Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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CHAPTER 6 . WHERE TO DINE
here because, improbably, Austins Steakhouse has gained a reputation for the
best steak in town. Really. Even the snooty critics at the Las Vegas Review-Journal
agree with the hubbub about this place. And here’s what has everyone, including
us, raving: a 24-ounce rib-eye—yes, we know, just split it—aged and marinated,
cooked over mesquite applewood, then rubbed with peppercorns and
pan-seared in garlic, butter, and cilantro. A massive chunk of meat with a smoky,
garlicky flavor like no other steak we can think of. Most of the dishes have a
Southern twist, like the fried green tomatoes with a rémoulade dipping sauce,
and for those not watching their cholesterol, or at least only watching it go up,
the shrimp sautéed in garlic butter sauce, dipped in cheese and wrapped in
bacon. The Maui onion soup is also a standout, as is, over in the desserts, the
chocolate decadence cake, which actually has a molten center, sort of a semisoufflé.
Note that a comparable meal on the Strip would cost $10 to $20 more
per person—yet another reason to head out to the hinterlands.
In Texas Station, 2101 Texas Star Lane. & 702/631-1000. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$15–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm.
Cafe Nicolle CONTINENTAL Cafe Nicolle is a local favorite, a place to
go for either a special occasion (we noted at least one pre-prom couple) or just
to hang out on the lovely patio, which features a cooling mist on hot summer
nights. (Patio dining is a rarity in Vegas, and the space is just charming.) Even
the waitstaff eats here on their off nights, which is a mighty fine recommendation.
Inside, it’s airy, though unimaginatively decorated (’80s black lacquer),
with tables set far enough apart for a pleasant buzz but not enough for your
neighbor to eavesdrop.
There are no surprises on the menu—pastas, crepes, chicken, and veal—but
everything is beautifully prepared and served attractively with generous portions.
They have extremely good, fresh fish, presented very simply, so the fish’s
own flavor is able to shine, as opposed to being overwhelmed by sauces. The Florentine
crepe is made with lots of fresh spinach and not too much cheese in the
sauce. Be sure to dip your fresh bread in the excellent garlic-and-rosemary olive
oil found on the table.
Cafe Nicolle is not all that different from restaurants found on the Strip, but
if you need a break from the hubbub and the sometimes suffocating crush of
people there, or just want a chance to dine in a restaurant with windows and
breathe some fresh air, this is worth the short drive.
In the Sahara Pavilion, 4760 W. Sahara Blvd. (at Decatur Blvd.). & 702/870-7675. Reservations recommended
for large parties. Main courses $7–$15 at lunch, $16–$25 at dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat
11am–10pm.
Rosemary’s Restaurant Finds NOUVELLE AMERICAN No visitor
would be blamed for never leaving the Vegas Strip—it’s the raison d’être of any
Vegas tourist—but a true foodie should make a point of finding the nearest
moving vehicle that can get them to Rosemary’s Restaurant. A 15-minute (or so)
drive down Sahara (hardly anything) is all it takes to eat what may well be the
best food in Las Vegas (certainly, it is consistently voted the best food in the Las
Vegas Review-Journal’s annual poll, by food critics and readers alike).
The brainchild of Michael and Wendy Jordan, both veterans of the New
Orleans food scene (Michael actually opened Emeril’s Seafood here in Vegas),
Rosemary’s Restaurant (named for Michael’s mother) shows more than a
few NOLA touches, from the food to the service, in a room that’s warmer and