Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues, Second edition - Pr School

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Globalization: global markets and global supplies 9 Ten countries most restricted by textile and clothing quotas, 2004 (quota impact indicat Clothing 1.2 1 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0 China Korea, Rep. Hong Kong, China Bangladesh Vietnam Indonesia Macau, China India Pakistan Philippines Figure 1.1 Impact of textile and clothing quotas. Source: ILO (2005). Figure 1.1 shows exporting countries that were most affected by import quotas established by the USA, the EU and Canada. A quota impact indicator has been designed to measure the extent to which a country has actually used the quota to its limit and how many quotas have been applied to each country. China is most affected by quotas. In clothing, the Republic of Korea’s exports were also significantly constrained by import quotas, followed by other main exporters from Hong Kong, China and countries in South Asia and South- East Asia. Other exporters affected by order of importance were Thailand (11th place), Malaysia (12th place), Taiwan China (13th place), Sri Lanka (16th place), Turkey (18th place) and Cambodia (20th place). Despite restrictions under quota clothing exports grew at an average rate of 5.9 per cent between 1997 and 2004. The textiles industry recorded an average growth rate of 3 per cent in the same period. Developing countries now account for half of world textile exports and almost three-quarters of world clothing exports. Free trade vis-à-vis fair trade Contemporary notions of free trade are anchored in Adam Smith’s discussions within ‘An Inquiry Into The Nature And Causes Of The Wealth of Nations’ 1776. At this juncture some readers may wonder why I am discussing a text written over 330 years ago to discuss contemporary global fashion markets but as will be revealed in this discussion it is these discourses that greatly influence the way we think about notions of free trade. Free trade is a powerful concept, highly politicized and of great influence in contemporary society for the ways in which we structure markets and its impacts on the ways in which buyers and sellers in those markets act. Producers of textiles and clothing merchandise, retailers, consumers and governments are engaged in interactions
10 Fashion Marketing subject to the laws of economic behaviours observed and reported by Smith (Sutherland, 1993). Thus the patterns of thought and behaviours constitute a link between structures, social practices and social action, it is the ‘habitus’ concept that Bourdieu referred to (Jenkins, 2002). Free trade is essentially a system of trading without recourse to tariffs, quotas and export subsidies. Prior to the introduction of free trade in Britain in the 18th century a system referred to as ‘mercantilism’ had been adopted to afford certain goods protection from an open trading system which may have been damaging to the particular trade. Mercantilists were often merchants with a vested interest in promoting their own well-being but the overriding argument was simple their aim being to ensure that exports exceeded imports and hence the balance of trade was favourable. Maintaining the trade balance would require government intervention through a system of tariffs and quotas. The purpose was to ensure economic growth through such protection (Barber, 1967). Modern discourse revolves around free trade but the practices remain mercantilist. For example, the WTO is responsible for managing the international trading system and as such is charged with ensuring that trade barriers are removed in an orderly way. The purpose of such a managed system is to protect the interests of all parties who are members. However, there are numerous disputes about quotas, tarrifs and other protections between members states. WTO rules in practice: an illustrative case The following example is taken from my own research. One episode is reported here to illustrate how even the most rigid rules can be made flexible. It emerged in an interview with Mr. Dian Gomes, the CEO of Slimline; a key Sri Lanka clothing manufacturer employing 3,200 workers in 2002. Slimline is located in Pannala, a 2-hour journey from Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo. The Gan Island group which is referred to in the episode is a former Royal Air Force (RAF) site, situated at the southerly tip of the Maldives archipelago approximately 700 miles from Pannala. At the time of this research the MFA imposed particular rules and regulations with regard to export quantities on the Sri Lanka clothing industry. The MFA quota system established in 1974 by GATT and later superseded by the WTO was designed to support a number of developing export countries by guaranteeing an export market despite severe competition from more efficient producers who were controlled through quota. Sri Lanka was allocated quotas by categories of clothing allowing it to export into the developed world markets. This allocation had a significant impact on the development of the industry, growing from a zero base in 1979 to almost 50 per cent of national industrial production in 2001 (Central Bank of Sri Lanka, 2001). However, the labour intensive apparel sector faced heightened competition in particular from countries that underbid Sri Lanka’s already low hourly labour costs of US $0.41 such as Bangladesh (US $0.31), China (US $0.28) and Pakistan (US $0.26) (SLAEA, June 2002). The MFA was in place throughout this research and was abandoned in January 2005
Page 2 and 3: Fashion Marketing
Page 4 and 5: Fashion Marketing Contemporary Issu
Page 6 and 7: Contents Foreword List of Contribut
Page 8 and 9: Contents vii Why do fashion retaile
Page 10 and 11: Contents ix 14 The international fl
Page 12 and 13: Foreword Fashion is driven by creat
Page 14 and 15: List of contributors Emma Banister
Page 16 and 17: List of Contributors xv identity. H
Page 18 and 19: List of Contributors xvii M. C. Lam
Page 20 and 21: Acknowledgements Tony would like to
Page 22 and 23: Introduction In this introduction t
Page 24 and 25: Introduction xxiii supermarket fash
Page 26 and 27: 1 Globalization: global markets and
Page 28 and 29: Globalization: global markets and g
Page 52 and 53: 2 Supply chain strategies, structur
Page 54 and 55: Supply chain strategies, structures
Page 80 and 81: Challenges of fashion buying and me
Page 82 and 83: Challenges of fashion buying and me
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Challenges of fashion buying and me
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4 Segmenting fashion consumers: rec
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Segmenting fashion consumers 75 req
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Segmenting fashion consumers 77 seg
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Segmenting fashion consumers 79 (19
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Segmenting fashion consumers 81 (20
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Segmenting fashion consumers 83 if
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Segmenting fashion consumers 85 of
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Segmenting fashion consumers 87 Gub
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5 Developing a research agenda for
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Developing a research agenda for th
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6 Retail brand marketing in the fas
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Retail brand marketing in the fashi
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Competitive marketing strategies of
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8 Store environment of fashion reta
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Store environment of fashion retail
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The process of trend development le
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Innovation management in creating n
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Marketing plan Phase 1: Line planni
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11 Consumers and their negative sel
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Consumers and their negative selves
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Fashion retailer desired and percei
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Schmidt (1995) Corporate Identity M
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13 Fashion e-tailing Ruth Marciniak
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Fashion e-tailing 261 retailers are
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Fashion e-tailing 263 Then and Delo
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Fashion e-tailing 265 STAGE ONE Dev
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Fashion e-tailing 267 and Vijaysara
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Fashion e-tailing 269 Table 13.2 Be
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Table 13.3 Empirical work on fashio
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Lu and Rucker Identification of pre
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Fashion e-tailing 275 Hall, J. (199
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14 The international flagship store
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The international flagship stores o
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15 The making and marketing of a tr
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The making and marketing of a trend
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Approaches to doing research 309 Cr
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Approaches to doing research 311 In
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Approaches to doing research 313 ch
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Index Accessible luxury, 178 Adidas
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Index 317 Couture shows, 183 Creati
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Index 319 free trade, 9-10 impact,
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Index 321 Micro-marketing, 198 Midd
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Index 323 design factor, 156-7 soci
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