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Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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70<br />

CHAPTER 5 . WHERE TO STAY<br />

Frankly, for first-timers, there probably isn’t any point to staying anywhere<br />

but the Strip—you’re going to spend most (if not all) of your time there anyway.<br />

For future visits, however, we’d strongly advise you to consider Downtown.<br />

But the Strip vs. Downtown location isn’t the end of the debate; there is also<br />

the issue of where to stay on the Strip. Staying on the South Strip end means<br />

an easy trip (sometimes in the air-conditioned comfort of covered walkways or<br />

monorail) to Mandalay Bay, MGM Grand, New York–New York, Tropicana,<br />

Luxor, and Excalibur—all virtually on one corner. Mid-Strip has Caesars, The<br />

Mirage, Bellagio, Treasure Island, Paris, The Venetian, Bally’s, The Flamingo,<br />

Harrah’s, and so forth. The North Strip gets you The Riviera, Sahara, Stardust,<br />

and Circus Circus, though with a bit more of a walk between them. For this reason,<br />

if mobility is a problem and you want to see more than just your own hotel<br />

casino, the South and Mid-Strip locations are probably the best bets.<br />

WHAT AM I LOOKING FOR IN A HOTEL?<br />

If gambling is not your priority, what are you doing in <strong>Vegas</strong>? Just kidding. But<br />

not 100% kidding. <strong>Vegas</strong>’s new identity as a luxury resort destination means<br />

there are several brand-spanking-new hotels that promise to offer you all sorts of<br />

alternatives to gambling—lush pool areas, fabulous spas, incredible restaurants,<br />

lavish shopping. But if you look closely, much of this is <strong>Vegas</strong> bait and switch;<br />

the pools are often chilly (and often partially closed during nonsummer<br />

months), and it will be years before there is more foliage than concrete in these<br />

newly landscaped environments. The spas cost extra (sometimes a whole lot<br />

extra); the best restaurants are rarely cheap; and the stores are often the kinds of<br />

places where average mortals can’t even afford the oxygen. So what does that<br />

leave you with? Why, that’s right—gambling.<br />

The other problem with these self-proclaimed luxury hotels is their size. True<br />

luxury hotels do not have 3,000 rooms—they have a couple of hundred at best,<br />

because you simply can’t provide first-class service and Egyptian-cotton sheets in<br />

mass quantity. But while Bellagio, The Venetian, and, to a lesser extent, Mandalay<br />

Bay have done their best to offer sterling service and to make their rooms<br />

more attractive and luxurious than those at other <strong>Vegas</strong> hotels, there’s only so<br />

much that any place that big can do. Don’t get us wrong—these places are<br />

absolutely several steps up in quality from other large hotels, and compared to<br />

them, even the better older hotels really look shabby. But they are still sprawling,<br />

frequently noisy complexes.<br />

Sadly, it’s relatively easy for both you and us to make a mistake about a hotel;<br />

either of us may experience a particular room or two in a 1,000-plus-room hotel,<br />

and from there conclude that a place is nicer than it is or more of a dump than<br />

it is. Maintenance, even in the best of hotels, can sometimes be running a bit<br />

behind, so if there is something wrong with your room, don’t hesitate to ask for<br />

another. Of course, if it’s one of those busy weekends, there may not be another<br />

room to be had, but at least this way you’ve registered a complaint, perhaps letting<br />

a busy hotel know that a certain room needs attention. And who knows? If<br />

you are gracious and persistent enough, you may be rewarded with a deal for<br />

some future stay.<br />

If you want a true luxury-resort hotel, there are only two options: On the<br />

Strip it’s the Four Seasons, and off, way off, in nearby Henderson, it’s the Ritz-<br />

Carlton. Both offer, in addition to that same service and level of comfort only<br />

found at a smaller hotel, those extra goodies that pile on the hidden charges at<br />

other hotels—health club, poolside cabanas, and so on—as part of the total

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