Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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CHAPTER 11 . SIDE TRIPS FROM LAS VEGAS
CANOEING The Alan Bible Visitor Center (see above) can provide a list of
outfitters who rent canoes for trips on the Colorado River. There’s one catch, however:
A canoeing permit ($5 per person) is required in advance for certain areas near
the dam and is available from the Bureau of Reclamation (Attn.: Canoe Launch
Permits), Box 60400, Boulder City, NV 89006-0400 (& 702/293-8204). You can
apply for and receive the permit on the same day that you plan to canoe.
HIKING The best season for hiking is November to March (it’s too hot the
rest of the year). Some ranger-guided hikes are offered via the Alan Bible Visitor
Center (see above), which also stocks detailed trail maps. Three trails, ranging in
length from 3 ⁄4 mile to 6 miles, originate at the visitor center. The 6-mile trail goes
past remains of the railroad built for the dam project. Be sure to take all necessary
desert-hiking precautions (see details in chapter 7).
LAKE CRUISES A delightful way to enjoy Lake Mead is on a cruise aboard
Lake Mead Cruises’ Desert Princess (& 702/293-6180; www.lakemead
cruises.com), a Mississippi-style paddle-wheeler. Cruises depart year-round from
a terminal near Lake Mead Lodge (see below). It’s a relaxing, scenic trip (enjoyed
from an open promenade deck or one of two fully enclosed, climate-controlled
decks) through Black Canyon and past colorful rock formations known as the
“Arizona Paint Pots” en route to Hoover Dam, which is lit at night. Options
include buffet breakfast cruises ($29 adults, $15 children under 12), narrated
midday cruises ($19 adults, $9 children), cocktail/dinner cruises ($40 adults, $21
children), and sunset dinner/dance cruises with live music ($51 adults; children
not permitted). Dinner is served in a pleasant, windowed, air-conditioned dining
room. There’s a full bar onboard. Call for departure times.
SCUBA DIVING October to April, there’s good visibility, lessened in summer
months when algae flourishes. A list of good dive locations, authorized
instructors, and nearby dive shops is available at Alan Bible Visitor Center (see
above). There’s an underwater, designated diving area near Lake Mead Marina.
BOULDER CITY
You might want to consider poking around Boulder City on your way back to
Vegas. Literally the company town for those building Hoover Dam, it was created
by the wives who came with their husbands and turned a temporary site
into a real community, since aided by the recreational attractions and attendant
businesses of Lake Mead. It doesn’t look like much as you first approach it, but
once you are in the heart, you’ll discover that it’s quite charming. There are some
antiques and curio shops, and a number of family-style restaurants and burger
and Mexican joints, including Totos, a reasonably priced Mexican restaurant at
806 Buchanan Blvd. (& 702/293-1744); it’s in the Von’s shopping center. Or
you could try the Happy Days Diner, 512 Nevada Hwy. (& 702/293-4637),
which is right on the road to and from the dam. A ’50s diner in looks and menu,
it has the usual burgers, shakes, and fries, plus complete breakfasts, and is quite
inexpensive ($3 for a turkey burger on a recent visit), friendly, and a good place
to take the kids.
ACCOMMODATIONS
In addition to the hotel below (the only place to stay right on Lake Mead itself,
aside from campsites), there are a number of little hotels in Boulder City.
Lake Mead Lodge Value If camping isn’t your bag, spend your night or
nights at this rustic and comfortable bungalow-style lodge. It’s an easy drive
from Hoover Dam and is right on the lake, but also right on the desert, so don’t