Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

Area 51
0
10 mi
0 10 km
Rachel
375
Coyote Summit
318
Hiko
Extraterrestrial Highway
93
Hancock
Summit
Bald Mtn.
Groom
Lake
“Black” Mailbox
Mailbox
Road
Ranch
A R E A 5 1
Groom Lake Road
RESTRICTED ZONE BOUNDARY
375
Area
shown
Ash Springs
93
Alamo
Badger Mtn.
Tikaboo
Peak
Ash
Springs
93
93
Elgin
To
Las Vegas
Papoose
Lake
95
Las Vegas
Henderson
93
15
All we know for sure is that you turn down one of the most well-maintained
dirt roads you will ever encounter, drive a few miles, and come upon a fence with
a sign that warns you against going any farther in the utmost of strict terms
(though the language has been toned down from “use of deadly force authorized”
to threats of fines and jail time). Along the way down that road, notice how there
is absolutely no wildlife other than grasshoppers, that the Joshua trees suddenly
turn to an enormous size and monstrous shape, and that the few cattle grazing
around don’t seem like any cattle you’ve seen before. Then notice those blasted-out
craters in the earth, with the core sample holes in the center. When you realize you
are looking at nuclear test sites, the desolation and mutations suddenly make
sense. Wave hi at the guys in the military vehicles who are making damn sure you
don’t go through that gate, and hightail it out of there.
The other hot spot is the “town” of Rachel (www.rachel.dreamlandresort.
com), really just a collection of trailer homes. Here’s where you’ll find the Little
A’Le’Inn diner and gift shop (“Earthlings Welcome”)—where a very funny X-Files
episode was filmed—and in theory, chat with fellow E.T.-spotters, who often
gather at night to search the skies. The owners don’t play along as much as one
would like, though they do feel they were “called there for a special purpose,” but
their gift shop makes up for it with fine humorous souvenirs (we liked the alienhead-shaped
guitar pick). Plus, they serve up satisfying diner food. You can also
drop in at the Area 51 Research Center (just look for the big yellow trailer),