Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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CHAPTER 9 . PERTH & WESTERN AUSTRALIA
of which hide pockets of rainforest, take half-day 4WD fishing safaris, cruise
tranquil Chamberlain Gorge, horseback ride across stony plains, photograph red
rocky ranges, join rangers on bird-watching or “bush-tucker” tours, or explore a
rich lode of Aboriginal rock paintings. It’s an unspoiled, primeval place.
El Questro is open from April 1 to early November (it closes in the Wet,
Nov–Mar). It is 100km (60 miles) west of Kununurra by road (58km/36 miles
on the sealed Great Northern Hwy. towards Wyndham, with the remainder on
the graded gravel Gibb River Rd.). Visitors must purchase a 7-day Wilderness
Park Permit to enter, which costs A$13 (US$8.45) per person; children under
12 enter free. Buy permits from El Questro’s office in Kununurra, on Banksia
Street, where the staff will give you a map and point out all there is to see and
do, or at the Station Township. The Township acts as a kind of headquarters—
most tours and activities depart here, and it’s where you can buy road and other
supplies and fuel, and rent 4WDs and camping gear. Consider renting a 4WD
in Kununurra or at the Station Township. Transfers from the Homestead and
Emma Gorge cost A$60 (US$39) per person to join tours and activities departing
the Station Township, so while it is not crucial to have your own 4WD, it is
less costly. Having your own vehicle also means you can explore independently.
The station runs 12-hour ranger-guided day trips from Kununurra which
include the highlights of a Chamberlain Gorge cruise to see Aboriginal Wandjina
rock art and soak in Zebedee Springs, plus a gorge walk, lunch at the Station Township
restaurant, and 4WD transfers, for A$145 (US$94) per person. Ask staff to
identify which swimming spots are croc-free, and don’t swim anywhere else!
You pay for most activities—between A$60 (US$39) for a 2-hour horseback
ride to A$565 (US$367) for a half-day’s saltwater heli-fishing. Other typical
prices are A$42 (US$27) for a gorge cruise, A$75 (US$49) for a 4-hour 4WD
trip to watch the sun set over the Cockburn Range, or A$175 (US$114) for a
half-day 4WD barramundi-fishing trip.
WHERE TO STAY
Apart from the prohibitively expensive upscale homestead, there are other
accommodations options at the station, as described below.
4WD transfers for guests at El Questro coming from Kununurra cost A$144
(US$94) per adult round-trip to Emma Gorge only, or A$180 (US$117) to the
Station Township. Children under 12 pay half price. If you are driving yourself,
take the Great Northern Highway 58km (36 miles) from Kununurra toward
Wyndham, then the (unsealed) Gibb River Road 25km (15 1 ⁄2 miles) to Emma
Gorge Resort (which is 2km/1 1 ⁄4 miles along an access road), or a further 27km
(17 miles) to the station store.
Emma Gorge Resort This neatly kept oasis of cute permanent tents
mounted on lush lawns under pandanus palms at the foot of the soaring red
Cockburn Range is a great way to “camp” in the wilderness without sacrificing
comfort. Although they are tents, accommodations are comfortable, with
wooden floors, electric lights, fans, insect screens, nice firm beds with quilts, and
torches (flashlights) for getting around at night. Those without bathrooms share
clean and modern facilities. Reception stocks stuff like sunscreen and souvenirs,
and lends hair dryers. The rustic restaurant serves up gourmet bush-tucker meals
that would put many big-city restaurants to shame, and has a retractable roof for
stargazing. Free to guests is access to a 1.5km (1 mile) trail along lush Emma
Gorge to the natural swimming hole and trickling waterfall enclosed by 46m
(150-ft.) cliffs. The Station Township is 27km (17 miles) away.