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Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 147<br />

Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park (& 02/9457 9322 or 02/9457 9310) is a<br />

great place to take a bushwalk through gum trees and rainforest on the lookout<br />

for wildflowers, sandstone rock formations, and Aboriginal art. There are plenty<br />

of tracks through the park, but one of my favorites is the relatively easy Track 12,<br />

a 2.5km (1.5-mile) tramp to The Basin. The well-graded dirt path takes you<br />

down to a popular estuary with a beach and passes some significant Aboriginal<br />

engravings. There are also some wonderful water views over Pittwater <strong>from</strong> the<br />

picnic areas at West Head. Pick up a free walking guide at the park entrance, or<br />

gather maps and information in Sydney at the National Parks & Wildlife Service’s<br />

center at Cadmans Cottage, 110 George St., The Rocks (& 02/9247 8861).<br />

The park is open <strong>from</strong> sunrise to sunset, and admission is A$10 (US$6.50) per<br />

car. You can either drive to the park or catch a ferry <strong>from</strong> Palm Beach to The<br />

Basin (<strong>from</strong> where you can walk up Track 12 and back). Ferries run on the hour<br />

(except at 1pm) <strong>from</strong> 9am to 5pm daily and cost A$4 (US$2.60) one-way; call<br />

& 02/9918 2747 for details. Shorelink bus no. 577 runs <strong>from</strong> the Turramurra<br />

CityRail station to the nearby park entrance every hour on weekdays and every 2<br />

hours on weekends; call & 02/9457 8888 for details. There is no train service to<br />

the park. Camping is allowed only at The Basin (& 02/9457 9853) and costs<br />

A$12 (US$7.80) for two people booked in advance.<br />

If you have a car, you could visit the Ku-ring-gai Wildflower Garden, 420<br />

Mona Vale Rd., St Ives (& 02/9440 8609), which is essentially a huge area of<br />

natural bushland and a center for urban bushland education. There are plenty<br />

of bushwalking tracks, self-guided walks, and a number of nature-based activities.<br />

It’s open daily <strong>from</strong> 8am to 4pm. Admission is A$2.50 (US$1.60) for<br />

adults, A$1 (US65¢) for children, and A$6 (US$3.90) for families.<br />

<strong>To</strong> the south of Sydney is the remarkable Royal National Park, Farrell<br />

Avenue, Sutherland (& 02/9542 0648). It’s the world’s oldest national park,<br />

having been gazetted as such in 1879. (The main competitor to the title is Yellowstone<br />

in the United States, which was set aside for conservation in 1872 but<br />

not designated as a national park until 1883.) Severe bushfires almost destroyed<br />

the whole lot in early 1994, but the trees and bush plants have recovered remarkably,<br />

despite other major fire outbreaks in 2001 and 2003. There’s no visitor<br />

center, but you can get park information at park entrances, where you’ll have to<br />

pay a A$10 (US$6.50) per car entry fee.<br />

There are several ways to access the park, but my favorites are the little-known<br />

access points <strong>from</strong> Bundeena and Otford. <strong>To</strong> get to Bundeena, take a CityRail<br />

train <strong>from</strong> Central Station to Cronulla. Just below the train station you’ll find<br />

Cronulla Wharf. From there, hop on the delightful ferry run by National Park<br />

Ferries (& 02/9523 2990) to Bundeena; ferries run hourly on the half-hour<br />

(except 12:30pm) and stop at around 7pm. After you get off the ferry, the first<br />

turn on your left just up the hill will take you to Bundeena Beach. It’s another<br />

5km (3 miles) or so to the wonderfully remote Little Marley Beach, via Marley<br />

Beach (which has dangerous surf). The ferry returns to Cronulla <strong>from</strong> Bundeena<br />

hourly on the hour (except 1pm). The fare is A$3.50 (US$2.30) each way.<br />

An alternative way to reach the park is to take the train <strong>from</strong> Central Station to<br />

Otford, then climb the hill up to the sea cliffs. If you’re driving, you might want<br />

to follow the scenic cliff-edge road down into Wollongong. The entrance to the<br />

national park is a little tricky to find, so you might have to ask directions—but<br />

roughly it’s just to the left of a cliff top popular for hang gliding, radio-controlled<br />

airplanes, and kites. A 2-hour walk <strong>from</strong> the sea cliffs through beautiful and varying<br />

bushland and a palm forest will take you to Burning Palms Beach. There is

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