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Sex, Gender, Becoming - PULP

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Three / The aspirational aesthetics<br />

of ‘Gentlemen’s<br />

1<br />

pornography’ Stella Viljoen<br />

1. Introduction<br />

The rising popularity of ‘glossy men's magazines’ in South Africa is all<br />

too clear with the emergence of the South African issues of<br />

Gentlemen's Quarterly (GQ), For Him Magazine (FHM) and Maxim in<br />

the past decade. This chapter examines the visual and social<br />

mythology that gave rise to this new brand of objectifying imagery,<br />

and proposes a new term for this more elusive pornographic genre.<br />

In 1953, Hugh Hefner launched the first so-called soft-porn magazine<br />

targeted at upwardly mobile men. Playboy (it was originally going to<br />

be called Stag Night), was similar to other pornography in that it<br />

objectified women for the purposes of male pleasure, but unlike its<br />

various predecessors it also included what Gail Dines 2 terms ‘service<br />

features’ on sexy consumables, current events, advice columns,<br />

reviews, interviews and short stories. The much-imitated genre of<br />

soft (softer and softest) pornography is no longer the novelty it was in<br />

the 1950s, but has grown to a billion dollar industry with manifold<br />

faces. The political and economic valorisations that have fed and<br />

milked this cash cow are in part also responsible for the continued<br />

ennobling of female objectification that forms a kind of Ariadnian<br />

thread throughout the history of western visual representation.<br />

Pornography, whether subtle or explicit, is not a contemporary<br />

phenomenon; it has a long and politically diverse history. 3 Since the<br />

‘erotic’, similarly, seems to have existed throughout western<br />

history, it too may seem to be a transhistorical concept. However, it<br />

was specifically in the nineteenth century that the pornographic was<br />

categorised as separate and distinct from the erotic, and it is in this<br />

1 This chapter is based on a conference paper delivered at the annual Design<br />

History Society Conference (Norwich, UK) in September 2003 and was posted on<br />

the African <strong>Gender</strong> Institute’s <strong>Gender</strong> and Women’s Studies website (http://<br />

www.gwsafrica.org/knowledge/manet.html) in 2004.<br />

2<br />

G Dines ‘I buy it for the articles: Playboy Magazine and the sexualisation of<br />

consumerism’ in G Dines & JM Humez (eds) <strong>Gender</strong>, race and class in media, a<br />

text reader (1995) 254 255.<br />

3<br />

See W Kendrick The secret museum: Pornography in modern culture (1987); L<br />

Hunt (ed) Eroticism and the body politic (1991).<br />

41

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