Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

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CHAPTER 6 . WHERE TO DINE
hangout (because most actual old-time Vegas hangouts have closed), even in its
relatively new off-Strip location. In addition to your cut of beef, suggested sides
include flavorfully fresh al dente asparagus served with hollandaise or hash browns.
And it’s a good place to hang around, post-dinner, drink Scotch, and smoke.
400 E. Flamingo Rd. (at Paradise Rd.). & 702/893-0703. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$18–$30. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–11pm; Fri–Sat 5–11:30pm.
Pamplemousse FRENCH A little bit off the beaten path, Pamplemousse
is a long-established Vegas restaurant that shouldn’t be overlooked in the crush
of new high-profile eateries. Evoking a cozy French-countryside inn (at least, on
the interior), it’s a catacomb of low-ceilinged rooms and intimate dining nooks
with rough-hewn beams. It’s all very charming and un-Vegasy. There’s additional
seating in a small garden sheltered by a striped tent. The restaurant’s name,
which means grapefruit in French, was suggested by the late singer Bobby
Darin, one of the many celebrity pals of owner Georges La Forge.
The menu, which changes nightly, is recited by your waiter. The meal always
begins with a large, complimentary basket of crudités (about 10 different crisp,
fresh vegetables), a big bowl of olives, and, in a nice country touch, a basket of
hard-boiled eggs. Recent menu offerings have included out-of-this-world soups
(such as French onion and cream of asparagus), and such appetizers as shrimp
in cognac-cream sauce or Maryland crab cakes with a macadamia-nut crust.
Recommended entrees include a sterling veal with mushrooms and a Dijon
sauce, and an even-better rack of lamb with a pistachio-nut crust and a rosemary-cream
sauce (all sauces, by the way, are made with whatever the chef has
on hand that evening in the kitchen). That’s not to mention fabulous desserts
such as homemade ice cream in a hard chocolate shell.
400 E. Sahara Ave. (between Santa Paula and Santa Rita drives, just east of Paradise Rd.).& 702/733-2066.
Reservations required. Main courses $18–$26. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6–10:30pm; closed Mon except
during major conventions and holidays.
The Tillerman STEAK/SEAFOOD The Tillerman is on any number
of locals’ “best of Vegas” lists, and while we agree the food is terrific, the high
prices and somewhat snooty attitude make us feel we can spend our money better
elsewhere.
Of the four main dining rooms, the center one is the best; it’s filled with
plants and trees, and has high ceilings and a huge circular stained-glass window.
There’s additional seating on the mezzanine level, where diners enjoy treetop
views. The meal begins with a relish tray and a basket of delicious oven-fresh
breads. Also complimentary is a Lazy Susan salad bar served at your table with
a choice of homemade dressings, including a memorable chunky blue cheese.
Portions are immense, so appetizers are really not necessary, but then again,
they’re too good to pass up. Especially notable: crab cake garnished with carrot
chips, superb filet medallions in a spicy red sauce, and yellowfin tuna blackened
on the outside and almost rare on the inside, served in a spicy mustard sauce.
For entrees, regulars often order the crab legs, which are excellent. The swordfish
and halibut are wonderful too, as is the shrimp in garlic-cream sauce. The
wine list is huge but expensive; the cheapest glass is $8. After such a large meal,
a lighter dessert such as the Bavarian crème with strawberries might be in order.
Skip the carrot cake in favor of the divine chocolate éclair.
2245 E. Flamingo Rd. (at Channel 10 Dr., just west of Eastern Ave.). & 702/731-4036. Reservations recommended.
Main courses $20–$39. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 5–10pm; Sat–Sun 5–10:30pm; bar/lounge
until midnight daily.