Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues, Second edition - Pr School

Segmenting fashion consumers 77
segmentation concept. The identification of homogeneous consumer groups
by means of an approximation of reality suggests the belief in an objective
social reality where consumer understandings, preferences and behaviours
may be objectively aggregated. This view of being in the world represents an
understanding that determines a segmentation process by which attempts are
made to reflect ontology upon method. Measurement of some objective reality
that exists independently of social market interactions is the dominant view of
reality adopted in this approach. Many, if not all, segmentation models appear
to reveal this realist ontological assumption.
‘I think there are definitely groups, without doubt. I think that there
are these groups and I think that they’ll pretty much be set. It would
be a complete nightmare really if the segments did keep changing. If
that was the case you would never be in the position of proper information
. . . should we act on it or not because it may be changing?’
(Marketing and Research Executive: Large UK Fashion Retailer)
To validate the segmentation argument in this vein would typically require
empirical testing. However, the fundamental problem here is crudely exposed
as Wensley (1995, s. 66) observes: ‘. . . neither assumption seems to stand
empirical testing except at the very gross level such as more affluent people
buy more expensive cars. We can neither assume consistent behaviour in
terms of response to marketing actions such as price or advertising or with
respect to previous behaviour except again in the sense that, in general, heavy
buyers in a particular category tend to remain heavy buyers.’
Furthermore, despite inevitable differences between individual views
on the nature of social reality, we also have to remember that managerial
decision-making remains very much a human process characterized by intuitive
and tacit ways of behaving (Curran and Goodfellow, 1990). It is further
suggested that, because implementing a segmentation approach involves a
number of managerial assumptions and arbitrary decisions, market segmentation
is essentially nothing more than an arbitrary process (Hoek et al., 1996).
Yet, even if it were possible to consistently aggregate customer groups through
time, Wright and Esslemont (1994) argue that many unintended individuals
are likely to be exposed to any tactical marketing messages aimed towards the
target segment. As the results of this exposure are unknown, they conclude
that there is no reason to expect that a targeted approach will provide better
results than a mass marketing effort.
Making sense of the segmentation paradox
It is apparent that there is a need to make sense of the segmentation concept
given the problems outlined. However, accepting the highly complex nature
of contemporary consumer societies and the managerial difficulties involved
in the implementation of a segmentation strategy, we would not suggest that