Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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CHAPTER 6 . WHERE TO DINE
Unfortunately, despite the high regard, the main courses are not all that novel
(various cuts of meat, seafood, and chicken prepared different ways) and can be
disappointing. Promising choices include the chicken “Hugo” (with basil and
pine nuts prepared in a cream sauce), and the rack of lamb with Indonesian spices.
Vegetables are included, as is a finish of chocolate-dipped fruits with cream.
The service is impeccable (you have little-to-no wait between courses), and it
really makes you feel pampered. The fact that salad, the small dessert, and so
forth are included makes an initially hefty-seeming price tag appear a bit more
reasonable, especially when compared to Strip establishments that aren’t much
better and can cost nearly twice as much. While the main courses aren’t spectacular,
the salads and desserts are fine. It’s not worth going out of your way for
the food, but perhaps it is for the whole package.
In the Four Queens hotel, 202 Fremont St. (at Casino Center Blvd.).& 702/385-4011. Reservations required.
Main courses $26–$42. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–11pm.
EXPENSIVE
Limericks STEAK/SEAFOOD Decorated in the classic Olde English gentlemen’s
club style, Limericks is meant to be an oasis of gracious dining away
from hectic casino life, and the overall effect is comforting and moderately
womblike, particularly in the cozy booths at the back. Unfortunately, casino “cachings”
still creep in, but it’s not overly bothersome. The menu is classic, upscale
steakhouse: beef, chops, some lobster, and chicken. The portions are Vegas-size
(the small prime rib was 14 oz.), so bring an appetite (and a love of red meat),
or take your leftovers back to the room to feed the kids for a couple days. The
filet mignon was tender enough to cut with a fork, and the lamb chops came
with a pecan-mustard glaze. Patrons who don’t eat red meat might want to try
the apricot chicken. Appetizers are mostly seafood, though there is a fine-sounding
baked brie with strawberry preserves. “Chef’s choice” desserts change
nightly, and the wine list is both good and extensive.
In Fitzgeralds Casino Holiday Inn, 301 Fremont St. (at 3rd St.). & 702/388-2400. Reservations recommended.
Main courses $18–$40. AE, DISC, MC, V. Thurs–Mon 5pm–1am.
Second Street Grill Finds INTERNATIONAL/PACIFIC RIM One of
the better-kept secrets of Las Vegas, this is a Downtown jewel, a lovely bit of
romantic, cozy class tucked away inside the Fremont Hotel, with excellent food
to boot. There is hardly a misstep on the menu, from taste to beautiful presentation.
To call this food Hawaiian-influenced would be accurate, but don’t think
of the “Polynesian” craze of the ’60s and ’70s (in other words, forget flaming
whatevers and sickly sweet-and-sour sauce). This is more like what you would
find in a top-flight restaurant on the Big Island. You begin with warm sourdough
bread accompanied by garlic-eggplant-and-olive-oil dipping sauce. For
starters, try the unusual lemon-chicken pot stickers and the duck confit. Entrees
include lobster, ahi tuna, and filet mignon, but the whole fish (opaka paka on a
recent visit), served in a bowl with a giant tealeaf lid, is the best bet. It comes
with sautéed mushrooms that will melt in your mouth. Other notable side
dishes include some fabulous pesto mashed potatoes. Tiramisu fans should be
pleased with the Grill’s version of that ubiquitous dessert; it’s light on the alcohol
and more like an airy tiramisu cheesecake. But don’t skip the Chocolate
Explosion: a piece of chocolate cake topped with chocolate mousse and covered
with a rich chocolate shell.
In the Fremont Hotel & Casino, 200 E. Fremont St. & 702/385-3232. Reservations recommended. Main
courses $17–$23. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Mon and Thurs 6–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm.