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Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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82<br />

CHAPTER 5 . WHERE TO STAY<br />

touch), but it all appears less shabby and more fresh. Bathrooms are also bigger<br />

here, but dull, except for the ones with Jacuzzi tubs. Even without the wildlife, the<br />

pool area is among the best around and is the place’s biggest draw. Note, however,<br />

that their touted swim-up blackjack is seasonal (read: summer only).<br />

Calypsos (p. 134), the 24-hour coffee shop, is a good value, as are the Trop’s<br />

buffet (p. 166) offerings. There’s a good-looking casino, and the Casino Legends<br />

Hall of Fame (p. 178) has the largest collection of gaming chips in the<br />

world, along with other gambling doodads and ephemera. The showroom currently<br />

hosts the Folies Bergère revue (p. 251).<br />

3801 <strong>Las</strong> <strong>Vegas</strong> Blvd. S. (at Tropicana Ave.), <strong>Las</strong> <strong>Vegas</strong>, NV 89109. & 888/826-8767 or 702/739-2222. Fax<br />

702/739-2469. www.tropicanalv.com. 1,878 units. $79–$229 double. Extra person $20. Children under 18<br />

stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free self- and valet parking. Amenities: Casino; showrooms;<br />

wedding chapel; 8 restaurants; 3 outdoor pools; small health club and spa; video arcade; concierge; tour desk;<br />

car-rental desk; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; executive-level rooms.<br />

In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport; minifridge in some rooms, hair dryer, iron and board, safes.<br />

MODERATE<br />

Boardwalk Hotel & Casino This is just like a Holiday Inn—in fact, up until<br />

recently, it was a Holiday Inn, but in <strong>Vegas</strong> you gotta have a theme, and the hotel<br />

underwent an extensive renovation to give it a more attractive Coney Island and<br />

Boardwalk flavor, inside and especially out. The facade is kind of fun, with<br />

clowns and games and mannequins dressed in turn-of-the-last-century clothes.<br />

Of course, all this is completely eclipsed by New York–New York, which is just a<br />

few doors (in Strip terms) down. After all, the roller coaster on the outside of this<br />

hotel is just a facade, while New York–New York’s coaster is real. The whole property<br />

is now owned by the MGM MIRAGE Corp, which hasn’t done anything<br />

special to the place, but does mean a certain amount of quality control.<br />

You don’t have to walk through the casino to get to the lobby, which is a plus,<br />

as is the hotel’s coveted Strip location. On the other hand, it’s a bit pricey for<br />

what you get—standard Holiday Inn hotel rooms.<br />

3750 <strong>Las</strong> <strong>Vegas</strong> Blvd. S. (between Harmon and Tropicana aves.), <strong>Las</strong> <strong>Vegas</strong>, NV 89109. & 800/635-4581 or<br />

702/735-2400. Fax 702/730-3166. www.hiboardwalk.com. 653 units. $39–$139 double; $295–$495 1-bedroom<br />

suite; $495–$895 2-bedroom suite. Extra person $15. Children under 13 stay free in parent’s room.AE, DC, DISC,<br />

MC, V. Free self- and valet parking. Amenities: Casino; showroom; 4 restaurants; outdoor pool; small exercise<br />

room; tour desk; car-rental desk; 24-hr. room service; coin-op washers and laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking<br />

rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron and board.<br />

Excalibur Kids Now this is kitsch. One of the largest resort hotels in the<br />

world, Excalibur (aka “the Realm”) is a gleaming white, turreted castle complete<br />

with moat, drawbridge, battlements, and lofty towers. And it’s huger than huge.<br />

You know, as much as we might publicly stand in favor of quiet good taste,<br />

there is a part of our soul that is secretly thrilled by overblown fantasy locations—<br />

it’s so authentically <strong>Vegas</strong>. And so we just pray that the Lords of Taste never touch<br />

Excalibur, and it is allowed to forever run amok with sword and sorcery imagery.<br />

Actually, the decorating fairies have already made some quiet changes (the deep<br />

reds in the public areas have been switched to creams), but nothing that really sullies<br />

the silliness. (Have fun by having the hotel page you and your friends: “Lady<br />

Doe to the white courtesy phone” or “Sir Jones to the house phone.” Really, they<br />

do this.) There are some ominous rumblings in keeping with the rest of <strong>Vegas</strong>’s<br />

careening away from the “family-friendly” image—gone is the Animatronic<br />

dragon and wizard show out front, and inside, where a nice horse show used to<br />

be, there is a male stripper act, Thunder from Down Under. The hotel remains big<br />

and chaotic, thanks to a sprawling casino full of families and small-time gamblers,

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