Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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CHAPTER 8 . THE TOP END
A$135 (US$88) for adults, A$115 (US$75) for kids 4 to 14 (no kids under 4
allowed). Book in advance for July, the busiest month. At press time, Twin Falls
was closed indefinitely because of the suspected presence of a large saltwater
crocodile, so treat these areas with extreme caution.
Remember the idyllic pool that Paul Hogan and Linda Koslowski plunged into
in the movie Crocodile Dundee? That was Gunlom Falls, about 170km (106 miles)
south of the Bowali Visitor Centre. A climb to the top of the falls rewards you with
great views of southern Kakadu. Access is by 4WD and can be cut off in the Wet.
Kakadu’s wetlands are brimful of barramundi, and there is nothing Territorians
(inhabitants of the Northern Territories) like more than to hop in a tin
dinghy barely big enough to resist a croc attack and go looking for them.
Kakadu Fishing Tours (book through Gagudju Lodge Cooinda; & 08/8979
0145) takes you fishing in a 5m (16 1 ⁄2-ft.) sportfishing boat. Tours depart from
Jabiru, 5km (3 miles) east of the Bowali Visitor Centre, and cost A$120
(US$78) per person for a half day (A$190/US$124 if there is only one of you)
and A$240 (US$156) per person for a full day. They will pick you up from your
Kakadu accommodation.
Wide-ranging bush and wetlands trails lead throughout the park, including
many short strolls and six half- to full-day treks. Typical trails include a 600m
(less than .5-mile) amble through the Manngarre Monsoon Forest near Ubirr
Rock; an easy 3.8-kilometer (2-mile) circular walk at the Iligadjar Wetlands near
the Bowali Visitor Centre; or a tough 12km (7.5-mile) trek through rugged
sandstone country at Nourlangie Rock.
One of the best wetlands walks is at Mamukala wetlands, 29km (18 miles)
from Jabiru. Countless thousands of magpie geese feed here, especially in the late
Dry Season around October. An observation platform gives you a good view of
them, and a sign explains the dramatic seasonal changes the wetlands undergo.
Choose from a 1km (.5-mile) or 3km (2-mile) meander. The Bowali Visitor Centre
sells hiking trail maps. There are also some challenging unmarked trails along
creeks and gorges, for which you will need good navigational skills.
CAMPING
There are 16 national park campgrounds, all mostly near popular billabongs and
wetlands, plus three commercial campgrounds attached to accommodation
houses. Five of the national park campgrounds—at Gunlom, Mardugal Billabong,
Muirella Park near Nourlangie Rock, and Merl in the northeast—have
hot showers and toilets; a ranger visits these campgrounds daily to collect a nightly
fee of A$5.40 (US$3.50) per person, free for kids under 16. The rest are free
“bush camps” with no showers and only basic toilets, or none. Inquire at the park
entry stations or at the Bowali Visitor Centre for a map marking them. To camp
at undesignated campgrounds you will need a permit from the Bowali Visitor
Tips Croc Alert!
Though folk do swim at Jim Jim, Twin Falls, and other water holes, such as
Gubara, Maguk, and Koolpin Gorge, do so at your own risk. Saltwater
crocodiles have been known to slip through the traps rangers set alongside
popular swimming holes. Warning: Never swim without checking
with a ranger that the water hole is croc-free; if you are unsure, the only
place rangers recommend you swim is the hotel pool.