delis,
but you won’t go hungry. Don’t look for anything vegetarian here; instead, you
got your pastrami on rye, your matzo-ball soup, your chopped liver, your
tongue, your meatloaf, your lox and bagel, and so on. Desserts are a bit sparse
for a deli, but you can’t go wrong with the black-and-white cookies. Go ahead—
have a nosh.
4055 S. Maryland Pkwy. (at Flamingo Rd.). & 702/733-7827. Reservations not accepted. Main courses
$7–$12. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 9am–8pm; Sun 9am–4pm.
Einstein Bros. Bagels BAGELS You may not like digging into an enormous
buffet first thing in the morning, and the continental breakfast in most
hotels is a rip-off. A welcome alternative is a fresh-baked bagel, of which there
are 15 varieties here—everything from onion to wild blueberry. Cream cheeses
also come in many flavors, anything from sun-dried tomato to vegetable and
jalapeño. Einstein’s is a pleasant place for a morning meal, with both indoor seating
and outdoor tables cooled by misters. Service is friendly, and four specialblend
coffees are available each day.
Note: Bagel buffs might also want to check out the nearby Bagelmania at 855
Twain Ave. (& 702/369-3322). The bagels are sometimes chilled for freshness,
which is heresy. Avoid this problem by catching them early in the morning,
when their extensive selection is hot and fresh.
In the University Gardens Shopping Center, 4626 S. Maryland Pkwy. (between Harmon and Tropicana aves.).
& 702/795-7800. All items under $6. MC, V. Mon–Fri 6am–7pm; Sat 6am–6pm; Sun 6:30am–5pm.
Lotus of Siam Finds THAI So we drag you out to a strip mall in the
east end of nowhere and you wonder why? Because here is what critic Jonathan
Gold of Gourmet magazine called no less than the best Thai restaurant in North
America.
What makes this place so darn special? First of all, in addition to all the usual
beloved Thai favorites, they have a separate menu featuring lesser-known dishes
from northern Thailand—they don’t routinely hand this one out (since most of
the customers are there for the more pedestrian, if still excellent, $5.99 lunch
buffet). Second, the owner drives at least twice a week back to Los Angeles
(where his original venue, Renu Na Korn, is still operating under another family
member) to pick up the freshest herbs and other ingredients needed for his
dishes’ authenticity. That’s dedication that should be rewarded with superlatives.
You might be best off letting them know you are interested in northern food
(with dried chiles and more pork, it’s not un-Cajun-like, says the owner) and letting
them guide you through, though you must assure them that you aren’t of
faint heart or palate (some customers complain the heat isn’t enough, even with
“well spiced” dishes, though others find even medium spice sufficient). Standouts
include the Issan sausage (a grilled sour pork number), the nam kao tod
(that same sausage, ground up with lime, green onion, fresh chile, and ginger,
served with crispy rice), nam sod (ground pork mixed with ginger, green onion,
and lime juice, served with sticky rice), jackfruit larb (spicy ground meat), and