Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues, Second edition - Pr School

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The process of trend development leading to a fashion season 177 forecasters have emerged offering their own specialist combination of products and services. Some of the better known trend forecasters currently include: Promostyl WGSN Fashion scout Sacha Pacha Peclers Trend Union. Promostyl is a global trend forecasting business with a client base that extends beyond fashion clothing brands. It offers both a customized consulting service to clients as well as a range of trend books for each season. Their trend books provide detailed forecasts about colour fabric and styling for various market sectors, including women’s wear, men’s wear and children’s wear. The books also provide a quick and effective global overview of major evolving trends. Tapping into the changing external environment Social and cultural changes are major determinants of emerging fashions. However, they are themselves affected by other drivers of change that include globalization of world markets and the accessibility of more sophisticated communications technologies. The latter has provided people with fast and flexible access to more ideas and influences from other cultures and societies, driving demand for wider choice in fashion products. The days of a few large retailers producing predictable looks for predictable seasons SS and Autumn/ Winter are long gone. Figure 9.1 identifies some of the major drivers of change influencing fashion trends today. The model provides an indication of the diverse range of factors impacting on fashion design, rather than representing a complete list of all possible factors. Although ‘globalization’ has impacted on the fashion industry in many ways, including sourcing and the spread of international fashion brands, some fashion brands have suffered through not taking into account the differences in demand of local/micro markets. C&A, Etam, Kookai and more recently Morgan have all failed in the UK fashion market after struggling to sell ranges that did not take account of consumers’ changing fashion tastes. Similarly, Next, French Connection and Marks and Spencer have all failed in the USA. Fashion styling, ranging, sizing and image can vary significantly across national and cultural boundaries. A mistrust of politics and government linked to globalization has also stimulated the growth of many smaller communities. Some are obviously linked to anti-globalization whereas others are more focussed on rejuvenating local customs, dialects, trade and lifestyles. Collaborative fashion branding, where a brand is associated with a leading fashion designer, can deliver reciprocal market positioning and differentiation benefits to both. More recent examples of this include Hennes and
178 Fashion Marketing Globalization (local focus) Social and environmental responsibility Security and Well being Individualism and customization Democratization of fashion and luxury Celebrity and style icons Value and fast fashion New media and technologies Figure 9.1 Some drivers of fashion change. Source: adapted from Jackson and Shaw (2001). Mauritz‘s collaborations with Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney. Similarly Adidas collaborated with Yohji Yamamoto to produce its Y3 product. Further fashion collaborations can be expected as a means of driving fresh products and interest in brands. Promostyl refers to the ‘democratization of fashion’ to explain the growth of previously ultra-exclusive brands like Gucci into mass market adoption. Phrases such as ‘mass to class’, ‘masstige’ and ‘massification of luxury’ all reflect this growing trend. Burberry has used a similar term, ‘accessible luxury’, to explain its growth strategy and broader customer base. The term Prada and Primark is used by some UK fashion brands to profile a segment of consumer who mix brands from different market levels to achieve an individual and affordable look that includes an element of luxury. Value fashion and ‘fast fashion’ have emerged from the more democratic fashion market as consumers purchase products from retailer brands such as Primark and supermarket brands including ‘George’ (Asda/Walmart) and Tesco’s ‘Florence and Fred’ range. In 2005 Asda and Tesco achieved huge publicity in the UK over the low price of the denim jeans they were selling for £3 and £4 a pair. Although fast fashion is not necessarily always cheap the speed of change does ensure a high stock-turn for brands. Zara, Hennes and Mauritz (H&M) and TopShop are three of the better known European fast fashion brands. In 2005 Robert Polet, President and CEO of the Gucci Group, recognized the importance of this type of fashion when he stated that consumers of luxury products are being ‘educated’ by fast fashion retailers who offer new products every 6 weeks creating a fast shopping rhythm (Polet, 2005).
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Fashion Marketing
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Fashion Marketing Contemporary Issu
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Contents Foreword List of Contribut
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Contents vii Why do fashion retaile
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Contents ix 14 The international fl
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Foreword Fashion is driven by creat
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List of contributors Emma Banister
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List of Contributors xv identity. H
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List of Contributors xvii M. C. Lam
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Acknowledgements Tony would like to
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Introduction In this introduction t
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Introduction xxiii supermarket fash
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1 Globalization: global markets and
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Globalization: global markets and g
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2 Supply chain strategies, structur
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Supply chain strategies, structures
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Challenges of fashion buying and me
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4 Segmenting fashion consumers: rec
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Segmenting fashion consumers 75 req
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Segmenting fashion consumers 77 seg
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Segmenting fashion consumers 79 (19
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Segmenting fashion consumers 81 (20
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Segmenting fashion consumers 83 if
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Segmenting fashion consumers 85 of
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Segmenting fashion consumers 87 Gub
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5 Developing a research agenda for
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Developing a research agenda for th
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6 Retail brand marketing in the fas
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Retail brand marketing in the fashi
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Page 152 and 153: Retail brand marketing in the fashi
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Page 156 and 157: Competitive marketing strategies of
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Page 220 and 221: Marketing plan Phase 1: Line planni
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Consumers and their negative selves
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Consumers and their negative selves
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Fashion retailer desired and percei
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Schmidt (1995) Corporate Identity M
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13 Fashion e-tailing Ruth Marciniak
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Fashion e-tailing 261 retailers are
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Fashion e-tailing 263 Then and Delo
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Fashion e-tailing 265 STAGE ONE Dev
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Fashion e-tailing 267 and Vijaysara
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Fashion e-tailing 269 Table 13.2 Be
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Table 13.3 Empirical work on fashio
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Lu and Rucker Identification of pre
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Fashion e-tailing 275 Hall, J. (199
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14 The international flagship store
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The international flagship stores o
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15 The making and marketing of a tr
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The making and marketing of a trend
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Approaches to doing research 309 Cr
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Approaches to doing research 311 In
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Approaches to doing research 313 ch
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Index Accessible luxury, 178 Adidas
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Index 317 Couture shows, 183 Creati
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Index 319 free trade, 9-10 impact,
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Index 321 Micro-marketing, 198 Midd
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Index 323 design factor, 156-7 soci
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