Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues, Second edition - Pr School

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Competitive marketing strategies of luxury fashion companies 143 and Lacroix’s findings about the consumer’s expectations of a luxury web site (Table 7.6). However, for a common e-commerce site, such as luxury. com, it appears difficult to achieve this and also that is specific to each brand represented on this and other similar sites. Table 7.6 Features expected in a luxury web site Feature % Aesthetics 60 Communication via e-mail 47 Information on products 44 Easy to navigate 40 Information on brands (PR events) 36 Personalized advice (club, newsletters) 33 Secure connection 32 Community (boards, chat) 31 Clear postage and package charges 28 Real time communication 27 Worldwide 27 Purchase possibility 26 Source: Dall’Olmo, and Lacroix, (2003). These figures show that the web site for the luxury companies is perceived more as a communication tool, than as a transaction channel. The Internet has become an essential part of the communication strategies of luxury fashion brands and through this channel, it is possible to convey the history and brand heritage and to present products with an appropriate aesthetics. However, whilst information is obtained about the luxury fashion brand from the Internet, consumers still like to enjoy the pampered experience available in a physical store and the opportunity to display their ability to purchase a luxury item. Case histories Company A: international fashion retailer This international Italian company has invested substantially in recent international growth (Moore and Doyle, 2004). The Group is solely owned by the designer, which has provided some latitude in its approach to strategic marketing and implementation. This may not be the case for luxury fashion groups that are subject to shareholders’ demands. Fundamental to the marketing strategy has been a focus on key strategic priorities (Giorgio Armani Group, 2003): 1 growth of manufacturing capacity, 2 diversification of the portfolio (including into hotels and leisure), 3 expansion and enhancement of retail store network.
144 Fashion Marketing It is worth pointing out that a fourth dimension is that of design. The creative direction, branding, communications and retailing of the brand is controlled by the owner–designer. Counter to the conventional outsourcing of manufacture, the group has set up a vertically integrated business where the Group ‘increasingly takes direct control over all aspects of design, manufacturing, distribution and retail’ (Giorgio Armani Group, 2003). The Group has acquired manufacturers, such as Deanna Spa, a specialist of high-quality knitwear, and also four footwear factories in 2002. The Group has manufacturing capability across all of its core product areas. This strategy is to ensure the consistency and ‘integrity of the brand around the world’ and to ensure design protection and exclusivity. All of the capability is based in Italy, so as to guarantee the value created by country of origin, as discussed earlier. For other items than apparel, such as perfume and eyeware, licence agreements are made. The Group’s brands cover the three main segments of exclusivity to medium to lower end, as outlined by Alleres (2003). The brands and their market positioning are shown in Table 7.7. Table 7.7 The Brands and their market positioning Brand name Giorgio Armani Armani Collezioni Emporio Armani AJ/Armani Jeans A/X Armani Exchange Armani Casa Positioning The main line – couture equivalent Diffusion line of fine-tailoring, sportswear, outerwear and accessories for professionals Young and modern diffusion line for younger customers Youth line – with a focus on technology and ecology Entry level brand – fast fashion for denim and urban fashion Furniture and home accessories ranges Source: Moore and Wigley (2004). What is interesting about the brand mix and marketing positioning is the Group’s coverage of key customer segments and the management of these to make them apparently exclusive, even though each of these appeal to different groups of customers. Distribution is divided into wholesale, which represents approximately 50 per cent of the Group’s turnover. This approach enables overseas market pene tration through recruiting stockists internationally. These stockists are subject to stringent vetting procedures. The Group directly owns a significant minority of retail outlets in its key markets of Italy, Japan and the US. Premier sites, such as Armani Collezioni in Paris and Frankfurt are directly controlled to ensure a premium positioning and all aspects of experiential marketing to build up a relationship with customers.
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Fashion Marketing
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Fashion Marketing Contemporary Issu
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Contents Foreword List of Contribut
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Contents vii Why do fashion retaile
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Contents ix 14 The international fl
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Foreword Fashion is driven by creat
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List of contributors Emma Banister
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List of Contributors xv identity. H
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List of Contributors xvii M. C. Lam
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Acknowledgements Tony would like to
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Introduction In this introduction t
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Introduction xxiii supermarket fash
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1 Globalization: global markets and
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Globalization: global markets and g
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2 Supply chain strategies, structur
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Supply chain strategies, structures
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Challenges of fashion buying and me
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4 Segmenting fashion consumers: rec
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Segmenting fashion consumers 75 req
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Segmenting fashion consumers 77 seg
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Segmenting fashion consumers 79 (19
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Segmenting fashion consumers 81 (20
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Segmenting fashion consumers 83 if
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Segmenting fashion consumers 85 of
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Segmenting fashion consumers 87 Gub
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5 Developing a research agenda for
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Developing a research agenda for th
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Innovation management in creating n
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Marketing plan Phase 1: Line planni
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11 Consumers and their negative sel
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Consumers and their negative selves
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Fashion retailer desired and percei
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Schmidt (1995) Corporate Identity M
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13 Fashion e-tailing Ruth Marciniak
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Fashion e-tailing 261 retailers are
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Fashion e-tailing 263 Then and Delo
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Fashion e-tailing 265 STAGE ONE Dev
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Fashion e-tailing 267 and Vijaysara
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Fashion e-tailing 269 Table 13.2 Be
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Table 13.3 Empirical work on fashio
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Lu and Rucker Identification of pre
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Fashion e-tailing 275 Hall, J. (199
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14 The international flagship store
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The international flagship stores o
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15 The making and marketing of a tr
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The making and marketing of a trend
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Approaches to doing research 309 Cr
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Approaches to doing research 311 In
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Approaches to doing research 313 ch
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Index Accessible luxury, 178 Adidas
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Index 317 Couture shows, 183 Creati
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Index 319 free trade, 9-10 impact,
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Index 321 Micro-marketing, 198 Midd
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Index 323 design factor, 156-7 soci
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