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Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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142<br />

CHAPTER 3 . SYDNEY<br />

beach is accessible for visitors in wheelchairs via a series of ramps. <strong>To</strong> reach<br />

Clovelly, take bus no. 339 <strong>from</strong> Circular Quay.<br />

The cliff walk <strong>from</strong> Bondi will eventually bring you to Coogee, which has a<br />

pleasant strip of sand with a couple of hostels and hotels nearby. <strong>To</strong> reach Coogee,<br />

take bus no. 373 or 374 <strong>from</strong> Circular Quay (via Pitt, George, and Castlereagh<br />

sts., and Taylor Sq. on Oxford St.) or Bus no. 314 or 315 <strong>from</strong> Bondi Junction.<br />

NORTH OF SYDNEY HARBOUR<br />

On the north shore you’ll find Manly , a long curve of golden sand edged<br />

with Norfolk Island pines. Don’t be fooled by the two small beaches on either<br />

side of the ferry terminal as some people have been—including the famous novelist<br />

Arthur Conan Doyle, who traveled to Manly by ferry and presuming the<br />

small beach near the ferry station was the best the suburb had to offer did not<br />

bother to disembark. Follow the crowds shuffling through the pedestrianized<br />

“Corso” to the main ocean beach. You’ll find one of Sydney’s nicest walks here,<br />

too. Looking at the ocean, head to your right along the beachfront and follow<br />

the coastal path to the small and sheltered Shelly Beach , a nice area for snorkeling<br />

and swimming. (There’s also a small takeout outlet here selling drinks and<br />

snacks, next to the good, but pricey, Le Kiosk beachfront restaurant.) Follow the<br />

bitumen path up the hill to the parking lot. Here, a track cuts up into the bush<br />

and leads toward a firewall, which marks the entrance to Sydney Harbour<br />

National Park. Around here you’ll get some spectacular ocean views across to<br />

Manly and the northern beaches (the headland further in the distance is Palm<br />

Beach). The best way to reach Manly is on a ferry or JetCat <strong>from</strong> Circular Quay.<br />

Farther along the northern coast are a string of ocean beaches, including the<br />

surf spots of Curl Curl, Dee Why, Narrabeen, Mona Vale, Newport, Avalon,<br />

and finally Palm Beach , a long and beautiful strip of sand cut <strong>from</strong> the<br />

calmer waters of Pittwater by sand dunes and a golf course. Here you’ll also find<br />

the Barrenjoey Lighthouse, which also offers fine views along the coast (see the<br />

“Greater Sydney” map earlier in this chapter for a map of this area.) Bus nos.<br />

136 and 139 run <strong>from</strong> Manly to Curl Curl, while Bus no. 190 runs <strong>from</strong> Wynyard<br />

to Newport and then via the other northern beaches as far as Palm Beach.<br />

The best harbor beach is at Balmoral , a wealthy North Shore hangout<br />

complete with some good cafes (The Sandbar is the best for food). The beach<br />

itself is split into three parts. As you look toward the sea, the middle section is<br />

the most popular with sunbathers, while the wide expanse to your left and the<br />

sweep of surreally beautiful sand to your right have a mere scattering. There’s a<br />

Fun Fact Grin & Bare It<br />

If getting an all-over tan is your scene, you have a couple of options in<br />

Sydney. Head either to the nudist beach at Lady Jane Bay, a short walk<br />

<strong>from</strong> Camp Cove Beach (accessed <strong>from</strong> Cliff St. in Watsons Bay, reached by<br />

walking along the strip of sand—to the right as you look at the sea—at<br />

the back of the Watsons Bay Hotel). Or you can try Cobblers Beach,<br />

accessed via a short, but steep, bush track that leads <strong>from</strong> the far side of<br />

the playing field oval next to the main HMAS Penguin naval base at the<br />

end of Bradley’s Head Road in Mosman. (Follow the procession of men in<br />

shorts.) Be prepared for a largely male-orientated scene—as well as the<br />

odd boatload of beer-swigging peeping <strong>To</strong>ms.

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