Frommer's Las Vegas 2004

MID-STRIP 143
prices for entrees other than pasta and pizza fall into our “very expensive” category,
lunch prices are less high, and there are, as you will see, ways to make this
fall into the “moderate” category. So we decided to split the difference and list
this as “expensive.” Just thought you’d like to know.)
Le Cirque’s gourmet French haute cuisine does not prepare you for what to
expect from Circo, or for that matter, vice versa. Ignore the bright primary-color
scheme, meant to evoke the circus but instead sadly recalling outdated hotel buffets
(albeit with expensive wood grain), in favor of watching the dancing fountains
outside. And then order the mista di Campo, a lovely little salad, both
visually and in terms of taste; it’s a creative construction of vegetables bound
with cucumber and topped with a fab balsamic vinaigrette. Or you could start
with the antipasto appetizer sampler of Tuscan sheep’s-milk cheese, marinated
veggies, prosciutto, and Italian pastrami. Follow that with a perfect tagliatelle
with rock shrimp—it comes loaded with various crustacean bits in a light sauce.
Note that appetizer portions of pastas are plenty filling and cheaper than fullsize
servings. Nighttime brings more elaborate dishes, such as breast of Muscovy
duck with dried organic fruit in port-wine sauce. Save room for desserts such as
panna cotta (Italian cream-filled donuts), or tutto cioccolato, consisting of chocolate
mousse, ice cream, and crumb cake.
In Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S. & 702/693-8150. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses
$17–$24 at lunch (pizza $12–$19), $20–$32 at dinner (pizza and pasta $12–$22). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.
Wed–Sun 11:30am–2:30pm and 5:30–10:30pm.
Hyakumi SUSHI Hyakumi (say “Yah-koo-me”) is a quaint little oasis in
the midst of a bustling casino. Tastefully decorated with hardwood floors in a
tea-garden atmosphere, it is a relaxing respite from the madness of Vegas, as
kimono-clad waitresses cater to your every need with a never-ending cup of particularly
good green tea, plus hot towels, to put you in a Zen-like state.
But the setting, as serene and beautiful as it is, is not the reason for a visit to
Hyakumi; it’s the sushi. Supervised by executive chef Hiroji Obayashi, famed for
his award-winning Hirozen Gourmet Restaurant in Los Angeles, Hyakumi
offers some of the best sushi in town. It’s not the cheapest, but it is well worth
the extra cost. From the toro to the salmon roll, every bite melts in your mouth.
The fish is shipped in daily and is prepared by friendly sushi chefs who obviously
love what they do. If sushi isn’t your thing, there is also a restaurant serving up
traditional (but very expensive) Japanese fare in a lovely garden setting.
In Caesars Palace, 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S. & 702/731-7731. Reservations recommended. Sushi $6–$7 per
roll or piece, main courses $25–$60. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Restaurant and sushi bar daily 11am–4pm for lunch
and 6pm–11pm for dinner.
Pinot Brasserie BISTRO This is the latest incarnation of a series of wellregarded
Los Angeles restaurants whose mother ship, Patina, regularly tops “Best
of” lists among City of Angels foodies. While the more innovative cooking is
going on back in L.A., Pinot reliably delivers French and American favorites that
are thoughtfully conceived and generally delicious. It’s an excellent choice if you
want a special meal that is neither stratospherically expensive nor too complex.
And the space is highly attractive, with various props culled from French auctions
and flea markets forming the archetypal, clubby bistro feel. (We particularly
like the small room off the bar to the right, just perfect for a tête-à-tête.)
Salads are possibly fresher and more generous than other similar starters in
town (thank that California influence), and they can come paired with various
toppings for crostini (toasted slices of French bread) such as herbed goat cheese.