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Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues, Second edition - Pr School

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112 <strong>Fashion</strong> <strong>Marketing</strong><br />

Managing Director of New Look, said, ‘A customer is as likely to buy a CD<br />

as one of our blouses. To be honest I’ve given up trying to fathom out why<br />

people buy what they do.’ (Aldred, 1998).<br />

Levels of education are higher than ever before. Perhaps more important,<br />

there is the cumulative experience of two generations’ exposure to marketing<br />

media, press, radio and TV. Shoppers have ‘wised-up’ to the various<br />

marketing strategies and programmes on offer. The media themselves<br />

delight in exposing any form of consumer ‘exploitation’ (especially by retailers<br />

or travel companies). Customers are also more willing to try alternative<br />

new, often global, providers if they feel they can get a better deal. Hence the<br />

growth of businesses like Easy Jet, Amazon.com and the world’s most successful<br />

new retailer, E-bay.<br />

Shoppers are more confident than ever before in their capability to solve<br />

their own problems. They will write their own wills (on forms bought from<br />

W. H. Smith), treat their own ailments (with medicine bought from ASDA),<br />

select and book their holidays (from Expedia or Airline Network), plan an<br />

instant dinner party (courtesy of Marks & Spencer) and even select a new<br />

partner via the Internet. If there is something they cannot do then they go to<br />

an evening class or seek help on the ‘Net’. The Thatcher years engendered a<br />

culture of self-help in the UK which is unique, and which has endured well<br />

beyond her demise.<br />

For many people, incremental Time (and Energy) now has more value than<br />

incremental Money. Kurt Salmon Associates’ 1998 Consumer Confidence<br />

survey reported that, given the choice, 53 per cent of people would opt for<br />

more time over more money. Most people are striving to increase their personal<br />

time productivity in order to squeeze more activity and more experience<br />

into a finite (if longer) life expectancy. ‘I want it NOW’ has become<br />

the cry of today’s consumer. Kids cannot understand why supper takes<br />

two minutes in the microwave when the package says ‘instant’. In the food<br />

industry, <strong>Pr</strong>octor and Gamble have invented the 20:20 rule 20 minutes to<br />

shop for a meal and 20 minutes to prepare it. Leading retailers like Tesco<br />

(‘Metro’ and ‘Express’) and Sainsbury (‘Central’ and ‘Local’) grow market<br />

share and profits by giving customers back their time in exchange for higher<br />

prices and margins. Starbucks famously sell a ‘15 minute experience’, rather<br />

than coffee and buns.<br />

In the furnishings sector, IKEA has swept all before it by offering instant<br />

fashion for the home, while traditional furnishers like Queensway, Maples<br />

and Waring & Gillow (now no more) continued to take customers’ deposits<br />

and deliver a solution 6–8 weeks later. In fashion, much of the independent<br />

sector still expects orders to be placed 6 months in advance. ‘Fast<br />

<strong>Fashion</strong>’ companies like Zara, Hennes & Mauritz and Top Shop are aiming<br />

to cut lead times from design studio to store display to as little as 15 days,<br />

a model now being emulated by capsule collections from ASDA and Marks &<br />

Spencer.<br />

When time runs out, people shift something to another time, making use<br />

of time that would otherwise be dead. They video late night films, sports

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