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Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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86<br />

CHAPTER 5 . WHERE TO STAY<br />

as is a review of the buffet. And the man who brought us a free pirate show and<br />

a volcano explosion now brings us a water ballet , courtesy of a dancing<br />

fountain with jets timed to a rotating list of nine songs (everything from pop to<br />

Sinatra to Broadway to opera). This sounds cheesy, but it absolutely is not. It’s<br />

really quite delightful and even witty (no, really), and is the best free show in<br />

<strong>Vegas</strong>. Hotel guests should try to stay on the Strip side so that they can watch<br />

from their windows (although there are some booms as the fountains explode,<br />

we didn’t find it annoying). Note that a channel on the TV will play the songs<br />

as the fountains dance because you can’t quite hear the music from your room.<br />

Bellagio also features an upscale casino, and O (p. 249), perhaps the most<br />

incredible show from Cirque du Soleil.<br />

The hotel’s pool area has skidded to the top of our favorites list; it boasts six<br />

swimming pools (two heated year-round and two with fountains) geometrically<br />

set in a neoclassical Roman garden, with flowered, trellised archways and Italian<br />

opera piped in over the sound system. The Grand Patio could have come right<br />

off a movie set (pillars, domes, you get the idea). Arguably a more sophisticated<br />

environment than the tropical party over at The Mirage (our other favorite), it<br />

is sure to be the place where thonged model types hang out with moneyed Eurotrash—it<br />

comes off as that chic.<br />

The spa and health club are marvelous, but at $25 a pop, it’s pretty pricey if<br />

all you want is a simple session on a treadmill (though with your fee, you are<br />

allowed to return throughout the day for additional soakings/steamings/workouts).<br />

The gym has the latest in cardio and weight machines, but can get very<br />

crowded. Attendants ply you with iced towels and drinks. The spa offers a full<br />

range of pricey treatments and has a serene soaking area, with sumptuous plunge<br />

pools ranging in temperature from icy to boiling. In addition to drinks and<br />

snacks, smoothies are often offered—take one.<br />

The shopping area, called Via Bellagio, features all the stores that advertise<br />

in color in glossy magazines: Tiffany, Armani, Gucci, Prada, Hermès, and the<br />

like. And there’s also an art gallery (p. 176) that boasts enough highly regarded<br />

works to draw some million visitors a year.<br />

What does all this add up to? The ultimate in the new <strong>Vegas</strong> luxury resort<br />

experience, certainly. If it doesn’t quite work, that’s probably more the fault of<br />

the initial concept than the hotel itself. And in <strong>2004</strong>, look for a new tower with<br />

900 additional rooms, a second spa, and more shopping and restaurants.<br />

3600 <strong>Las</strong> <strong>Vegas</strong> Blvd. S. (at the corner of Flamingo Rd.), <strong>Las</strong> <strong>Vegas</strong>, NV 89109.& 888/987-6667 or 702/693-<br />

7111. Fax 702/693-8546. www.bellagio.com. 3,005 units. $139–$499 double. Extra person $35, no discount<br />

for children. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free self- and valet parking. Amenities: Casino; showrooms; wedding<br />

chapel; 16 restaurants; 6 outdoor pools; health club and spa; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; business<br />

center; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executivelevel<br />

rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, high-speed Internet access for a fee, hair dryer, iron and<br />

board, safe.<br />

Caesars Palace Since 1966, Caesars has stood simultaneously as the ultimate<br />

in <strong>Vegas</strong> luxury and the nadir (or pinnacle, depending on your values) of<br />

<strong>Las</strong> <strong>Vegas</strong> cheese. It’s the most <strong>Vegas</strong>-style hotel you’ll find, covering all the bases<br />

from the tacky fabulous cheese of the recent past to the current trend in high-end<br />

luxury. And it’s moving ever on, with the most over-the-top showroom in town,<br />

specially built for Miss Thang herself, Celine Dion, and yet another expansion to<br />

the Forum Shops, the first themed shopping experience on the Strip.<br />

When Caesars was originally built to reflect Roman decadence, its designers<br />

probably had no idea how guffaw-inducing this would be some years later. It’s

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