Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

SOUTH STRIP 131
there’s too much of it), but be warned: It’s served inside the actual club,
which is miked very loudly, and it can be unbelievably loud, so bring
earplugs (we left with splitting headaches).
Presumably filling the hole left by the demise of the All Star Café, so
that you sports fans won’t feel left out in the theme restaurant race,
ESPN, in New York–New York, 3790 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (& 702/933-3776;
open Mon–Thurs 11:30am–11pm, Fri 11am–midnight, Sat 9am–midnight,
and Sun 9am–11pm), is a gigantic facility featuring rather wacky
and entertaining sports memorabilia (such as Evel Knievel set up as the
old “Operation” game, displaying his many broken bones), plus additions
such as a rock-climbing wall/machine. It’s pretty fun, actually, and
the food, in a couch-potato-junk-food-junkie way, is not bad either,
especially when you’re sitting in one of the La-Z-Boy recliners, ordering
delights such as three Krispy Kreme donuts topped with ice cream,
whipped cream, and syrup, and watching sports.
There are those who rave about the warm Tollhouse-cookie pie at the
Harley Davidson Cafe
, 3725 Las Vegas Blvd. S. at Harmon Avenue
(& 702/740-4555; open Sun–Thurs 11am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11am–midnight).
The Hard Rock Cafe , 4475 Paradise Rd. at Harmon Avenue (& 702/
733-8400; open Sun–Thurs 11am–11:30pm, Fri–Sat 11am–1am), has
decent burgers. The serious hipster quotient at the adjacent hotel means
that the people-watching opportunities are best here.
Visually, the Rainforest Cafe , in the MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas
Blvd. S. (& 702/891-8580; open Sun–Thurs 8am–midnight, Fri–Sat 8am–
1am), with its jungle interior, complete with sound effects and Animatronic
animals, is the best of the bunch.
EXPENSIVE
Border Grill MEXICAN For our money, here’s the best Mexican food
in town. This big, cheerful space (like a Romper Room for adults) houses a branch
of the much-lauded L.A. restaurant, conceived and run by the Food Network’s
“Two Hot Tamales,” Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. This is truly authentic
Mexican home cooking—the Tamales learned their craft from the real McCoy
south of the border—but with a nuevo twist. So don’t expect precisely the same
dishes you’d encounter in your favorite corner joint, but do expect fresh and fabulous
food, sitting as brightly on the plates as the decor on the walls. Stay away
from the occasionally bland fish and head right toward rich and cheesy dishes like
chiles rellenos (with perfect black beans) and chicken chilaquiles (a sister to the
taco), or try nuevo items such as mushroom empanadas. Don’t miss the dense but
fluffy Mexican chocolate-cream pie (with a meringue crust).
In Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S. & 702/632-7403. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$15–$20. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm.
Mizuno’s JAPANESE Mizuno’s has long had a strong reputation in town
for terrific Japanese food, and while it seems like a gimmicky place, there is a good
reason for those perpetually good reviews. Anyone who has eaten at a Benihana
isn’t going to find the concept here novel—you are seated at a grill and your own