Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

DOWNTOWN 163
goulash (remember, real goulash is a soup, not a stew; you want a porkolt for that)
exactly the same in Budapest and smaller towns. Which is to say the portions
aren’t huge (unless you get the sample platter of various meats and sausages), but
they are hearty, complete with the traditional tiny dumplings and good-quality
bread. Try the sweet-vinegar cucumber salad or the Hungarian crepes for dessert.
On a recent visit, the place was full of homesick expats (who knew?), including
one woman on the phone with her ailing Hungarian mother, whom she was just
about to visit in Colorado. Mom was placing an order. It’s comfort food for her,
for us, and maybe for you. And when you are done, drop by the next-door
Crown International Market, run by the same folks, for all your deli and other
import-grocery wants, or get a fabulous Hungarian salami sandwich to go.
6135 W. Sahara. & 702/253-7378. Everything under $12. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.
7 Downtown
VERY EXPENSIVE
Andre’s FRENCH Andre’s has long been the bastion of gourmet dining
in Vegas, but with all the new big boys crowding the Strip, it runs the risk of getting
overlooked. It shouldn’t—Andre may not have a show on the Food Network,
but he ought to be a household name. Besides, his first restaurant still
dominates Downtown. (This is also a celebrity haunt where you’re likely to see
Strip headliners. One night, Tom Hanks, Steven Spielberg, and James Spader
were all spotted joining some pals for a bachelor party. The staff played it cool,
though.) In a small, converted 1930s house, you’ll find an elegant French
provincial atmosphere, overseen by owner-chef Andre, who brings over 40 years
of experience to the table. Much of the waitstaff is also French, and they will
happily lavish attention on you and guide you through the menu.
The food presentation is exquisite, and choices change seasonally. On a recent
visit, an appetizer of Northwest smoked salmon mille feuille with cucumber
salad and sevruga caviar was especially enjoyed, as was a main course of grilled
veal tournedos with chive sauce accompanied by a mushroom and foie gras
crepe. You get the idea. Desserts are similarly lovely, an exotic array of rich
delights. An extensive wine list (more than 900 labels) is international in scope
and includes many rare vintages; consult the sommelier.
Note: An additional branch of Andre’s is in the Monte Carlo Hotel &
Casino, 3775 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (& 702/798-7151), and is also highly recommended,
as is their slightly different take, Alizé (p. 135), in the new Palms hotel.
401 S. 6th St. (at Lewis St., 3 blocks south of Fremont St.). & 702/385-5016. Reservations required. Main
courses $25–$38. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm.
Hugo’s Cellar INTERNATIONAL Hugo’s Cellar is indeed in a cellar, or
at least below street level in the Four Queens hotel. No, they aren’t ashamed
of it—quite the opposite. This is a gourmet restaurant, and it is highly regarded
by the locals. Each female guest is given a red rose when she enters the restaurant—the
first of a series of nice touches. The restaurant proper is dimly lit,
lined with dark wood and brick. It’s fairly intimate, but if you really want to be
cozy, ask for one of the curtained booths against the wall.
The meal is full of ceremony, perfectly delivered by a well-trained and cordial
waitstaff. Salads, included in the price, are prepared at your table, from a cart
full of choices. (In Vegas style, though, most choices are on the calorie-intensive
side.) A tiny cup with a palate-cleansing sorbet prepares you for the main course.